Lost All Power

[Ybeezy]

So I went to pick up my MiL, jumped in and pressed the ignition start button and suddenly all power died. Not a single light or switch works. Not sure what the issue could be but I'm as far from an auto mechanic as can be. I'm currently charging my battery jumper so just looking for some thoughts or opinions before I try that.

Something I noticed before the power went out...the Ignition button was slightly stiffer than usual. Almost like it was slightly stuck and it made an audible click noise when pressed. Mileage is currently 1440.

Also, is it better to contact roadside assistance and have them tow it? Not sure if local dealers usually offer that themselves.

 

[rdollie]

Hopefully just a weak (not dead) battery. I'd definitely try jumping it before calling any tow truck.

 

[Speed Racer 007]

Hopefully just a weak (not dead) battery. I'd definitely try jumping it before calling any tow truck.

x1

If not, then yes, roadside assistance to the rescue. Good luck

 

[Ybeezy]

Hopefully just a weak (not dead) battery. I'd definitely try jumping it before calling any tow truck.

Welp, after charging the charger, I connected to the front battery terminals but got absolutely nothing. After doing some more digging, I found some vids on escalade rear negative connectors having issues so I wanted to check out the rear battery. With no power, I had to fold down the seats, take a bunch of crap out that I've been meaning to take to storage, and climb my big ass into the trunk to pull the emergency handle. Lo and behold, the negative terminal connector was completely DETACHED (pic below). Placing it back on to the battery fixed her right up but it looks like the connector is twisted and doesn't seem like it can be tightened further. I will most likely have the dealer look into it whenever I get around to my first oil change.


tl:dr check your rear battery connectors

 

[GTANotch88]

Wow, interesting.

As a comparison, on my 5bw, the bolt on the negative terminal sticks out way more. Enough that I was able to add my battery tender leads with an additional nylon locknut. So yea, I suspect it got tightened incorrectly and they thought it was all the way tight but just barely holding on.

 

[Berserker]

Well, that's another thing people can add to their delivery checklists.

It will give them something to do when they find themselves locked in their backseats because the doors won't open from the inside ...

 

[pkincy]

Although the cause sucks, it is probably as easy of a fix as any problem could be. Does anybody have any idea how to actually get at that battery? It appears there are a couple of pull plugs up by the left trunk support that need to be pulled and then the trunklining can be pulled back. My 4073 mil 2022 is getting a new battery at the dealer tomorrow. The battery has run down to 4 v three times and now maxs out at 305 CCAs. Tonite it is being tested for parasitic draw. Tomorrow morning they will put a battery in it assuming no other electrical problems are found.

 

[GTANotch88]

there a hard plastic door over the battery, about the size of the battery.

edit: i assume you mean how you get it out. not just access it, my bad, lol

 

[pkincy]

Actually no. The door is about half the size of the battery.

 

[GTANotch88]

yea, I caught that after I hit post.

Heres a video for an ats battery replacement, seem overly complicated.

 

[pkincy]

Besides the small access there is a whole lot attached to that battery particularly that positive terminal. Glad the dealer is changing it out. Thanks for the video. I had my 18 ATS-V for 4 years but the battery never needed replacing.

 

[Deneed4spd]

I just pulled at the fabric part so hard that I was able to wedge the top battery cover off. Of course that cause the fabric part to separate from the plastic frame. A little gorilla glue fixed it all up. But yes, taking that plastic cover is ridiculous