Jacking up your Blackwing

[dinkman]

GM should be embarrased this thread is on page 19 and still going

 

[raptor5244]

GM should be embarrased this thread is on page 19 and still going

They don't want us working on our own cars.

 

[Tall Steve]

They don't want us working on our own cars.

My hands are to soft and smooth to work on my own car!

 

[AtrociKitty]

GM should be embarrased this thread is on page 19 and still going

I honestly didn't think it was that complicated, at least for a 4BW. I used a regular grooved hockey puck pad when I swapped my wheels and had no issues. I fit the groove on the rear chassis brace, and I used it as a regular pad on the front flat. This thread had me worried I missed something, but I really think some of you are overthinking it. Just avoid the carbon and you'll be fine.

 

[Tall Steve]

I honestly didn't think it was that complicated, at least for a 4BW. I used a regular grooved hockey puck pad when I swapped my wheels and had no issues. I fit the groove on the rear chassis brace, and I used it as a regular pad on the front flat. This thread had me worried I missed something, but I really think some of you are overthinking it. Just avoid the carbon and you'll be fine.

I like your thinking!

 

[dinkman]

I honestly didn't think it was that complicated, at least for a 4BW. I used a regular grooved hockey puck pad when I swapped my wheels and had no issues. I fit the groove on the rear chassis brace, and I used it as a regular pad on the front flat. This thread had me worried I missed something, but I really think some of you are overthinking it. Just avoid the carbon and you'll be fine.

thats good to hear. i was starting to worry that i really needed to read 19 pages!

 

[rubberduck]

GM should be embarrased this thread is on page 19 and still going

From what I’ve seen it’s largely not a GM issue.

 

[jbawden]

If you can't use a pinch weld adapter to lift your BW, you probably should not be doing any services to the car in the first place.

I think the reason we're at 20 pages is people trying to purposely leave tools on their cars when they aren't working on them in the form of pinch weld adapters that are purportedly permanently attached to the car. Walk any track and you'll find these in the run off areas.

 

[rubberduck]

You won't find mine on the track because I'm not going to be on the track. I prefer to have them installed so a numb skull that may need to jack up my car doesn't F it up.

 

[MookdocOE]

You won't find mine on the track because I'm not going to be on the track. I prefer to have them installed so a numb skull that may need to jack up my car doesn't F it up.

Yup! Take it to a dealer if you want to see what can be done? Not in a good way either! I liked your setup with the RennStand? I think I might go that route!

 

[turbotaz]

Thanks to this thread, I have been hesitant to even attempt doing my own seasonal tire swap on my 5BW as I have done on my past cars, but just decided to go for it. I first tried the method listed here for the 4BW in this thread but found that the magnetic puck would not fit around the plastic piece next to the pinch weld. So I followed Mirza's advice by getting this Home Depot block of wood and having them cut it to size. Seemed to work ok for both front and rear.

 

[thefleshrocket]

Thanks to this thread, I have been hesitant to even attempt doing my own seasonal tire swap on my 5BW as I have done on my past cars, but just decided to go for it. I first tried the method listed here for the 4BW in this thread but found that the magnetic puck would not fit around the plastic piece that next to the pinch weld. So I followed Mirza's advice by getting this Home Depot block of wood and having them cut it to size. Seemed to work ok for both front and rear.

I just notched the plastic piece near the pinch weld so that the ZL1 add-ons pucks would fit.

 

[Orange Whip]

Thanks to this thread, I have been hesitant to even attempt doing my own seasonal tire swap on my 5BW as I have done on my past cars, but just decided to go for it. I first tried the method listed here for the 4BW in this thread but found that the magnetic puck would not fit around the plastic piece next to the pinch weld. So I followed Mirza's advice by getting this Home Depot block of wood and having them cut it to size. Seemed to work ok for both front and rear.

Thanks for the pictures. Where you did put your jack stands?

 

[turbotaz]

Didn't need them in my case, I have a separate set of wheels for the winter, so I just did one wheel at a time.

 

[nelson]

Hi everyone, I just read the first 5 pages of this thread and then realized its 20 pages long! I usually do my own tire swaps and need to get all seasons on the 5BW and just started searching for the jacking points and stumbled upon here. Is there a TLDR on what part or tool I need in addition to my jack and jack stands to be successful here? I've never had such a "nice" car so I've always just jacked directly on the pinch welds but I'm guessing there isn't clearance and I don't want to break something. I also don't want the kid at discount to break something either!

 

[Deneed4spd]

If it’s that fancy of a car, you have to put in those 20 pages!!

 

[jdwk]

I have a CT5. I read all 20 pages. I placed my hockey pucks just inside the pinch weld as depicted in a few of the posts here. I have pads with slots for the pinch welds but I did not want to lift with the plastic of my rockers or cut it as some have done.

As for jack stands, I figured the steel frame rails which are doubled layered should be strong enough to support the car.

It did not appear to deform at all and supported the car just fine. I do have two jacks so I can lift the car up and lower it relatively evenly onto the stands.

For the rear I used the rear cross member as some have posted here. Yes, it is pretty narrow between the exhaust but it felt plenty stable. However, I also wanted to replace my diff fluid and the jack stands were in the way, so I just put the car back down and backed onto my race ramps to drain the diff. I lifted the front back up to try to level the car so it would still drain properly.

Really hoping that by the next time I do this I have a two post.

 

[CT4-Villain]

As a former 6gen Camaro, I thought it would be simple to jack up my 4BW. It seems I was wrong. The pinch weld area is very narrow and plastic moldings are in the way. I tried to lift the car with both floor jack and a 2 post lift. It’s not an easy task…
I purchased the ZL1 Addon (Camaro) jack pads…they do not fit…
I finally came up with an interesting idea. Not the best, but so far the most ideal- I used the yellow spring spacers that came with the car. See pics below. Also a generic BMW rectangular jack pad seems to fit in the front hole.
Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.

 

[CT4-Villain]

As a former 6gen Camaro, I thought it would be simple to jack up my 4BW. It seems I was wrong. The pinch weld area is very narrow and plastic moldings are in the way. I tried to lift the car with both floor jack and a 2 post lift. It’s not an easy task…
I purchased the ZL1 Addon (Camaro) jack pads…they do not fit…
I finally came up with an interesting idea. Not the best, but so far the most ideal- I used the yellow spring spacers that came with the car. See pics below. Also a generic BMW rectangular jack pad seems to fit in the front hole.
Your thoughts and experience are appreciated.

Thanks GM for this absolutely stupid design on the jackpoints, I'm no engineer but I could have come up with something far better than this !

 

[shbox]

Thanks GM for this absolutely stupid design on the jackpoints, I'm no engineer but I could have come up with something far better than this !

Don't understand the fuss. Manufacturers have been using pinch weld locations for jack points for a very long time.