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Manual trans owners--both 4 and 5

Like others, driven manuals all my life, the transmission and shifter are one of the best I have driven. I get a slight hitch into second on the first shift of the day and that's it. Sounds like you should take it to a dealer that has another one on the lot to compare it to.
 
@myfirstcadillac. I did not drive it much over the winter, but it is a little better. If driven hard (high rpm/forceful shifts) its good. Driven normally but only shifting above 3k with a firm hand and its OK. Driven easy/just cruising around it sucks. It is annoying because like you said, I feel like I have to be conscious of how I shift all the time rather than just driving and enjoying the car. I plan on trying Mobil 1 synth ATF soon but I don't expect it will make much difference. From everything I've read, its just the nature of the Tremec--you either get a good one, or you get a temperamental one. I've been getting intermittent "service SRS" and "service door latch systems" messages lately so I'll likely take it in soon, but I'm not expecting a fix.
 
Consider Tremec HP-MTF or Redline D4. I plan to use the D4 when the time comes for a change. But I suspect this won’t have much impact on your situation. My 5BW with 3K miles is silky smooth.
 
Thanks for the replies. I did drive another 4VBW manual at a local dealer before driving to CT to get mine. The one I drove locally did shift better but the dealer wanted too much for it. My enthusiasm when I went to CT got the best of me and the temp was a bit cold so I didn’t think much of it. It’s not horrible, just not as good as it should be. I’m still in the break in period so I haven’t pushed above 4,000 rpm. Trying to get scheduled for Spring Mountain driving school to see what one drives like there. Two days on track should give me a better indication of how the shifter should feel.
 
In general Tremec 6-speeds all feel notchy until they are warmed up, especially 2nd gear. It will probably get a little smoother as well as you break it in a bit.
 
If driven hard (high rpm/forceful shifts) its good. Driven normally but only shifting above 3k with a firm hand and its OK. Driven easy/just cruising around it sucks.

I'm a "gentle shifter" as well, and came into BW ownership after 39 straight years of owning manuals - with 35 of those years being exclusively manual. I was initially struggling with the car. Your observations are much like my own.

I'm now have over 2000 miles pretty much the only real issue I still have is the 1-2 upshift before it is warmed up. I have to consciously rev it 1,000 rpm higher than it would otherwise need to be revved.

I've found it can be shifted pretty gently, but does not like shifting slowly. You don't have to force it into gear, but you can't tarry between the gates. Do the thing.

Downshifts, of course, are cake. At least until after that first downshift of the day when you discover (yet again) that you did not turn rev-matching on. (Please GM ....)
 
My shifter is pretty good however at times when putting it in to first it feels like it's fully engaged when it's not. Once i try to let out the clutch the shifter will pop out of first.
 
It's been so long since I've driven my 5BW I forgot how it shifts... Guess I should uncover her and take her out for a flogging...
 
:(

That is so sad...........
 
I just got my confirmation for Spring Mountain Cadillac Owner's Academy. I will be driving a 4BW manual when I am there so that will give me a good comparison. I will also pick the brains of the mechanics when I am out there since they are exposed to a bunch of these cars.
 
My '22 4v BW is the 10sp auto / my '15 Chevy SS had the 6sp MT = when it was new, I read changing the gear lube would help... I did that AND it surely did help. You may ask Cadillac to exchange the trans gear lube and go from there.
 
I thought this was an interesting read. https://www.tremec.com/not_am_detalle/mp-mtf-transmission-fluid/

My takeaway is Tremec's public stance is "use the OEM fluid...buuuutt, the Tremec HP-MTF is pretty dang good stuff because the same folks that designed the transmission are the same ones that detailed the fluid specifications."
 
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I have swapped to the HP-MTF in every -6060 car I have owned. It's what TREMEC says to use if you buy the 'Magnum' (retail name for the TR-6060).

The GM fluid is a cost saving measure. The HP-MTF behaves like a MT fluid should. You fill the case up with no requirement to do the 1/8" drain procedure.

 

I have swapped to the HP-MTF in every -6060 car I have owned. It's what TREMEC says to use if you buy the 'Magnum' (retail name for the TR-6060).

The GM fluid is a cost saving measure. The HP-MTF behaves like a MT fluid should. You fill the case up with no requirement to do the 1/8" drain procedure.

Have you noticed any changes in shift quality? I swapped to Valvoline Dextron III because Tremec told me to use Dextron III and the Cadillac owners manual also said Dextron III. I have seen the HP-MTF article before but have been afraid to switch to it for fear of voiding my warranty.
 
Have you noticed any changes in shift quality? I swapped to Valvoline Dextron III because Tremec told me to use Dextron III and the Cadillac owners manual also said Dextron III. I have seen the HP-MTF article before but have been afraid to switch to it for fear of voiding my warranty.
I live in Florida, so not really any ‘cold weather’ shifts.

I did notice consistent shift feel during street and track use.

Blackstone reports come back stellar.

If you are considering the switch, keep in mind you can’t get all the transmission fluid out at once. You have the fluid in the cooler lines and the cooler itself. I switched fluid, ran a weekend, switched again. That got most of it.
 
If you are considering the switch, keep in mind you can’t get all the transmission fluid out at once. You have the fluid in the cooler lines and the cooler itself. I switched fluid, ran a weekend, switched again. That got most of it.
Are you sure about that. The rear diff for example has a closed loop system with a heat exchanger inside the diff.
 
My car is currently at the dealer having the following issue looked at (sound is required):

While it seems obvious in the video, it actually took a long time to diagnose this rattling sound because it appeared to come from the dashboard area. Once I discovered I could make it stop by putting my hand on the shifter, it all made sense. The rattle is most prevalent in 2nd or 4th gears between 2k and 3k RPM but it happens in other gears too.
 
Are you sure about that. The rear diff for example has a closed loop system with a heat exchanger inside the diff.
Not sure what you are saying. The coolers are external to the diff and the transmission. Would be pointless to have them inside the component you are trying to cool. Unless I am misunderstanding what you are saying.

If you look at the capacities section, you will see two listed. One for the diff and one for the diff+cooler. Same for the transmission.
 

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