Brake fluid exchange procedure

[strohw]

So does anyone know the cap needed for a Motiv bleeder? I have Motiv at home I usually use for brake bleeding.

1108 if you want plastic, 1118 if you want metal. It comes with 2 different sizes rubber seals for the cap and our cars use the smaller one

 

[Mbar]

My dear mechanic and good friend just did a fluid bleed using a service tool / diagnostic mode. He did not go with disconnecting the battery and doing old fashioned 2 men job like last time.
My 4BW dash is a Xmas tree with all possible error codes and the car is on limp mode . I'm so screwed... 1 week to VIR and I have a feeling it's not happening

 

[Sully]

My dear mechanic and good friend just did a fluid bleed using a service tool / diagnostic mode. He did not go with disconnecting the battery and doing old fashioned 2 men job like last time.
My 4BW dash is a Xmas tree with all possible error codes and the car is on limp mode . I'm so screwed... 1 week to VIR and I have a feeling it's not happening

That's interesting, I recently had a similar experience. My 21' Suburban was squealing from the front left caliper when backing up. I decided to check out the rotor/pads which require compressing the pistons to release the pad to remove and inspect. I also didn't disconnect the battery. Long story short, I put everything back together, started truck up for a test drive and lots of errors to include Service Brake System, ESC, System Brake Failure and it limited my speed to I think 43mph..

Naturally, I thought I F'd up my system somehow though I changed hundreds of pads/rotors before without an issue. I ran my scan tool, confirmed the errors, checked sensors, and decided to clear them with the thought that perhaps the system sensed the changed in pressure on the line during the compression of the caliper piston and couldn't account for that change thus threw the errors. Additionally, if the system was really f'd it would throw the codes again.

Either way, cleared the codes, restarted, test drive and all has been fine since. I think the error I made was NOT disconnecting the battery before messing with the brake system.

....just may be similar to your situation.

 

[Kanetch]

My dear mechanic and good friend just did a fluid bleed using a service tool / diagnostic mode. He did not go with disconnecting the battery and doing old fashioned 2 men job like last time.
My 4BW dash is a Xmas tree with all possible error codes and the car is on limp mode . I'm so screwed... 1 week to VIR and I have a feeling it's not happening

The first time I tried to bleed mine, I didn’t disconnect the battery and ended up in your situation. @rdollie gave me this advice.

Start the car, hold the brake pedal all the way down for about 20-30 seconds and I suspect it will reset and work well - do a test drive (and the check engine icon will go away a few driving sessions later.

It worked for me.

 

[MatthewAMEL]

My dear mechanic and good friend just did a fluid bleed using a service tool / diagnostic mode. He did not go with disconnecting the battery and doing old fashioned 2 men job like last time.
My 4BW dash is a Xmas tree with all possible error codes and the car is on limp mode . I'm so screwed... 1 week to VIR and I have a feeling it's not happening

Lights that are set as a result of a transient condition will reset after three on/off cycles. The code is still stored, but the light will go off.

Battery disconnect is a must since these cars 'pre-initalize' when the key fob is in close proximity.

 

[nimneyes]

Hey guys, I'm a bit late to the party here. Was anyone ever able to use the motive bleeder to flush their brakes? I was never able to get a seal on the master cylinder with either 1118 or the 1108. Are there any other power bleeders that someone can verify that actually works? Is it really safe, or at all doable, to do the 2-person traditional method with these cars?

 

[Melon]

Hey guys, I'm a bit late to the party here. Was anyone ever able to use the motive bleeder to flush their brakes? I was never able to get a seal on the master cylinder with either 1118 or the 1108. Are there any other power bleeders that someone can verify that actually works? Is it really safe, or at all doable, to do the 2-person traditional method with these cars?

I used a Motive on my CT4 BW with no issues.
I don't fill the tank with fluid, just use it to pressurize the master reservoir and I keep an eye on the fluid in the reservoir closely. Remove the cap, fill it back up, pressurize and move on.

 

[nimneyes]

I used a Motive on my CT4 BW with no issues.
I don't fill the tank with fluid, just use it to pressurize the master reservoir and I keep an eye on the fluid in the reservoir closely. Remove the cap, fill it back up, pressurize and move on.

That's odd my motive doesn't hold anything more than 5 PSI of pressure at best. do you know which adaptor you're using? do you have to use a lot of force to tighten the adaptor?

 

[Melon]

That's odd my motive doesn't hold anything more than 5 PSI of pressure at best. do you know which adaptor you're using? do you have to use a lot of force to tighten the adaptor?

