CT4 BW BC Forged 19s

[WONT TAP]

What’s the difficulty removing the stock wheel studs and replacing with your longer 2.5” studs? I’ve done this in the past on other vehicles and it was just taking a mini sledge to hammer them loose. I’d feel much better about having the longer studs installed in lieu of the shank lugs I’m currently running. Ultimately, I don’t want to give this a go, not be able to remove all 10 stock studs and mess the threads leaving me unable to drive.😂

Replacing the wheel studs isn't bad at all on these cars. These are a perfect fit, with an overall length of 2.5”, providing ¼” more threads than OEM wheel studs.

Tapout Tuning Wheel Studs (set of 10) - Tapout Tuning

These press-in wheel studs are 14 x 1.50 mm RH thread. Overall length is 2.5”, providing ¼” more threads than OEM wheel studs. Sold in sets of 10.

www.tapouttuning.com

 

[Hdixon46-559]

Replacing the wheel studs isn't bad at all on these cars. These are a perfect fit, with an overall length of 2.5”, providing ¼” more threads than OEM wheel studs.

Tapout Tuning Wheel Studs (set of 10) - Tapout Tuning

These press-in wheel studs are 14 x 1.50 mm RH thread. Overall length is 2.5”, providing ¼” more threads than OEM wheel studs. Sold in sets of 10.

www.tapouttuning.com

Very much appreciate the reply! Submitting my order now.

 

[jonnywaffles11]

All I can say is...check those wheels often for fatigue fractures.

fractures should be easy to check for. In the dash cluster you can add a g meter, get the readout to be roughly 1.2G then lock up all four wheels. Once you have pulled yourself out of the wall, you can look down at the now 3 piece (bonus points for anythig over 3) wheels and view the very distinct fractures throughout.

 

[WONT TAP]

Very much appreciate the reply! Submitting my order now.

We'll watch for your order, and get it shipped right out.

 

[1BadTundra]

Hey Guys, thoughts on this setup? I dont wanna rub. Ideally, 265/30/19 up front, 285/30/19 out back. Thoughts?

 

[Hdixon46-559]

fractures should be easy to check for. In the dash cluster you can add a g meter, get the readout to be roughly 1.2G then lock up all four wheels. Once you have pulled yourself out of the wall, you can look down at the now 3 piece (bonus points for anythig over 3) wheels and view the very distinct fractures throughout.

I’ll give it a shot and let you know how it goes. Pictures or it didn’t happen right?

 

[shiftdown]

Hey Guys, thoughts on this setup? I dont wanna rub. Ideally, 265/30/19 up front, 285/30/19 out back. Thoughts?

+45 on the back with a 10.5 is pretty low offset for these cars. Is there a +50 option?

 

[1BadTundra]

Its +45 on a 10.5" wheel, opposed to a +48 on a 9.5" OEM wheel. That where I was hoping for a little clarification. They don't offer a 50, I can do 45 or I think the next closest is 30.

 

[shiftdown]

Its +45 on a 10.5" wheel, opposed to a +48 on a 9.5" OEM wheel. That where I was hoping for a little clarification. They don't offer a 50, I can do 45 or I think the next closest is 30.

there's 25mm in an inch, so figure half of that goes to the offset. So a +45 on a 10.5j would be like +35 on a 9.5j

 

[1BadTundra]

Here is the difference on 1010tires calculator... I did the front and the rear. This is based of my OE Bronze 18's. My push is, winter is coming and I live in PA. Our roads arent the best, and while I have no intention of driving in bad conditions, rain can turn to snow in a minute here, and I dont want her penned up in the garage

 

[flipray]

Hey Guys, thoughts on this setup? I dont wanna rub. Ideally, 265/30/19 up front, 285/30/19 out back. Thoughts?View attachment 13708

Those rears will sit exactly where my 19x11 +52 would sit poke wise. Hopefully it clears the brakes. Wont really know until you put the rears on. You can probably go wider width wise on the tires 275 up front and 295 in the rears. Hell, I'd even go 305s since thats the same poke as my wheels and thats what I had.

 

[Dubbed.theB]

I'm looking at 10.5 with a +22 for the rear... Probably just going to a 285 tire. Would that be too much poke? I feel like that's going to stick past the fenders too much. I spent way too many years in the VW/Audi community, I like flush, but caliper interference scares me.
Also, a lot of sites tend to have 5x115 as our bolt pattern, I thought this was a 5x120?

Edit: I didn't see your reply with the other offsets that looks more in line with what I was thinking.
My preferred setup is going to be:
F: 19x9.5 +22
R: 19x10.5 +46

 

[Artide]

Here is the difference on 1010tires calculator... I did the front and the rear. This is based of my OE Bronze 18's. My push is, winter is coming and I live in PA. Our roads arent the best, and while I have no intention of driving in bad conditions, rain can turn to snow in a minute here, and I dont want her penned up in the garage

Were you able to get your set? I spoke to Apex and BC Forged and they are telling me very different fitments on the rears. I'm trying to put 19s on in 10.5 or 11 and BC said 19x11 +55 while Apex said the 19 x 11 wont fit without rub on our cars but the 19x10 +40 is their preference.

 

[1BadTundra]

This is the route I'm leaning toward now. I'm thinking of putting my bronze wheels on the rack and using these 365. Sorry for the PDF, It's a lot of data.

 

[Artide]

Nice! Looks very similar to the Apex VS-5RS that I was looking at but I wanted to know if anyone was able to get them tucked in the rear without spacers at a 11 or 10.5 wide wheel with what offset.

 

[1BadTundra]

Nice! Looks very similar to the Apex VS-5RS that I was looking at but I wanted to know if anyone was able to get them tucked in the rear without spacers at a 11 or 10.5 wide wheel with what offset.

For a 10.5" it looks like you would need a 48mm minimum to sit flush with the body. just my math... I measured roughly 13mm spacing from the stock rear wheel to the edge of the well. and here is the wheel specs.