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Subwoofer Install

Daijoubu

Seasoned Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2021
Messages
678
Location
Charlotte, NC
Has anyone installed a sub in their CT5V BW? Looking for some inspiration before I go to the local audio shop.

Now, you may be saying to yourself, "this moron needs to listen to the beautiful music of that LT4, not his stupid Coldplay and Carly Rae Jepsen playlist." Well, my friends, that is exactly my problem. To me, in order to get a little "feel" of the music while driving I like to have enough bass (not the fish) at low levels that I don't blast my ears with "call me maybe" while totally missing the pops from the exhaust after my perfect heel-toe automatic rev match down shifts.

Seriously though, I just want a little more bottom end. Needs to be high quality, minimally invasive (don't want holes drilled everywhere), and easily removable at the track. I know nothing about car audio.

My 22 Honda Civic with Bose sounds 10x better than my BW at low volumes. I have cranked the BW volume up and it does sound good, but I don't need that.

Edit: I went ahead and had a 12" JL Audio Sub installed.

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Disclaimer: This is on a CT4BW and I did not do the install, but previously upgraded the audio in almost every car I've owned.
I was/am very satisfied with the AKG system but longed for some more punch at lower volumes like you mentioned. I went to look at a car audio place nearby and they had some AIO sub boxes for pretty decent prices including install. Cheery on top is they also did window tint which I was also in the market for.

Again, I didn't do the install but it seems like it would be very easy on this car. The shop grabbed power from the battery, conveniently located in the trunk, and used a line-out converter from the existing sub in the rear shelf to provide low voltage RCA input to the box. Not sure where or what fuse was used for the remote turn on. I wanted the same option of having it easily removable and installed and harness on the power and ground to easily disconnect (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C69HJ2B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1). Thought it was weird the shop didn't offer this, but it was easy enough. Still have to manually unscrew the remote activation and need to install similar on that smaller wire. Otherwise the box is secured with Velcro strips on the bottom.

One big thing: That rear shelf is not very well sound-deadened. Vibrates a lot. Haven't done it yet but plan to use butyl matting to reduce the vibrations, as it is obnoxious at high bass levels.

Went with a ported box for maximum thump, 150w RMS. JBL Basspro 12, with install under $400. They did install the remote volume control just to the left of the HVAC controls. Running that wire was probably the most difficult part of the install. All in all I love the result and it gave me just the punch I wanted, and the external control allows me to dial in just the right level. Oh and we disconnected the stock sub
 

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Disclaimer: This is on a CT4BW and I did not do the install, but previously upgraded the audio in almost every car I've owned.
I was/am very satisfied with the AKG system but longed for some more punch at lower volumes like you mentioned. I went to look at a car audio place nearby and they had some AIO sub boxes for pretty decent prices including install. Cheery on top is they also did window tint which I was also in the market for.

Again, I didn't do the install but it seems like it would be very easy on this car. The shop grabbed power from the battery, conveniently located in the trunk, and used a line-out converter from the existing sub in the rear shelf to provide low voltage RCA input to the box. Not sure where or what fuse was used for the remote turn on. I wanted the same option of having it easily removable and installed and harness on the power and ground to easily disconnect (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C69HJ2B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1). Thought it was weird the shop didn't offer this, but it was easy enough. Still have to manually unscrew the remote activation and need to install similar on that smaller wire. Otherwise the box is secured with Velcro strips on the bottom.

One big thing: That rear shelf is not very well sound-deadened. Vibrates a lot. Haven't done it yet but plan to use butyl matting to reduce the vibrations, as it is obnoxious at high bass levels.

Went with a ported box for maximum thump, 150w RMS. JBL Basspro 12, with install under $400. They did install the remote volume control just to the left of the HVAC controls. Running that wire was probably the most difficult part of the install. All in all I love the result and it gave me just the punch I wanted, and the external control allows me to dial in just the right level. Oh and we disconnected the stock sub
Nice. I've been debating going with a powered sub for ease of packaging and installation. I'm not sure the 5BW has a low level input in the rear of the car since I don't think it has a stock sub, so I guess I could use a high level input from the speakers. I would love to not run a single wire to the front of the car.

Did they tap the rear fuse panel for the remote turn on? Again, if I could keep everything in the trunk, that would be great.

I went to the "best" shop in town and they are super slow even getting me a quote, so not sure I want to use them. Going to a second place soon to get a second opinion.
 
