Tips for CT4 BW pre-delivery inspection, lift points

[Ryan]

After being on this forum for 2.5 years, i finally pulled the trigger. 4k off a 6MT at MSRP, and the only options are the radiant red color and the high performance steering wheel. Total ended up at $60,100, which was 100 dollars over my "budget"

At any rate, the car is 1000 miles away from me. Wife and I will be flying out, taking delivery and driving back. What things in particular should i check out on the car during the inspection and test drive? It's been sitting on the lot for a couple months. I'm decent with cars and do basic maintenance and wear items myself, but im no expert. Any instructions beyond "no front license plate", "dont swirl the car up", and "dont put any dealer stickers on"?

One more thing: I read the entire 15 page thread on jacking the 4 up, and it didnt seem to reach a consensus. I have rhino ramps and 2x4s that i use on my 328, which may or may not work for the 4. It seemed like the best option for the floor jack was one of the pinch weld adapters such as:

ZL1 universal pinch weld

with the urethane hockey puck height adapter.

For jack stands, it appeared that the front has one in the middle that takes a little work to get to, and for the rear the diff was the best choice with some sort of rubber padding?

Thanks for the advice. And I finally get to post a real picture in the blackwing and watches thread!

 

[rubberduck]

In my case with a 5BW I spent an hour going over every inch of the paint using a flashlight and taking pictures and pointing problem areas out to the dealer. I also looked over all the interior CF trim pieces. Two were damaged and had to be replaced (quite a saga, but that’s another story). What I didn’t notice is they didn’t remove the transportation blocks on the front springs. That I found out after 500 miles.

 

[DustinEarnhardt]

In my case with a 5BW I spent an hour going over every inch of the paint using a flashlight and taking pictures and pointing problem areas out to the dealer. I also looked over all the interior CF trim pieces. Two were damaged and had to be replaced (quite a saga, but that’s another story). What I didn’t notice is they didn’t remove the transportation blocks on the front springs. That I found out after 500 miles.

Same happened to me. Drove around with them for weeks wondering why the front suspension on my brand new car was squeaking when it rained. A quick peek under the fender had a bright yellow transportation block wedged in the springs on both sides.

That said, I was one of the original 250, so my dealer had never seen a Blackwing before. Dealers may be a little more skilled at pre-delivery now than they were then.

 

[jodakid69]

Yes, the pinch weld adapter, rubber hockey puck, and a low-profile 3-ton jack does the trick for me. Lifting at the cutout location in the rocker panel CF. A square rubber piece would be better than the hockey puck.

 

[FLYARMY]

I have the 5BW.......I don't know if the 4BW comes with brake air deflectors (commonly called tomahawks). Just make sure that they are in the trunk . NY requires a front plate. If your state requires the bracket just make sure it is in the trunk so you have it. My dealer just zip tied the plate to the grill because I told them that if they drilled holes in my bumper, they can keep the car.

 

[ukcats12]

I have the 5BW.......I don't know if the 4BW comes with brake air deflectors (commonly called tomahawks). Just make sure that they are in the trunk . NY requires a front plate. If your state requires the bracket just make sure it is in the trunk so you have it. My dealer just zip tied the plate to the grill because I told them that if they drilled holes in my bumper, they can keep the car.

What dealer did you use?

 

[Ryan]

Thanks guys. Doesn’t seem like any major issues outside of the transportation blocks.