I’ve found the secret sauce (track pads)

[Mbar]

Several years ago, I’ve posted here about the Magic Pads (part 1) at the Camaro6 forum which were one of my favorite track pads for my 6Gen Camaro – Raybestos ST43. A lot have changed since then and Raybestos started to disappear from the track market. This review is based on the CT4 Blackwing.

As a background, I’ve been tracking various high horsepower / heavy cars in the past 10+ years and I’m currently running in the advance group with several organizations such as PCA and BMW.

A few months ago, I’ve seen a post about a new compound from EBC which claims to change the approach for track pads. They’ve created a pad using Sintered Technology, which is widely used in the motorcycle world, but have yet to be used for automobiles. This technology is supposed to increase pad life and to eliminate the bedding process (just drive 2 laps on the track and you are good to go).

In the past, I’ve used other track pads offered by EBC, but I’ve found them to be a better fit for lighter / lower HP cars.

I’ve been thru so many pads in the past years – from stock, Carbotech , Gloc, Ferodo , Pagid , PFC and more. These EBC SR series pads are THE NEW MAGIC PAD. I’ve chose to use the lower friction compound, SR11, which has a crazy linear torque curve (around 0.50 MU). These pads will smash your face into the windshield and are more than enough for aggressive street tires. If you are riding on slicks, you can try their SR21, but in my opinion, SR11 are already aggressive enough for 200TW tires and maybe even more. Modulation was pretty good for such high torque. It took me a couple of days of street driving to get used to it and I was good to go (in the Blackwing it’s better to set the brake pedal for track mode even for street driving).

Now – to the magic part: in the past, I would get no more than 4 days on a track pad. They would just get worn out / get tapered / create a bad rotor judder.

I’m happy to announce that after 3 hard days at VIR (very aggressive on pads), I’ve measured the pads and they lost anywhere from zero to 1 mm in thickness. My rotors lost 1-2 tenths of mm in thickness (similar to the wear I got after a track weekend with stock pads) and more than that – they didn’t even develop thin heat checks!

I’ve let a pro driver try these pads on my car for 1 session and he was pleasantly surprised.

All of this for a reasonable price of ~$300. I’m going to get a lifetime of these pads before they disappear…Please feel free to ask any question you might have.

The king is dead. Long live the new king!

PS- I've posted this review at the Camaro6 forum as well, since the 1LE is so similar to our cars.

 

[strohw]

What are the item codes front and rear? I tried using the parts finder on their site but the sr11 aren't showing up. I also don't trust online retailers with things like pad fitment. I always verify part numbers before ordering.

 

[Matt27]

You reference street driving; are you going to run these full time/do they work while cold? Or was that just testing and you'll swap to a more street-oriented pad?

 

[Mbar]

You reference street driving; are you going to run these full time/do they work while cold? Or was that just testing and you'll swap to a more street-oriented pad?

I was able to drive them in the street without any issues. They stop from cold. Clearly you will get better modulation for DD if you use the stock pads. I cannot tell if DD these track pads will shorten the rotor life.
Although the manufacturer recommends to use these track pads with a new / cleaned rotor, I had no judder / issues using them on my DD rotors and swap back to stock pads after the track weekend.

 

[Mbar]

What are the item codes front and rear? I tried using the parts finder on their site but the sr11 aren't showing up. I also don't trust online retailers with things like pad fitment. I always verify part numbers before ordering.

Pad for 4BW is:
Front: DP81853.15SR11
Rear: DP83023.15SR11

I used KNS Brakes for the rear pads. just use in the configuration 2019 Cadillac ATS-V
Importante note: The rear pads listed above (same as ATS-V / Camaro / Corvette C7) fit the 4BW caliper. However, it's not an exact match as I believe 4BW isn't using pad shape 1718 - we actually have the same rear pads as ZL1. I posted about this a few days ago.

 

[FrankRizzo]

Pad for 4BW is:
Front: DP81853.15SR11
Rear: DP83023.15SR11

I used KNS Brakes for the rear pads. just use in the configuration 2019 Cadillac ATS-V
Importante note: The rear pads listed above (same as ATS-V / Camaro / Corvette C7) fit the 4BW caliper. However, it's not an exact match as I believe 4BW isn't using pad shape 1718 - we actually have the same rear pads as ZL1. I posted about this a few days ago.

Thanks for this!