Disclaimer: This is on a CT4BW and I did not do the install, but previously upgraded the audio in almost every car I've owned.
I was/am very satisfied with the AKG system but longed for some more punch at lower volumes like you mentioned. I went to look at a car audio place nearby and they had some AIO sub boxes for pretty decent prices including install. Cheery on top is they also did window tint which I was also in the market for.

Again, I didn't do the install but it seems like it would be very easy on this car. The shop grabbed power from the battery, conveniently located in the trunk, and used a line-out converter from the existing sub in the rear shelf to provide low voltage RCA input to the box. Not sure where or what fuse was used for the remote turn on. I wanted the same option of having it easily removable and installed and harness on the power and ground to easily disconnect (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C69HJ2B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1). Thought it was weird the shop didn't offer this, but it was easy enough. Still have to manually unscrew the remote activation and need to install similar on that smaller wire. Otherwise the box is secured with Velcro strips on the bottom.

One big thing: That rear shelf is not very well sound-deadened. Vibrates a lot. Haven't done it yet but plan to use butyl matting to reduce the vibrations, as it is obnoxious at high bass levels.

Went with a ported box for maximum thump, 150w RMS. JBL Basspro 12, with install under $400. They did install the remote volume control just to the left of the HVAC controls. Running that wire was probably the most difficult part of the install. All in all I love the result and it gave me just the punch I wanted, and the external control allows me to dial in just the right level. Oh and we disconnected the stock sub
Did you disable the ANC? If so, how? If not, any issues with odd sounds? Edit: I found this...I'm going to give it a shot and hope it works. I'm actually curious to see how much of a difference the ANC actually makes...

 
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@Tall Steve since you have both a 4BW & a 5BW, are the two systems the same across the models? I know the Escalade's AKG is a better system, at least according some a few reviewers on youtube, but could just be that the Cade is bigger and can fit more speakers & amps.

I have always upgraded my systems in previous cars until the last two that I currently have because their stock systems finally had the separation and imaging that most stock systems used to lack.. I was hoping this AKG has those qualities.
 
@Tall Steve since you have both a 4BW & a 5BW, are the two systems the same across the models? I know the Escalade's AKG is a better system, at least according some a few reviewers on youtube, but could just be that the Cade is bigger and can fit more speakers & amps.

I have always upgraded my systems in previous cars until the last two that I currently have because their stock systems finally had the separation and imaging that most stock systems used to lack.. I was hoping this AKG has those qualities.
The head units are the same but imho they sound a little different... To me the 5 sounds a little better, maybe just because of its size? The type of music I listen to is not really bass heavy so to me the system is fine...
 
Did you disable the ANC? If so, how? If not, any issues with odd sounds? Edit: I found this...I'm going to give it a shot and hope it works. I'm actually curious to see how much of a difference the ANC actually makes...

I did not disable ANC. LOC was connected to the factory subwoofer wiring. No hum or unexpected noises.
 
I did not disable ANC. LOC was connected to the factory subwoofer wiring. No hum or unexpected noises.
Interesting. The 5BW does not have a subwoofer, but 2 6x9s in the rear deck for bass. We are going to check their output range, and possibly just leave them unplugged if they are solely low frequency that the aftermarket sub can handle. I wonder if that would work without disabling the ANC. We could just depin the harness that has the 3 ANC mics, but I think the $15 adapter will be easier to install/remove to see if we really need to disable the ANC.

Now that I think about it, if the factory sub in the 4BW does not do any duty as an ANC providing speaker, and that is the signal you are using, that is probably why you are good to go. Hopefully, the same is true for the 6x9s in the 5BW.
 
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-JL Audio CP112LG-TW1-2 Microsub 12" Ported Enclosure
-JL Audio JD500/1 500watt, single channel amp
-Kicker KEYLOC
-JL Audio Remote Bass Controller


Signal goes from the speaker level inputs from the rear 6x9 "subwoofers" into the KEYLOC, then to the amp and sub. We left the rear deck subwoofers disconnected since they only provide low frequencies anyway. We depinned the 3 ANC microphones from the harness at the factory amp. ANC no longer works, but I think the exhaust is now a little louder inside the car (could just be in my head). My goal was for just a little increase in bass at low levels, and a super clean install. I think it sounds great, nothing rattles, and I can easily pull the sub out for track days, and when I need the trunk space.


