What did you do to your Blackwing today?

[Argent86]

OCD Items for the oil exchange. Odometer at 485 ready for the 500 mile tick:

Supercar 0-40W
PF64 filter
Oil pan plug magnetic Goldplug
Blackstone Laboratories kit for the 6.2L. testing at 500, 1500, 4500
RaceRamps RR-XT-2 (Summit best deal then)

Rear diff lube Delco. yum.
Rear diff plug magnetic Goldplug AP22
Magnetic plugs for the Tremec when I get to it. Goldplug x2 NPT thread fill and drain. why not?

INSANE GOBS of OCD cleaning solutions for testing and sniffing (and shine)
Bilt Hamber, Koch Chemie, Labocosmetica, POSH. Gtechniq.
Foams, window cleaners, bug, tar, tire dressings. GOBS of detailers rags, cottons, microfibers, brushes, 3-brands of iron alkaloyds for wheels and smells.

Karcher 1700, Ryobi blower(s)

Heatshield(s) for CT5-V front, back, top (paid pending, patterns for Ultraview)

Full disclosure I'm old school Zaino car paint user. Lets just see how the Argent Silver looks with optical purity, in a minute. boom.

Need:
Water filter for spotless.
Foam canon - waiting on Harbor Freight restock

 

[CT4-Venom]

I've been eyeing the JB4. Still on the fence as actual ECU tuning is now possible.

I'd be curious about your experiance

I’m liking it so far. On map one there is not much of a difference during hard acceleration that I noticed. However, on map 2 I did notice a difference and it was amazing. Next buy is the tapout air box lid.

 

[piranha971]

Doesn't JB4 make the lid with larger tubes redundant? JB4 is already spoofing readings. What is the lid going to be doing?

 

[Roadhawk]

Doesn't JB4 make the lid with larger tubes redundant? JB4 is already spoofing readings. What is the lid going to be doing?

Really good question and I've been having similar thoughts. I have the Tapout larger MAF and ported throttle body. If their claims are accurate I;m conceivably making 70-80+ hp at redline over stock. Not sure what the JB4 maps give you - more certainly.... but the larger MAF/throttle body seems in the ballpark.

My butt dyno confirms the extra power. Very recently I took a new M2 off the line (before he quit...shame) and a dual motor tesla (3 runs off the line) clearly edging him substantially each time. Car feels much beefier over stock. currently I don't feel the need for any more power...

 

[piranha971]

I've had the larger tube lid for about a week and a half, though I don't drive that much.
The good: definitely quicker throttle response, and it does pull stronger.
The not so good: I did already get the CEL and reset it with my torque app. I don't like how the revs hang when coasting in neutral as much as 1.5k until you roll to a stop. Seems like the ECU is a bit confused. I also am getting more frequent and higher count misfires on my Torque app display, though I have never really felt it. It does run a bit rough after install/reset.
I guess that's about it. Still getting the feel for it and assessing if I want to stick with it. I do have the JB4 on hand, pending install when I find the time and desire to regap the plugs and to further jeopardize the warranty. I don't like that job one bit. When I install it, I am probably going to be letting the lid go as I doubt it does anything at that point.

 

[Kawman]

Doesn't JB4 make the lid with larger tubes redundant? JB4 is already spoofing readings. What is the lid going to be doing?

Just as the JB4 fools the computer into making more power, the larger MAF tubes do as well. If you have both the JB4 and the airbox lid with larger MAF tubes you'll get a custom tune for the JB4 going one step farther than what it comes programed for.

 

[CT4-Venom]

Doesn't JB4 make the lid with larger tubes redundant? JB4 is already spoofing readings. What is the lid going to be doing?

According to the Dino sheet on the tapout website it makes a big gain on hp and boost. But I will let @WONT TAP answer that definitively.

Tapout Tuning CT4-V Blackwing Carbon Fiber Airbox Lid - Tapout Tuning

www.tapouttuning.com

 

[RDATLTE]

I've had the larger tube lid for about a week and a half, though I don't drive that much.
The good: definitely quicker throttle response, and it does pull stronger.
The not so good: I did already get the CEL and reset it with my torque app. I don't like how the revs hang when coasting in neutral as much as 1.5k until you roll to a stop. Seems like the ECU is a bit confused. I also am getting more frequent and higher count misfires on my Torque app display, though I have never really felt it. It does run a bit rough after install/reset.
I guess that's about it. Still getting the feel for it and assessing if I want to stick with it. I do have the JB4 on hand, pending install when I find the time and desire to regap the plugs and to further jeopardize the warranty. I don't like that job one bit. When I install it, I am probably going to be letting the lid go as I doubt it does anything at that point.

First dibs on the lid!

 

[CT4-Venom]

First dibs on the lid!

I will take second dibs because RDALTE really doesn't want it!

 

[Bald Guy]

I'll tell you what I need to do, I need to fill up gas for the first time since I purchased this vehicle and because I'm running low. : )

 

[CT4-Venom]

I'll tell you what I need to do, I need to fill up gas for the first time since I purchased this vehicle and because I'm running low. : )

Is that still a thing?

 

[1Evil55]

First dibs on the lid!

