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Tapout CT4-V Blackwing Carbon Fiber Intake Test Results

Any fix for this CEL code? I’d like to purchase this too but don’t want to deal with CEL’s.
 
Any fix for this CEL code? I’d like to purchase this too but don’t want to deal with CEL’s.
There are several ways to address DTC P1400, which seems to happen on some cold starts. JB4, Aeroforce scan gauge and DTC Assassin can all be used to clear the code within seconds.




We also have our own brand of tuning module that will be released in the near future. Unlike the JB4, it taps into both MAF sensor circuits and allows MAF sensor tuning below 2,500 rpm. So we can use it to completely circumvent DTC P1400. This product is only available with in house installation and custom tuning today. However, we plan to make it available for shipment within the next few months.
 
There are several ways to address DTC P1400, which seems to happen on some cold starts. JB4, Aeroforce scan gauge and DTC Assassin can all be used to clear the code within seconds.




We also have our own brand of tuning module that will be released in the near future. Unlike the JB4, it taps into both MAF sensor circuits and allows MAF sensor tuning below 2,500 rpm. So we can use it to completely circumvent DTC P1400. This product is only available with in house installation and custom tuning today. However, we plan to make it available for shipment within the next few months.
I’m just looking for the CAI without the JB4 so are you guys working on a fix? Also is there an advantage to the green filters over the stock ones?

Thanks in advance
 
Unfortunately I'm running into two codes after a couple of weeks of use. DTC P1400 which I cleared and subsequently came back after about 2 days but didn't seem to be a big deal. But more concerning p0174 suggesting the fuel mix is too lean. This popped on after warmer ambient temperatures ~80 degrees. Which makes sense since there is more airflow supposedly. I don't really want to risk knocking or engine damage. Also the car just idled rough, RPMs would jump from 1 to 1.5 just at idle. Once I removed the box the codes went away and idle went back to normal. Its unfortunate because it really did feel to have more torque. I'm not sure if a JB4 could adjust for the lean mixture? Had to return the part though. Note this also included the performance green filters.
 
How can the system provide enough fuel if the intake itself is fooling the system and not providing actual air flow amounts? Seems natural that the system would be running lean due to this. Another reason why I will not run this unless I have a tuning solution as well.
 
Unfortunately I'm running into two codes after a couple of weeks of use. DTC P1400 which I cleared and subsequently came back after about 2 days but didn't seem to be a big deal. But more concerning p0174 suggesting the fuel mix is too lean. This popped on after warmer ambient temperatures ~80 degrees. Which makes sense since there is more airflow supposedly. I don't really want to risk knocking or engine damage. Also the car just idled rough, RPMs would jump from 1 to 1.5 just at idle. Once I removed the box the codes went away and idle went back to normal. Its unfortunate because it really did feel to have more torque. I'm not sure if a JB4 could adjust for the lean mixture? Had to return the part though. Note this also included the performance green filters.
I don’t understand why they are continuing to sell this product with the known issues. First it was a cold weather problem, and now it seems there are issues in warmer temps as well?
 
I'm sure it works perfectly fine if you have it on a dyno running full wideband tuning and can account for the fuel mixtures, but I don't believe it should be marketed and sold as a "standalone, no other supporting mods needed" application.
 
I just want to chime in that I'm still getting the p1400 code every few drives and the p0171/p0174 every once and a while too (though much more rare). I don't think the ambient temperature has anything to do with the codes sadly. In any case, I'm still rocking the intake - it's not too bad to clear the code and the performance is there.

Tapout - I saw on Facebook you're developing an in-house tuning module as an alternative to the JB4 which should eliminate the codes. Any ETA on when these might be available for customer install? Do you have an estimate on price (will it be around the JB4 cost, or much more)? If running on the low settings P1 (and maybe P2) are new spark plugs necessary? I'm looking forward to getting this when released!
 
I think they said in one facebook thread , they expect to release it in the next few months
 
Hypothesizing...

The ECU probably ignores the O2 sensors during the startup routine, they might be calibrated at temperature. The ECU only has the MAF, which is reading lower than is actually flowing, so it adds less fuel to the mix. This induces the rough idling. The ECU then opens the EGR loop to add the vitiated air into the manifold. Because there is more unvitiated air in the combustion chamber than the ECU thinks, the EGT is still high. The EGR throws a code assuming it must not be opening to the commanded signal based on exit temperature.