PXL_20221023_180207321.jpg
PXL_20221023_180311422.jpg

PXL_20221023_180601064.jpg
 
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-JL Audio CP112LG-TW1-2 Microsub 12" Ported Enclosure
-JL Audio JD500/1 500watt, single channel amp
-Kicker KEYLOC
-JL Audio Remote Bass Controller


Signal goes from the speaker level inputs from the rear 6x9 "subwoofers" into the KEYLOC, then to the amp and sub. We left the rear deck subwoofers disconnected since they only provide low frequencies anyway. We depinned the 3 ANC microphones from the harness at the factory amp. ANC no longer works, but I think the exhaust is now a little louder inside the car (could just be in my head). My goal was for just a little increase in bass at low levels, and a super clean install. I think it sounds great, nothing rattles, and I can easily pull the sub out for track days, and when I need the trunk space.


View attachment 13611View attachment 13612
View attachment 13613
Why would you want to disable the ANC? Asking because when I do mine, I only want to be in there once.
 
Why would you want to disable the ANC? Asking because when I do mine, I only want to be in there once.
If you don't, then the added sound from an aftermarket sub will be seen by the ANC as noise that it needs to cancel causing very weird and loud pops/thuds/drones from the ANC system. I wanted to try without disabling the ANC first, but the install guy at the shop said he had never seen an ANC system that played nice with an aftermarket sub.
 
Just need a bit more power and control, something like this may be worth a look;

Maybe a replacement upgraded sub to match the amp. I bet the door speakers would sound very well given a bit more control over the sound.
 
Interesting.......only thing I know about the audio in my car is that it could be improved.
Would installing the amp by itself improve the overall sound quality?
I know very little about car audio these days as well. Most of my education is from perusing Crutchfield catalogs 20 years ago. It's so complicated now with locked head units, factory amps, and ANC, etc. I did a little research, but talking to a pro installer was the key.
 
I know very little about car audio these days as well. Most of my education is from perusing Crutchfield catalogs 20 years ago. It's so complicated now with locked head units, factory amps, and ANC, etc. I did a little research, but talking to a pro installer was the key.
Did the overall quality of the music noticeably improve?
 
We depinned the 3 ANC microphones from the harness at the factory amp. ANC no longer works, but I think the exhaust is now a little louder inside the car (could just be in my head).
Any advice on this part (ANC AMP pic attached)? I installed a P300-12T (the slender truck version) in my CT4 BW and have the ANC feedback. I reached out and am still actively communicating with lljcustoms but the last message we shared was them telling me that "if I have a factory sub I cannot have ANC." I sent pictures back to them of the mics in the car's headliner and believed that cleared it up but no solution yet. I did the install myself and overall I am happy with the fit/finish/sound when the car is stationary but the ANC feedback when moving is a deal breaker. I see in the manual about the ANC it states "Deactivation is required by your dealer if related aftermarket equipment is installed." I really don't want to go to the dealer for this. Any help is appreciated. PS. ignore the wires in the pic, I am still working on the install.
 

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Any advice on this part (ANC AMP pic attached)? I installed a P300-12T (the slender truck version) in my CT4 BW and have the ANC feedback. I reached out and am still actively communicating with lljcustoms but the last message we shared was them telling me that "if I have a factory sub I cannot have ANC." I sent pictures back to them of the mics in the car's headliner and believed that cleared it up but no solution yet. I did the install myself and overall I am happy with the fit/finish/sound when the car is stationary but the ANC feedback when moving is a deal breaker. I see in the manual about the ANC it states "Deactivation is required by your dealer if related aftermarket equipment is installed." I really don't want to go to the dealer for this. Any help is appreciated. PS. ignore the wires in the pic, I am still working on the install.
I believe the 4BW and 5BW are the same, but I am not 100% sure. They have the same RPO code for the stereo (UQS). I didn't download the diagrams for the 4, but this is for the 5.

Unplug the X3 connector. I cannot remember which one it is in your picture, but match up the color of the wires with the diagram, and if they all match that's the one. You can either cut the wires 1, 2, and 3 (all of the ANC mics). Or, get a depinning tool (the correct tool is J-38125-215A) and disconnect them from the harness. You might need to Google how this connector releases because it is a little odd. It has a part that slides then you can get to the terminals. Also, I'd make sure all the colors are the same as what is in my diagram, otherwise you'll need to get to the factory service manual for the 4.
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