Jacking up your Blackwing

[Ryan]

That makes no sense. Of course the distance from the front tire to the apex of the splitter matters as well as the height of the splitter off the ground and the geometry of the ramp. I’m not saying his splitter is any different, just stating basic geometry considerations.

We must be confusing our terms. Im using apex to define the pointy part in the middle that doesnt have tangency. As long as the splitter over the tires clear the ramp, at no point should the apex or anything else constrain you assuming you drive straight up the ramps. The leading edge sweep makes the portion of the splitter over the inside of the tire the pinch point, assuming constant height over the ground.

 

[rubberduck]

We must be confusing our terms. Im using apex to define the pointy part in the middle that doesnt have tangency. As long as the splitter over the tires clear the ramp, at no point should the apex or anything else constrain you assuming you drive straight up the ramps. The leading edge sweep makes the portion of the splitter over the inside of the tire the pinch point, assuming constant height over the ground.

View attachment 21719

My mistake. Yes the furthest point if front of the tires is the important dimension here.

 

[turbotaz]

For those who got the Magpads from ZL1 Addons which one did you get? The 3" one or the universal 2" one? Thanks!

Did you ever figure this out? Planning to order these. Had a flat on a road trip and witnessed Discount Tire use a jack in the rear with no puck right on the pinch weld. No damage that I can see other than paint scuffs surprisingly but figure this would be good to have in the car if there is a next time.

 

[V Series]

I ordered and installed the zl1 add-ons stealth version just the other day. They have a set under their CT5 section but honestly they're probably the same for most cars. I would recommend degreasing the hardware and threaded holes then apply loctite. These end up supporting the actual pinch weld so no trimming of the vertical plastic under there is required. You'll know what I mean if you get them.

 

[turbotaz]

I ordered and installed the zl1 add-ons stealth version just the other day. They have a set under their CT5 section but honestly they're probably the same for most cars. I would recommend degreasing the hardware and threaded holes then apply loctite. These end up supporting the actual pinch weld so no trimming of the vertical plastic under there is required. You'll know what I mean if you get them.

Do you have a picture of them installed? I went through all 18 pages of this thread, and there seems to be conflicting reports about them fitting without a cutout.

 

[FLYARMY]

I'm just gonna go with this set up and be safe all around. I just need to buy a crane.

 

[rubberduck]

Do you have a picture of them installed? I went through all 18 pages of this thread, and there seems to be conflicting reports about them fitting without a cutout.

The plastic bends, but not enough to be of concern. The ZL1 adapter slot contacts the pinch weld and does not put weigh on the plastic.

 

[V Series]

Do you have a picture of them installed? I went through all 18 pages of this thread, and there seems to be conflicting reports about them fitting without a cutout.

Yes here is front and rear. As others have mentioned the pinch weld makes contact not the sub-frame or plastic rocker.

- Benny

 

[daviddi92]

Do these ZL1 addons stealth version work on a 4BW as well? Even using a lift, took some experimenting to get it right and level without contacting anything.

 

[raptor5244]

Do these ZL1 addons stealth version work on a 4BW as well? Even using a lift, took some experimenting to get it right and level without contacting anything.

Sadly no. AFAIK, there are no specific lift pads for the 4BW alpha2 chassis. 5BW and Camaros use the larger Alpha chassis, that have more options. You can use one of these jack adapters on the rear pinch weld, not a great fit on the front pinch weld though.

 

[FLYARMY]

I went with the red ones on my 5BW. That way whoever is lifting the car would have to be blind not see the jack points.

 

[Ergoc5]

Did you ever figure this out? Planning to order these. Had a flat on a road trip and witnessed Discount Tire use a jack in the rear with no puck right on the pinch weld. No damage that I can see other than paint scuffs surprisingly but figure this would be good to have in the car if there is a next time.

Ended up getting the Stealth lift pads

 

[Yalferd]

Did my CT4 BW 1500 mile engine and diff oil service prior to an upcoming track day. Found my short wheelbase quick jacks don't work for this car, so lifted the front with a floor jack and used the "flatbed retrieval blocks" in the front springs and then was able to use my normal car ramps. I barely fit, but now I have time to try and figure something better out

 

[ViaDale]

Had the 5BW on the lift and snapped a few pics. The only special equipment I used were some of the rubber blocks under the lift pads.

View attachment 18215View attachment 18216View attachment 18217View attachment 18218View attachment 18219

Thank you for this post. Seriously helped me settle on a way to lift my 5BW. Instead of rubber blocks, I used some 2x4 that ways poplar (soft enough to confirm a little). Here are some photos...

 

[shbox]

Thank you for this post. Seriously helped me settle on a way to lift my 5BW. Instead of rubber blocks, I used some 2x4 that ways poplar (soft enough to confirm a little). Here are some photos...
View attachment 22470View attachment 22471View attachment 22472View attachment 22473

Including the pinch welds is the proper procedure. Bypassing them could lead to eventual damage. Everything else is soft and not made to support the weight of a finished car.

 

[ViaDale]

Including the pinch welds is the proper procedure. Bypassing them could lead to eventual damage. Everything else is soft and not made to support the weight of a finished car.

Thanks for the clarity, yet I can't seem to find that fact in print. (I seriously intend this response in the nicest way.) Reading through this entire post, poor-sha's post #140 is the closest that I can find (to fact), which states just inside the seem, not on it. Does anyone have definitive print as to where the lift pads need to land.

 

[MatthewAMEL]

This is a portion of GM Document: 5317423 Lifting the CT5

This is what I believe is being referred to:

 

[poor-sha]

This is a portion of GM Document: 5317423 Lifting the CT5

This is what I believe is being referred to:

View attachment 22474

Looking at the photos in the service manual and that language confirms for me that your lift pads should be next to the seam towards the centerline of the car, not under it.

 

[jbawden]

I disagree…it literally says to place the lift on the pinch weld flange on the front and on the body flange in the back. Inside the molding is the abs skirt.

 

[minn19]

One thing I’ll give the Germans (at least BMW and Porsche), they have specific pads that fit into corresponding lifting points. Much easier and safer than pinch welds. I’d pay extra $$$ for GM etc to design something similar instead of being lazy and sticking with the old design.