Mine gets up to 15, but 8-10 psi does the trick. I've had it for about 10 years now. Hasn't let me down yet!
Adapter: 1108
It's worked on my C5, 1LE, Canyon and the CT4. Pretty much universal GM.

 

[poor-sha]

Motive with this cap - Power Probe BA04 Brake Bleeder... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037668CI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

You’ll also need some fittings to replace what notice uses on the hose

 

[nordique14]

Reviving this thread as I will be bleeding my CCB next month before that start of track season and wanted to verify the procedure. I will be using a Motive bleeder. Here is my summary of what to do:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Clean the area around the brake fluid reservoir
3. Bleed left rear caliper using upper bleed valve. I am going to let an about a half bottle flow through to make sure I have clean fluid flowing through.
4. Bleed left front caliper
5. Bleed right front caliper
6. Bleed right rear caliper
7. Top off brake reservoir
8. Reconnect battery

The order of the bleeding is different than I would normally do so that is really what I want to confirm.

 

[spearfish25]

I pressure bleed my C8Z06 brake by wire all the time. Just disconnect the battery first. Then do the routine. Nothing to it. Plan to do the same for my CT5VBW.

I always do RR, LR, RF, LF on the C8Z. Furthest to closest to the brake fluid reservoir. I'd change the pattern based on where the BW reservoir is...haven't looked yet.

 

[jbawden]

I think bleeding for air in the system its more critical where you start. I can't imagine why it would matter where you start if you're just doing an exchange. I mityvac out as much old fluid from the MC reservoir as I can. I then start at the front driver as it's the shortest distance for old fluid to travel out of the MC for the front half of the system.

PSA for Motive users - the clear pressure hose will degrade over time and needs to be replaced periodically. Had one fail on me and it was a bit of a mess. I bought about 20' of bulk hose and changed everything including the dozen or metal adaptors (I maintain a lot of cars). I also changed all the fittings to the swivel type. 0412R Swivel Fitting

 

[mfcentex]

I think bleeding for air in the system its more critical where you start. I can't imagine why it would matter where you start if you're just doing an exchange. I mityvac out as much old fluid from the MC reservoir as I can. I then start at the front driver as it's the shortest distance for old fluid to travel out of the MC for the front half of the system.

PSA for Motive users - the clear pressure hose will degrade over time and needs to be replaced periodically. Had one fail on me and it was a bit of a mess. I bought about 20' of bulk hose and changed everything including the dozen or metal adaptors (I maintain a lot of cars). I also changed all the fittings to the swivel type. 0412R Swivel Fitting

How long did the hoses last? I've had mine for about 12 years. I need to purchase the adapter, but can't decide on metal or plastic. I used a plastic one on my previous car without issues.

 

[jbawden]

How long did the hoses last? I've had mine for about 12 years. I need to purchase the adapter, but can't decide on metal or plastic. I used a plastic one on my previous car without issues.

Quite a while...not sure how long but for how cheap hose is, it's worth changing every5 or so years I would think. When they go from clear to opaque is probably a good clue. I went all metal adapters. Brake fluid will ruin paint if its not washed off immediately, so extra caution is warranted.

 

[mfcentex]

Do you remember the diameter?

 

[jbawden]

I just bought it from the motive site since I was getting some other maintenance parts.

0409-2quart - Replacement tubing for 2 QT PowerBleeders - order by the foot

Original tubing for bleeder. To be used when replacing worn or old tubing. This tubing DOES NOT include clamps. - 2 clamps recommended for every section or multiple of 2ft. Order by the foot - if you want 3 ft enter 3 in quantity. After adding the hose to the cart when checking out make sure...

www.motiveproducts.com

 

[SIR ICE]

Reviving this thread as I will be bleeding my CCB next month before that start of track season and wanted to verify the procedure. I will be using a Motive bleeder. Here is my summary of what to do:
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Clean the area around the brake fluid reservoir
3. Bleed left rear caliper using upper bleed valve. I am going to let an about a half bottle flow through to make sure I have clean fluid flowing through.
4. Bleed left front caliper
5. Bleed right front caliper
6. Bleed right rear caliper
7. Top off brake reservoir
8. Reconnect battery

The order of the bleeding is different than I would normally do so that is really what I want to confirm.

I speed up the process by remove 75% of the fluid in the master cylinder using a simple turkey baster. Why pump all that old fluid through the system?