The root of the issue is the O2 sensors being offline. The sensors are what allows the manifold to trick the MAF but still maintain proper fuel to air. Maybe you could add some millivolts to the MAF sensor during startup?
 
I’m just looking for the CAI without the JB4 so are you guys working on a fix? Also is there an advantage to the green filters over the stock ones?

Thanks in advance
The Green performance filters are higher quality than OEM. They probably don't add any power at this level, but it always feels good to install higher quality parts on your car.

The JB4 does not have the ability to 'tune' in the low rpm ranges, which is where the intake lid causes DTCs to trigger.
 
How can the system provide enough fuel if the intake itself is fooling the system and not providing actual air flow amounts? Seems natural that the system would be running lean due to this. Another reason why I will not run this unless I have a tuning solution as well.
Our cars have wideband oxygen sensors. They work in conjunction with the ECM to provide nearly perfect fueling at all times.
 
Tapout - I saw on Facebook you're developing an in-house tuning module as an alternative to the JB4 which should eliminate the codes. Any ETA on when these might be available for customer install? Do you have an estimate on price (will it be around the JB4 cost, or much more)? If running on the low settings P1 (and maybe P2) are new spark plugs necessary? I'm looking forward to getting this when released!
Our Tapout Tuning Module allows for electronic 'tuning' via MAF, MAP and TMAP signal manipulation. And we can go all the way to idle, where the codes are triggered. However, we need to get cars on the dyno in order to properly set this up. The Tapout Tuning Modules sell for $895, plus custom dyno tuning is required. And yes, factory spark plugs should be fine at the lower power levels.
 
I think they said in one facebook thread , they expect to release it in the next few months
Tapout Tuning Module (TTM) is available now, in conjunction with in house dyno tuning. Within the next few months, we should be able to start offering it for shipment with seven calibration maps preloaded.
 

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Tapout Tuning Module (TTM) is available now, in conjunction with in house dyno tuning. Within the next few months, we should be able to start offering it for shipment with seven calibration maps preloaded.

Things like this are what we want
 
Thank you Tapout, for your continued commitment to development. I look forward to seeing what comes next from the TTM and intake.
 
Talk about turning a design failing into a feature. This works by disrupting flow over the MAF, which the aftermarket CAIs on the ATS-V do and cause the engine to run lean until you compensate in the tune using an aftermarket WB. The BW OEM wideband enables the ECU to knock the A/F down without a tune and keeps the engine safe (until the WB fails), but you've gotta question the long-term viability of this solution.

Inaccurately metered air is never a good thing. At higher power levels and higher flow velocities the turbulent flow problem is going to becoming increasingly challenging to tune against, and will cost power over the OEM airbox.

The smarter thing to do would be to build an airbox with internal velocity stacks, no hard corners, and 1/8" 6:1 ratio hex cell flow straighteners to get the most accurate MAF readings possible, and supplement the main piping with an adjustable bypass tube. The bypass tube could be removed on fully unlocked tunes.

You can pretty much DIY this power adder at Home Depot for $50 using the factory plumbing.
 
Talk about turning a design failing into a feature. This works by disrupting flow over the MAF, which the aftermarket CAIs on the ATS-V do and cause the engine to run lean until you compensate in the tune using an aftermarket WB. The BW OEM wideband enables the ECU to knock the A/F down without a tune and keeps the engine safe (until the WB fails), but you've gotta question the long-term viability of this solution.

Inaccurately metered air is never a good thing. At higher power levels and higher flow velocities the turbulent flow problem is going to becoming increasingly challenging to tune against, and will cost power over the OEM airbox.

The smarter thing to do would be to build an airbox with internal velocity stacks, no hard corners, and 1/8" 6:1 ratio hex cell flow straighteners to get the most accurate MAF readings possible, and supplement the main piping with an adjustable bypass tube. The bypass tube could be removed on fully unlocked tunes.

You can pretty much DIY this power adder at Home Depot for $50 using the factory plumbing.
That's cool man. Show us some pictures of the one you built!
 

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