Post in thread '[Now Available] AWE SwitchPath™ Exhaust for the Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing'

Jul 14, 2025

Not more than 4hrs after I typed my response above, I got a used intake lid with oversized tubs and a jb4 off facebook. Will stay with the lid until I find the time to regap plugs for the jb4. Not a fan of ECU spoofing like that instead of proper tuning, but it seems like people are not having issues with it.
Sorry, derailed the thread. Great exhaust AWE!

I'll take the lid if you happen to change your mind.

• 1Evil55

 

[RDATLTE]

I will take second dibs because RDALTE really doesn't want it!

 

[rcubed3r]

I don't like how the revs hang when coasting in neutral as much as 1.5k until you roll to a stop. Seems like the ECU is a bit confused. I also am getting more frequent and higher count misfires

I'm not familiar with the lid and or any known issues, so I may be completely off base, but reading these statements make me think you may have a leak since the install - possibly around the lid or a vacuum line.

 

[Roadhawk]

I'm not familiar with the lid and or any known issues, so I may be completely off base, but reading these statements make me think you may have a leak since the install - possibly around the lid or a vacuum line.

I've on occasion experienced a bit of rev hang on deceleration to a stop...but more often than not - when I check - its my fat right foot still partially pressed on the gas peddle...

 

[albertw]

I've on occasion experienced a bit of rev hang on deceleration to a stop...but more often than not - when I check - its my fat right foot still partially pressed on the gas peddle...

Inconsistent engine braking is my only complaint about this car. After taking my foot completely off the gas I get 3 - 4 seconds of no engine braking, then 3 - 4 seconds of what feels to me to be normal engine braking, then the braking stops for another 3 - 4 seconds as if the computer added just enough gas to make it feel like I had depressed the clutch. If it's a long deceleration down a hill this cycle will repeat, and downshifting as I slow doesn't change the variation in engine braking. I suppose this is related to emission control.

This is only an issue during normal driving (where I keep the RPM below 2300 because that's all it takes to keep up with traffic). At higher revs in the twisties it goes away.

Considering how many more serious complaints I've had about previous cars, this is trivial. However, I find it annoying.

 

[TheShark]

Inconsistent engine braking is my only complaint about this car. After taking my foot completely off the gas I get 3 - 4 seconds of no engine braking, then 3 - 4 seconds of what feels to me to be normal engine braking, then the braking stops for another 3 - 4 seconds as if the computer added just enough gas to make it feel like I had depressed the clutch. If it's a long deceleration down a hill this cycle will repeat, and downshifting as I slow doesn't change the variation in engine braking. I suppose this is related to emission control.

This is only an issue during normal driving (where I keep the RPM below 2300 because that's all it takes to keep up with traffic). At higher revs in the twisties it goes away.

Considering how many more serious complaints I've had about previous cars, this is trivial. However, I find it annoying

Inconsistent engine braking is my only complaint about this car. After taking my foot completely off the gas I get 3 - 4 seconds of no engine braking, then 3 - 4 seconds of what feels to me to be normal engine braking, then the braking stops for another 3 - 4 seconds as if the computer added just enough gas to make it feel like I had depressed the clutch. If it's a long deceleration down a hill this cycle will repeat, and downshifting as I slow doesn't change the variation in engine braking. I suppose this is related to emission control.

This is only an issue during normal driving (where I keep the RPM below 2300 because that's all it takes to keep up with traffic). At higher revs in the twisties it goes away.

Considering how many more serious complaints I've had about previous cars, this is trivial. However, I find it annoying.

does rev match being on or off change it? I recall with it off, the revs climbed on the downshift to provide engine braking

 

[albertw]

does rev match being on or off change it? I recall with it off, the revs climbed on the downshift to provide engine braking

No. The rise in revs during downshifting lasts just a second or so - just long enough to shift into the lower gear. I always turn on revmatching because even in the twisties I seldom brake hard enough to push the brake pedal down to where I can easily reach the gas pedal with the side of my foot (and that's only when I have made a serious mistake and have other things to worry about than downshifting). Thus revmatching doesn't prevent intermittent engine braking, although I can't be sure it wouldn't be different if revmatching was off.

 

[piranha971]

Inconsistent engine braking is my only complaint about this car. After taking my foot completely off the gas I get 3 - 4 seconds of no engine braking, then 3 - 4 seconds of what feels to me to be normal engine braking, then the braking stops for another 3 - 4 seconds as if the computer added just enough gas to make it feel like I had depressed the clutch. If it's a long deceleration down a hill this cycle will repeat, and downshifting as I slow doesn't change the variation in engine braking. I suppose this is related to emission control.

This is only an issue during normal driving (where I keep the RPM below 2300 because that's all it takes to keep up with traffic). At higher revs in the twisties it goes away.

Considering how many more serious complaints I've had about previous cars, this is trivial. However, I find it annoying.

Same here. I have been meaning to ask about that. Pretty annoying.

 

[piranha971]

I'm not familiar with the lid and or any known issues, so I may be completely off base, but reading these statements make me think you may have a leak since the install - possibly around the lid or a vacuum line.

Yup. These damn screws. All stripped out. One was good 1/8" from full seating and there was some movement when the lid around it was pushed down. Didnt have time to take the inlet hose off to get to it, but merely pushing down the lid seemed to have resolved it temporarily. Will fix it this evening and then buy hex head screws to replace that philips trash. Thanks fellas!