 

[almazing]

Thanks for these findings! I'm a Pagid RSL1/2/29 guy, but they don't make those pads for the ATS-V/4BW. Having a set of true endurance pads keeps costs way, way, way down since a set of endurance pads can last 10 or more events. I have experience with sintered metallic pads for cars in the form of Carbone Lorraine. I had a set of CL RC5s for my NC Miata back in the day and I loved them. Worked in all temperatures and all conditions. The advantages of having true metallic pads. But it seems like CL stopped making pads for new cars since the early 2010s.

Nearly every pad maker has gone to the organic route, so it's nice to see EBC with full on metallic sintered pads. Sintered pads don't really need to bed in like organic pads since they work off of straight pad surface to rotor surface friction rather than pad to rotor film. I would no longer have to bed in organic pads at 1am so I don't go to jail. This is great!

Buying these when I take delivery of my 4BW.

 

[strohw]

I ordered a set of these.

 

[almazing]

What did you do with the brake pad sensors? Just zip tie them off to the side somewhere?

 

[Mbar]

What did you do with the brake pad sensors? Just zip tie them off to the side somewhere?

Correct

 

[strohw]

I ordered from KNS since you mentioned them. They had front and rear in stock and I got them in 3 days.

 

[jodakid69]

Hello Mbar.

Thanks for the trackpad info. It would be great if someone with "Track Experience" provided a checklist breakdown on track prep/config for the CT4V-BW / CT5V-BW. I just did the Spring Mountain class and they had some info in the PowerPoint, but I know that the oil info from them is wrong ... SO what about the other info.

I am still a newbie with HPDE. I have been at NJMP with the CT4-V BW on three dry days and 1 wet day. I was doing sessions at 125+ I am coming from an M2 Comp and I had higher speeds on the BMW. I ran the stock setup on both cars. Overall I think that the M2 Comp was better on Track. I definitely had better stopping on the M2 and I do not really trust the CT4V-BW braking at high speed, I am full force on brakes when I pass the bridge. In all other areas, the CT4V-BW beats the M2 comp.

What about the brake fluid? I still have the stock fluid and wanted to change it out. I read a post that stated that I need to get the fluid changed at a Cadillac dealer because of the brake-by-wire config. One of the students at Spring Mountain said he is running StopTech STR-600 with custom pads. I am waiting for an email from him on his config. He said he makes high-speed runs at Watkins Glenn with his CT4V-BW 150+.

Spring Mountain is suggesting track alignment - Front Camber -2.4, Toe 0.1 / Rear Cabler -1.8, Toe 0.1

 

[Carguyshu]

Run track alignment and Castrol SRF fluid. You’ll only have to change fluid once a year with it. It’s expensive fluid, but only having to change that often saves a ton. You can also get lifetime replacement if you buy at fcpeuro. There’s already a post where someone put together a track prep guide based on owners manual. You can bleed it normal & be fine. Just disconnect battery first.

 

[jodakid69]

Run track alignment and Castrol SRF fluid. You’ll only have to change fluid once a year with it. It’s expensive fluid, but only having to change that often saves a ton. You can also get lifetime replacement if you buy at fcpeuro. There’s already a post where someone put together a track prep guide based on owners manual. You can bleed it normal & be fine. Just disconnect battery first.

Do you know how much brake fluid you need to perform the fluid change procedure? I am taking the parts - oil, oil filter, brake pads, and brake fluid to a local performance shop to do the work.

 

[almazing]

Do you know how much brake fluid you need to perform the fluid change procedure? I am taking the parts - oil, oil filter, brake pads, and brake fluid to a local performance shop to do the work.

I use an entire liter bottle when I switch to SRF for a complete flush. Coincidentally, the smallest bottle of SRF you can buy is exactly 1 liter.

 

[jodakid69]

I use an entire liter bottle when I switch to SRF for a complete flush. Coincidentally, the smallest bottle of SRF you can buy is exactly 1 liter.

Sweet! Thanks for the info

 

[Carguyshu]

I’d get a second bottle just in case. In my 5 I usually use 1 1/2.

 

[Mbar]

SRF is a great fluid. I use if for my track BMW E36. However, it can cause issues with modern ABS systems. Most people don’t see any issues.
I use Brembo LFC 600 as it was the fluid that was tested during the development of the Blackwing. It will not hold for a full year like the SRF.

 

[Carguyshu]

What issues? I’ve never had any on any ABS car I’ve owned including the first brake by wire system in the SL55

 

[Mbar]

A few race mechanics warned me that the unique viscosity of SRF might cause over triggering of the ABS. Mainly in modern BMWs. I personally never had issues with other cars.