Black or orange?

[BimmerFan]

So I had breakfast with a buddy of mine who is also a car guy. but instead of buying a car once every 3 weeks like I do, he keeps them for 10+ years. He's much smarter than me, and was able to retire at 59 whereas I'm still working to support my habit.

I told him the story of my search for the CT5V-BW and the car I eventually found (stripper 6-speed) and of the orange car that was on BaT and went RNM that I can now buy for $106. The stripper (purchased but not here yet) was MSRP $95,580 I believe, including gas guzzler tax. My argument was, the orange car had CCB and other options that I don't really need, so should I pay another $11K just for the color? He said yes. Of course, it's not his money, and he'd never buy such an expensive car. The most he ever spent was $25K on a used M3. Again, he's smarter than me.

Now natch CCB is cool and would help in resale down the road, but I don't "need" them and I'd never add it to the build if I were to order a car. And of course, I know that orange is NLA and I am sure the future resale would be better than black. However, the orange car is used (only 600 miles, but still...) and as an occasionally aggressive driver, I would prefer to blend into the scenery a bit more and not be memorable to some tool that I cut off driving to work last week. Those are my arguments and rationalization.

The black car is awaiting shipment, and I was thinking about "what if" if I sold my M4 before it got here, and something horrible happened to the BW and I was left with no car. I decided that I would buy the orange car. LOL

So, I'm curious, how much extra, if any, would you guys pay, all things being equal, for an orange car versus whatever color you ended up with?

Yes, I have too much free time.

 

[BadCadiWI23]

I voted, and yes a bird in hand is worth two in the bush, but I think the BW the way you/I wanted it is worth the wait. That being said, I am buying a 4 BW to replace my ‘16 V3 while I wait for my opportunity to order the 5 BW I want

 

[TexasHawkeye]

So I had breakfast with a buddy of mine who is also a car guy. but instead of buying a car once every 3 weeks like I do, he keeps them for 10+ years. He's much smarter than me, and was able to retire at 59 whereas I'm still working to support my habit.

I told him the story of my search for the CT5V-BW and the car I eventually found (stripper 6-speed) and of the orange car that was on BaT and went RNM that I can now buy for $106. The stripper (purchased but not here yet) was MSRP $95,580 I believe, including gas guzzler tax. My argument was, the orange car had CCB and other options that I don't really need, so should I pay another $11K just for the color? He said yes. Of course, it's not his money, and he'd never buy such an expensive car. The most he ever spent was $25K on a used M3. Again, he's smarter than me.

Now natch CCB is cool and would help in resale down the road, but I don't "need" them and I'd never add it to the build if I were to order a car. And of course, I know that orange is NLA and I am sure the future resale would be better than black. However, the orange car is used (only 600 miles, but still...) and as an occasionally aggressive driver, I would prefer to blend into the scenery a bit more and not be memorable to some tool that I cut off driving to work last week. Those are my arguments and rationalization.

The black car is awaiting shipment, and I was thinking about "what if" if I sold my M4 before it got here, and something horrible happened to the BW and I was left with no car. I decided that I would buy the orange car. LOL

So, I'm curious, how much extra, if any, would you guys pay, all things being equal, for an orange car versus whatever color you ended up with?

Yes, I have too much free time.

Not a direct answer to your question, but some advice. If you decide on the black, make sure you inspect every panel with a high powered light prior to inking the deal. My 4BW in Black Raven has swirled paint, especially on the trunk, and I didn't notice it until I cleaned it myself and got it under some better lighting. Needless to say, I'm not too happy about the prospect of a lengthy paint correction (or an expensive one if I outsource it).

Either way, you can't lose with your choice of car.

 

[BimmerFan]

Not a direct answer to your question, but some advice. If you decide on the black, make sure you inspect every panel with a high powered light prior to inking the deal. My 4BW in Black Raven has swirled paint, especially on the trunk, and I didn't notice it until I cleaned it myself and got it under some better lighting. Needless to say, I'm not too happy about the prospect of a lengthy paint correction (or an expensive one if I outsource it).

Either way, you can't lose with your choice of car.

Oy, I've already paid for it!

It's out of state, and I'm having it shipped.

Although it makes me wonder: If you had found the damage before handing over the cash, would you have walked away from the deal? Because most dealers would simply offer to have their "detail guy" polish it, and he's probably the guy that did the damage in the first place!

 

[Barstoolman1127]

 

[Barstoolman1127]

 

[TexasHawkeye]

Oy, I've already paid for it!

It's out of state, and I'm having it shipped.

Although it makes me wonder: If you had found the damage before handing over the cash, would you have walked away from the deal? Because most dealers would simply offer to have their "detail guy" polish it, and he's probably the guy that did the damage in the first place!

That's a good question. The answer is a resounding "I'm not sure". I definitely would have had them fix the trunk, because there is a 2" superficial scratch on it. The rest of it I can probably do with my dual-action and some polish at home. It's just going to take me several hours. Honestly, your point about their "detail guy" concerns me the most. Will I have any clearcoat left after he gets done with it?

