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Jacking up your Blackwing

Daijoubu said:
For an oil change, I was able to jack the car up pretty high from the front left jackpoint. I threw a jackstand under the car for safety, and was able to reach the plug and filter without any further lifting. I was able to swap the rear diff fluid without any lifting at all, but only before eating dinner (after a big meal would be a different story).
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I think ramps or the 6000 series Quickjacks are gonna be the way to go. Or a second jack as suggested earlier. My drivers side door has a small creak when opening it now which, I'm assuming, is from some twist of the unibody during my admittedly shoddy lifting? Haven't had time to pinpoint the creak to address it yet, but maybe some hard cornering or autox-ing will work it out. Might not be a result of some twist, but who knows.

UPDATE: It's the gloss black exterior trim piece rubbing against the driver side mirror trim. It's lifted up a bit and rubbing during door opening.
 
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I don't have my 4BW yet, but I'm also looking at how to get the car on jackstands for wheel changes, brake bleeds, etc. For the front, it looks like I would be able to lift via the front pinch weld with a slotted puck, and place a flat-heat jackstand on the unibody frame with the 2 large holes exposed, just behind the pinch weld.

For the rear, it is it not possible to jack up from the subframe just behind the rear diff? It does look recessed, but that is strong, thick steel. Lift that, and the rear should come up easily, allowing one to put jackstands on both sides in the rear. That's how I've lifted many cars in the past. The rear bumpers of both BWs slant up pretty high, so a long jack would be able to reach the rear subframe. Pucks may be required if it's recessed.

Obviously, I don't have the car yet, so I can't test out my theory. I'm just spitballing here.
 
Blackwing16 said:
View attachment 12090View attachment 12091
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Going back to my previous post, this is the rear subframe behind the rear diff I was referring to. Is it not physically possible to get a long, low profile jack to lift up from there? That would lift the rear which would easily allow you to place jackstands on the rear pinch weld/jack points at the same time.
 
almazing said:
Going back to my previous post, this is the rear subframe behind the rear diff I was referring to. Is it not physically possible to get a long, low profile jack to lift up from there? That would lift the rear which would easily allow you to place jackstands on the rear pinch weld/jack points at the same time.
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Jacking up your Blackwing

So, not for nothing, what was the point of your post? There is no adaptor - that‘s the whole darn point! Point of the post was that people were fussing over using the pinch weld that has been the jacking point for years. I don't find it a big deal to get an adapter for use with a floor jack...
www.cadillacvnet.com www.cadillacvnet.com

Anyplace else is at your risk. Don't use those large holes in the front or you could end up like this Jacking up your Blackwing
 
Dirkbg said:

Jacking up your Blackwing

So, not for nothing, what was the point of your post? There is no adaptor - that‘s the whole darn point! Point of the post was that people were fussing over using the pinch weld that has been the jacking point for years. I don't find it a big deal to get an adapter for use with a floor jack...
www.cadillacvnet.com www.cadillacvnet.com

Anyplace else is at your risk. Don't use those large holes in the front or you could end up like this Jacking up your Blackwing
Click to expand...

Ah darn. I saw a video from someone on this thread showing that he lifted from the rear via rear jack point which also lifts the front. I figured I could do that on both sides to get jackstands on the front pinch welds. Then use the rear subframe 'bar' to get the rear up and place jackstands on the rear jack points. Kinda convoluted and a PITA, but that's just how it is with some cars. I wouldn't really need to get the car that high up. Just high enough to get the wheels removed.
 
almazing said:
Ah darn. I saw a video from someone on this thread showing that he lifted from the rear via rear jack point which also lifts the front. I figured I could do that on both sides to get jackstands on the front pinch welds. Then use the rear subframe 'bar' to get the rear up and place jackstands on the rear jack points. Kinda convoluted and a PITA, but that's just how it is with some cars. I wouldn't really need to get the car that high up. Just high enough to get the wheels removed.
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Yeah, that was me. If I needed to get all wheels up, I would've used the rear subframe at the rear of the diff after getting the front on stands. For oil changes I plan to use ramps going forward.

For tire rotations and brake work I will probably use the front jacking points and figure out an alternate place to put the stands since the jack will be in the way. I'm not sure where to place the stands yet but I'll figure it out. I will likely buy stands with a flat support area and look for a solid point on the front subframe, but I'm not 100% sure yet.

I have a long, low-profile jack, so I will likely lift the rear from the support behind the diff to place jackstands at the rear jacking points.
 
I ran across this video(s) building ramps out of wood on your own. Not expensive and the ability to move the ramp part out of the way makes it looks interesting as a feature on the more expensive type ramps. For our cars maybe a 2x10 instead of 2x8.


update:
 
IMG_4752.jpeg


I bought a QuickJack TLX 5000 during the Memorial Day sale. Finally got it set up and did the first test lift on my 4. I bought the 1.5 inch blocks separately just in case. I lifted via the front pinch weld with a 3 inch block on top of the 1.5 inch block and lifted by the rear brace jack point also with a 3 inch block and 1.5 inch block. I made sure that the blocks would be centered before fully lifting. Since the car has a front rake, I will likely use the 2 inch block on top of the 1.5 inch for the rear points next time so it’s level.

I also bought the puck with the cutout but it’s too big to be used for the front and will get caught on the side skirt and likely destroy it. It will fit fine on the rear, however.

The longest part of this is getting everything lined up properly. Though it’ll go quicker the more and more I do it. So far, so good.

You don’t need specific pucks or anything since the dense rubber blocks will work just fine. It’s no different than using a jackstand. If anything, this is safer and less damaging to the pinch welds because it’s being supported by dense rubber rather than the bare metal of jackstand heads. In addition, the blocks are supporting a larger surface area whereas a jackstand only supports a very small area.
 
I've got a 7000 TLX? for the 5 BW (still too short so turn it sideways.) To help you next time, just 4 short strips of scotch tape to mark alignment for the ends of the units under the side skirts. Will save you significant time in aligning the units each time.
 
I need to get that for my cars. It will make cleaning and swapping wheels much easier. I will need one to support my 67 Caddy that weighs almost 4700 pounds. All 5 of my cars are over 4200 pounds each.
 
Im shaky on that thing for some reason? Oll schooolll jack and stands thing I guess. Sometimes, an analog guy in a digital world.
 
PrimeTime said:
Im shaky on that thing for some reason? Oll schooolll jack and stands thing I guess. Sometimes, an analog guy in a digital world.
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You can put jackstands under the upper platform for extra security. In the never event that it would fail, the platform would just fall and rest on the jackstands underneath.
 
PrimeTime said:
Im shaky on that thing for some reason? Oll schooolll jack and stands thing I guess. Sometimes, an analog guy in a digital world.
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I understand. I too use jack stands as a backup but it really isn't needed. So long as you pay attention and ensure the cams are engaged in the locks, the hydraulic cylinders could fail and the locks will still hold the car in place.
 
I love my Race Ramps and have had for years and years! Lightweight and easy to store. Thanks for sharing as I may get the extra heavy duty ones for my truck as I think I pushed my regular 3000lb ones recently based on the tread marks left by my AT4 🤔… oops
 

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