Jacking up your Blackwing

[Deneed4spd]

Front central jacking location:

View attachment 17380

Front jack point 2. Note, the pad should go just inside the seam and not on it.
View attachment 17381
Rear Jack point:
View attachment 17382

Wait - your suppose to Jack not on the pinch weld but right behind it?

 

[rubberduck]

Wait - your suppose to Jack not on the pinch weld but right behind it?

I saw these diagrams when I first got my car. On the front they show the jack inboard of the pinch weld and partially on the piece with the large holes that’s used for the manufacturing assembly line. I believe they don’t want you directly jacking on the pinch weld without some sort of adapter.

 

[Neveready]

Just looked and my car has those spots as well. Never noticed before. Mine has been on dealer lift twice and they are perfectly straight. No bends like in @Neveready shows in his photo.

Yes, those scratched rings are normal from the factory lifts. We don't know for certain if that lift point was ever designed to support the whole car or just a portion of the frame prior to it being fully completed.


I'm not 100% certain my dealer did this, they had absolutely no reason to pull the tires off and may have used a car ramp lift. Im going to review the PDR which should show me but I don't think I have all the recordings as far back as the 3 times it went to them. What is certain is that they lifted the driver side pinch weld with the edge of the rubber hockey puck and it was stuck in the pinch weld. I believe they lifted it correctly thr last time it was in the shop( according to the diagram in the previous post). The diagram looks as though the pinch weld is being supported by an inch from the edge of the puck and the remaining puck is nestled under the edge of the 1st circle. What a pain in the ass.

I'm going to start a new thread about it. I probably should not hijack this one. Please see here:Thread 'Jack Lift Points Damaged' Jack Lift Points Damaged

 

[OldGoat]

Wait - your suppose to Jack not on the pinch weld but right behind it?

Negative, if look closely at those images you see lift pads contact pinchweld in those open spots. You should only use pinchweld adapters or you risk bending and or crushing that seam.

 

[Neveready]

Wait - your suppose to Jack not on the pinch weld but right behind it?

As mentioned earlier, my dealer forgot their rubber puck from the lift. Here are photos of where it was and this matches the diagram.

There is a slight bump next to the pinch weld, I am fairly confident the pad goes up in the weld and rests on that bump. The puck is a bridge between the weld and bump.

 

[Bourbonp]

I use the ZL1 Addons CT5V stealth mounts. I did not cut the plastic since the mounts bottom out on the pinch weld. Not sure if this is ideal, but in the 5 or 6 times I've jacked up the car it seems to work fine.

Cadillac 20-24 CT5 & CT5-V Stealth Lift Pads

The original bolt-on lift points made in the USA for the 2020-2024 Cadillac CT5 & CT5-V. Machined from American billet aluminum and designed to be left on the car. The stealth design also incorporates weight savings and a custom design to catch the attention of the mechanic or shop preparing to...

zl1addons.com

Interestingly, the picture shown on the ZL1 website does show that the plastic flexes quite a lot

 

[shbox]

As mentioned earlier, my dealer forgot their rubber puck from the lift. Here are photos of where it was and this matches the diagram.

There is a slight bump next to the pinch weld, I am fairly confident the pad goes up in the weld and rests on that bump. The puck is a bridge between the weld and bump. View attachment 17396

Likely GM's solution because all lifts have pads and they don't use (or don't want to use) pinch weld adapters like available for DIY. Looks like most of the load will like be carried by the pinch weld and the bump out portion will help balance without having enough weight on it to crush the sheet metal structure.

To most mechanics, the bumped out metal part with the rings probably looks substantial (and has been on a lot of earlier cars), but it is actually soft for a direct load these days.

 

[rubberduck]

Interestingly, the picture shown on the ZL1 website does show that the plastic flexes quite a lot

It does flex, but like I said there is little force on it since the adaptor bottoms out on the pinch weld.

 

[poor-sha]

What if the cut out in the pinch weld was just to show you where to place the jack behind it?

 

[jumpmanjay]

Ugh FM... I guess I have no recourse I can't prove anything, or does anyone have any recommendations as to how to go about rectifying this issue?


I did have the car towed once to the dealership when my coolant line cracked but I don't think they would have used those holes to hook on.



Those look like the esco jack stands...

View attachment 17372

They do look like the Esco ones. I have those, and they are beefy.

 

[jumpmanjay]

Interestingly, the picture shown on the ZL1 website does show that the plastic flexes quite a lot

That pic is from my installation of them. The plastic does indeed flex, but it's not even pinched in between the pad and the chassis. The pad bottoms out on the weld. I've jacked up the car a few times with no issues.

 

[Ergoc5]

With the ZL1 add on pads, you just leave them on the car with the set screws? Hmmm that makes me a bit hesitant

 

[OldGoat]

With the ZL1 add on pads, you just leave them on the car with the set screws? Hmmm that makes me a bit hesitant

Yes, just make sure pinchwelds are bottomed into pad. I dabbed RTV over ends of set screws where they contact pinchweld after anti-seized threads of set screws. They won't go anywhere. I've driven off with magnetic pads and they stayed let alone screwed on pads.

 

[Ergoc5]

I am only going to use it to swap wheels...seems like a pain to get the ZL1 add ons mounted since the set screws are at the inboard side of the car...you have to get under the car to tighten them

 

[OldGoat]

I am only going to use it to swap wheels...seems like a pain to get the ZL1 add ons mounted since the set screws are at the inboard side of the car...you have to get under the car to tighten them

I have a set of composite race ramps. Got it up high enough to install them. Still less hassle then lining up pinchweld pads every time you want to jack car up . Bigger reason is for whatever reason you may need to bring car anywhere for service, repair, tires, you have piece of mind that some careless idiot doesn't damage underside of your car.

 

[Ergoc5]

The stealth ones out of stock unfortunately

 

[OldGoat]

The stealth ones out of stock unfortunately

Lol, of course

 

[Ergoc5]

It seems to available now...anyone had success getting through to ZL1 add ons? No response to email and nobody picking up the phone

 

[OldGoat]

It seems to available now...anyone had success getting through to ZL1 add ons? No response to email and nobody picking up the phone

Try placing an order and see if they give you a delivery date or estimated time of arrival. When I ordered mine they sent me an email stating that it would be shipped within 24 to 48 hours

 

[Ergoc5]

Try placing an order and see if they give you a delivery date or estimated time of arrival. When I ordered mine they sent me an email stating that it would be shipped within 24 to 48 hours

Thanks I finally got through using the sales line...I basically wanted to figure out what fit best with this car. Mine has CF side skirts and I was concerned that the stealth version would not have enough clearance up front. Considering the magpuck as well but wasn't sure about the 2" vs 3" version. I am thinking these are worth it over the rubber versions.