 

[rubberduck]

I love the orange color on other people's cars, but orange is not my thing. I'm a big follower of the gray man mentality. Now, if it was a track mostly car that is a completely different story and I would go with a big splash color. Having had a black S4 for 8 years, that was a never again condition for me.

 

[BimmerFan]

That's a good question. The answer is a resounding "I'm not sure". I definitely would have had them fix the trunk, because there is a 2" superficial scratch on it. The rest of it I can probably do with my dual-action and some polish at home. It's just going to take me several hours. Honestly, your point about their "detail guy" concerns me the most. Will I have any clearcoat left after he gets done with it?

I remember many years ago, a friend of mine ordered a car, and he ended up changing his mind and didn't get it. I saw it later at the dealer, and commented to my salesman that it looked like it had a bunch of swirls (I mean, visible in sunlight from 50 ft. away) in the paint, and he said something to the effect of "the detail guy boogered it up pretty good".

I was that detail guy in high school. I didn't give a crap about those cars back then. The minimum wage guys who do 10 cars a day don't think your car is special. Some of them. I'm sure there are good ones out there.

When I order a car, I specifically tell the dealer to not prep it beyond removing the protective wrap and a wash. Sometimes they remember.

Since then, I've become pretty good at wet sanding and polishing. Of course, I'm also in the "no PPF" camp, and road rash, scratches, spots, those are just facts of life and patina of using a car. So I try not to obsess. It's difficult for me, Mr. OCD.

 

[rubberduck]

Since then, I've become pretty good at wet sanding and polishing. Of course, I'm also in the "no PPF" camp, and road rash, scratches, spots, those are just facts of life and patina of using a car. So I try not to obsess. It's difficult for me, Mr. OCD.

Are you a ceramic coating person? I would at least recommend doing the wheels and calipers since you don't have CCBs.

 

[BimmerFan]

Are you a ceramic coating person? I would at least recommend doing the wheels and calipers since you don't have CCBs.

No. It's a bunch of hype. I've done it on wheels (calipers, are you crazy!?!?!?) and don't see a difference in keeping off dust or dirt, and no easier to clean. Of course, keep in mind that that's been on BMWs, and the wheels tend to get covered in brake dust in the 5 minutes between washing the car and putting it in the garage.

On the wife's car's trunk lid, I did half with ceramic and half with good old-fashioned wax. There is no difference in shine and no difference in water beading/retention after 6 months. Sure, it's easier to apply ceramic, but I can wax a big car in just an hour or so, not counting prep. And prep is the same.

I know I'm going to tick-off some people with my "hype" comment, but when you read some of the marketing mumbo-jumbo out there, you learn that it's just snake oil. The reason that "ceramic coating" often looks so good, is because the "installers" spend 10 hours prepping the car, polishing, perhaps even wet sanding. Any car is going to look good after that, regardless of the top coat.

You could perhaps make an argument that it "lasts longer" but in my real-world testing, it does not.

You could also make the argument that professional ceramicers (my new word I just made up) get a better, superior product that what we retail enthusiasts cannot buy, but that's horse poopie as well. It's called marketing, folks. And for those guys who swear by their $9000 professionally installed ceramic, well... enjoy your Porsche.

Now, granted, I enjoy washing and waxing and prepping and cleaning my cars. It's a form of stress relief for me, and I enjoy the results. Many people do not. Many people don't have the space, time, inclination, talent or desire to do this, and they'd rather pay someone. That's fine. Just know what you're paying for.

OK, hold on, I'm going to step off my soapbox now. Can someone help me down please?

 

[rubberduck]

No. It's a bunch of hype. I've done it on wheels (calipers, are you crazy!?!?!?) and don't see a difference in keeping off dust or dirt, and no easier to clean. Of course, keep in mind that that's been on BMWs, and the wheels tend to get covered in brake dust in the 5 minutes between washing the car and putting it in the garage.

On the wife's car's trunk lid, I did half with ceramic and half with good old-fashioned wax. There is no difference in shine and no difference in water beading/retention after 6 months. Sure, it's easier to apply ceramic, but I can wax a big car in just an hour or so, not counting prep. And prep is the same.

I know I'm going to tick-off some people with my "hype" comment, but when you read some of the marketing mumbo-jumbo out there, you learn that it's just snake oil. The reason that "ceramic coating" often looks so good, is because the "installers" spend 10 hours prepping the car, polishing, perhaps even wet sanding. Any car is going to look good after that, regardless of the top coat.

You could perhaps make an argument that it "lasts longer" but in my real-world testing, it does not.

You could also make the argument that professional ceramicers (my new word I just made up) get a better, superior product that what we retail enthusiasts cannot buy, but that's horse poopie as well. It's called marketing, folks. And for those guys who swear by their $9000 professionally installed ceramic, well... enjoy your Porsche.

Now, granted, I enjoy washing and waxing and prepping and cleaning my cars. It's a form of stress relief for me, and I enjoy the results. Many people do not. Many people don't have the space, time, inclination, talent or desire to do this, and they'd rather pay someone. That's fine. Just know what you're paying for.

OK, hold on, I'm going to step off my soapbox now. Can someone help me down please?

The 5BW was the first car that I did PPF on the front/mirrors and full CQuartz. I also use the Carpro Reset for my foam cannon. I've had my car ~14 months now and done nothing other than foam wash. The water and dirt beads off as good as it did on day 1. I literally don't touch the car at all except for detailing where I use Ech20. Since about 2 months ago I have a filter system on my pressure washer setup and only air dry now. I don't know if ceramic is a gimmick, I think some of the products are, but I'm very happy with the result.

My entire car washing takes 30m and I don't enjoy waxing cars. Always had someone else do that. I get my relaxation from yard work and particularly enjoy chainsaws.

 

[BimmerFan]

My entire car washing takes 30m and I don't enjoy waxing cars. Always had someone else do that. I get my relaxation from yard work and particularly enjoy chainsaws.

Come over next weekend, and I'll wash and wax your car. You can mow and do some tree trimming for me.

That's a really nice setup, great job, but you know you've got like 4 different shades of blue going there, right?

 

[Tall Steve]

No. It's a bunch of hype. I've done it on wheels (calipers, are you crazy!?!?!?) and don't see a difference in keeping off dust or dirt, and no easier to clean. Of course, keep in mind that that's been on BMWs, and the wheels tend to get covered in brake dust in the 5 minutes between washing the car and putting it in the garage.

On the wife's car's trunk lid, I did half with ceramic and half with good old-fashioned wax. There is no difference in shine and no difference in water beading/retention after 6 months. Sure, it's easier to apply ceramic, but I can wax a big car in just an hour or so, not counting prep. And prep is the same.

I know I'm going to tick-off some people with my "hype" comment, but when you read some of the marketing mumbo-jumbo out there, you learn that it's just snake oil. The reason that "ceramic coating" often looks so good, is because the "installers" spend 10 hours prepping the car, polishing, perhaps even wet sanding. Any car is going to look good after that, regardless of the top coat.

You could perhaps make an argument that it "lasts longer" but in my real-world testing, it does not.

You could also make the argument that professional ceramicers (my new word I just made up) get a better, superior product that what we retail enthusiasts cannot buy, but that's horse poopie as well. It's called marketing, folks. And for those guys who swear by their $9000 professionally installed ceramic, well... enjoy your Porsche.

Now, granted, I enjoy washing and waxing and prepping and cleaning my cars. It's a form of stress relief for me, and I enjoy the results. Many people do not. Many people don't have the space, time, inclination, talent or desire to do this, and they'd rather pay someone. That's fine. Just know what you're paying for.

OK, hold on, I'm going to step off my soapbox now. Can someone help me down please?

 

[rubberduck]

Come over next weekend, and I'll wash and wax your car. You can mow and do some tree trimming for me.



That's a really nice setup, great job, but you know you've got like 4 different shades of blue going there, right?

I was thinking of replacing the light blue hose with a better hose. Those hoses and CRES pipe fittings are very expensive. I have about $2K into the setup right now.

 

[Tall Steve]

I was thinking of replacing the light blue hose with another setup. Those hoses and CRES pipe fittings are very expensive. I have about $2K into the setup right now.

There is nothing wrong with it and looks good to me... I would love to have that setup!

 

[rubberduck]

There is nothing wrong with it and looks good to me... I would love to have that setup!

It's my OCD acting up!

 

[RobC7]

I would pay about $625 premium for the Orange because that's what Cadillac charges for it (if all things are equal).

Looking back at BAT, it's not even a car I would consider because it has brakes that are ready for the track but base seats. Why would one opt for CCB but not check the box for upgraded seats? Seems like a tough sell on the used car market.

In your case, I would buy the newer car and reap the benefits of a full warranty and overall $$ saved. Once the cars are used and a few years old, the $$ difference between a fully optioned and a base model won't be that far apart.

And I'm behind you on the Ceramic Coating hot take. It only makes sense financially if you polish and apply it yourself. I might just be saying that because I'm poor.

Another one:

No Reserve: 2023 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing 6-Speed

Bid for the chance to own a No Reserve: 2023 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing 6-Speed at auction with Bring a Trailer, the home of the best vintage and classic cars online. Lot #119,423.

bringatrailer.com

 

[savethemanual]

I would buy the 95K car.
The BAT car is so weirdly optioned. Who gets CCB and base seats.

 

[CBH]

I hate UTexas burnt orange, so I wouldn't be caught dead in it. Its wonderful for folks who like it though.

But I've experienced severe difficulty selling cars with obscure colors in the past. Black will be EASY to sell to the next person or dealer.

Regardless of price, I'd recommend staying away from any color out of the mainstream if you care about resale.

Comments about options are also accurate - in a few years there will likely be hardly any premium for those options that are expensive today.