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CT4 BW BC Forged 19s

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V-Series Cadillac(s)?
'22 CT4 BW, '98 Lancer Evo5
Found on facebook marketplace.

BC Forged RT50 on brushed bronze. 19x9.5 and 19x11 rears
Rears are +52 and fronts at +28 plus running 15mm spacers on front

IMO 19x9.5 +30 F and 19x11 +45ish rear would be about perfect
 

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Found on facebook marketplace.

BC Forged RT50 on brushed bronze. 19x9.5 and 19x11 rears
Rears are +52 and fronts at +28 plus running 15mm spacers on front

IMO 19x9.5 +30 F and 19x11 +45ish rear would be about perfect
Its my car. You dont wanna go +45. Tapout Scott is running +45 in the rear and its pokes out noticeably with 305s. +52 is good, maybe push down to +50. 305s are pretty square on the 11j wheels.
Fronts, with my 15mm spacers, im effectively +13. Think 5mm less would be better since im running 265s up front right now and really want to go 275 or even 285.
 
Its my car. You dont wanna go +45. Tapout Scott is running +45 in the rear and its pokes out noticeably with 305s. +52 is good, maybe push down to +50. 305s are pretty square on the 11j wheels.
Fronts, with my 15mm spacers, im effectively +13. Think 5mm less would be better since im running 265s up front right now and really want to go 275 or even 285.
FLIPRAY, did you get any rubbing or have to cut plastic parts?
 
Awesome. I'm about to pull the trigger on a set up. Final ? Did BC send along the appropriate lug bolts or did you have to purchase separately due to the spacer?
Flange type ? Length?
 
FLIPRAY, did you get any rubbing or have to cut plastic parts?
Very interested in what you find, I am looking for a track fitment with maximum rubber. Would prefer 18s but if you find a good 19" solution I might to go that route so I have them.
 
Awesome. I'm about to pull the trigger on a set up. Final ? Did BC send along the appropriate lug bolts or did you have to purchase separately due to the spacer?
Flange type ? Length?
I had some conical narrow lug nuts that I had laying around from my old V. Didnt wanna use the stock lugs since they're huge and worried I might scratch the wheel.
Very interested in what you find, I am looking for a track fitment with maximum rubber. Would prefer 18s but if you find a good 19" solution I might to go that route so I have them.
If you want 18s, 18x10 +18 with 275/35-18 and 18x11 +55 305/35-18 R888R.
 
You dont wanna go +45. Tapout Scott is running +45 in the rear and its pokes out noticeably with 305s. .
My CCWs are 19 x 11 (+55), with 10 mm. spacers, making the effective offset +45 mm. But I don't think it pokes excessively.

CCW Wheels Installed 05.jpg
 
My CT4 BW with Forgeline GA1R’s
19X9.5 +25 front on 275’s
19X10.5 +57 rear on 295’s
Turns lock to lock as normal and no issues with rubbing in the rear. Lowered 7/8”-1” on all four using Swift Springs. Front has a 1/4” spacer and rear has a 1/2”. Would rather been able to using only a 1/4” spacer for the rear but needed 1/2” to clear the caliper. Wheels were originally built for a CTSV so I’m assuming this is the variable of with the caliper ordeal. Had issues once I went to a 1/2” spacer where the stock lug nut couldn’t catch any thread on the stock stud length. Ended up grabbing a shank style lug nut with a 3/4” depth that worked perfect. Issue #2, OD of the shank lug was 3/4” & ID of the bolt hole on the wheel was only 5/8”. Grabbed step bit with a 3/4” max tolerance and got to drilling. Wheels fit perfect now.
 

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I'm looking at 10.5 with a +22 for the rear... Probably just going to a 285 tire. Would that be too much poke? I feel like that's going to stick past the fenders too much. I spent way too many years in the VW/Audi community, I like flush, but caliper interference scares me.
Also, a lot of sites tend to have 5x115 as our bolt pattern, I thought this was a 5x120?
 
I'm looking at 10.5 with a +22 for the rear... Probably just going to a 285 tire. Would that be too much poke? I feel like that's going to stick past the fenders too much. I spent way too many years in the VW/Audi community, I like flush, but caliper interference scares me.
Also, a lot of sites tend to have 5x115 as our bolt pattern, I thought this was a 5x120?
Not 100% sure tbh - I think the wheel design may be a factor in the clearance? Could be wrong though.
I believe the stock rear wheel offset is +48 X 9.5”. If they’re custom wheels, I’d call the rep to confirm clearance and get their confirmation in writing/email before pulling the trigger on the order. Just to protect yourself in case they don’t fit, you wouldn’t be stuck with them considering you were told they would clear.
Base models of the CT4’s are 5X115. Our BW’s are confirmed at 5X120.
 
My CCWs are 19 x 11 (+55), with 10 mm. spacers, making the effective offset +45 mm. But I don't think it pokes excessively.

View attachment 13552
What’s the difficulty removing the stock wheel studs and replacing with your longer 2.5” studs? I’ve done this in the past on other vehicles and it was just taking a mini sledge to hammer them loose. I’d feel much better about having the longer studs installed in lieu of the shank lugs I’m currently running. Ultimately, I don’t want to give this a go, not be able to remove all 10 stock studs and mess the threads leaving me unable to drive.😂
 
My CT4 BW with Forgeline GA1R’s
19X9.5 +25 front on 275’s
19X10.5 +57 rear on 295’s
Turns lock to lock as normal and no issues with rubbing in the rear. Lowered 7/8”-1” on all four using Swift Springs. Front has a 1/4” spacer and rear has a 1/2”. Would rather been able to using only a 1/4” spacer for the rear but needed 1/2” to clear the caliper. Wheels were originally built for a CTSV so I’m assuming this is the variable of with the caliper ordeal. Had issues once I went to a 1/2” spacer where the stock lug nut couldn’t catch any thread on the stock stud length. Ended up grabbing a shank style lug nut with a 3/4” depth that worked perfect. Issue #2, OD of the shank lug was 3/4” & ID of the bolt hole on the wheel was only 5/8”. Grabbed step bit with a 3/4” max tolerance and got to drilling. Wheels fit perfect now.
Your car looks great, but drilling the wheels instead of just getting longer studs is super f-ing sketchy.
 
Your car looks great, but drilling the wheels instead of just getting longer studs is super f-ing sketchy.
Agreed. Thankfully there’s still over an inch of sidewall on the concave section before it runs into the spoke of the rim + the OD of the shank lug matching within a 1/32 of the stud hole ID. We had this on a jig / press to accurate drill these to insure everything was level. This was definitely not the first option, but coming from a hot rod type application, this is where the idea came from.
 
Agreed. Thankfully there’s still over an inch of sidewall on the concave section before it runs into the spoke of the rim + the OD of the shank lug matching within a 1/32 of the stud hole ID. We had this on a jig / press to accurate drill these to insure everything was level. This was definitely not the first option, but coming from a hot rod type application, this is where the idea came from.
All I can say is...check those wheels often for fatigue fractures.
 
Not 100% sure tbh - I think the wheel design may be a factor in the clearance? Could be wrong though.
I believe the stock rear wheel offset is +48 X 9.5”. If they’re custom wheels, I’d call the rep to confirm clearance and get their confirmation in writing/email before pulling the trigger on the order. Just to protect yourself in case they don’t fit, you wouldn’t be stuck with them considering you were told they would clear.
Base models of the CT4’s are 5X115. Our BW’s are confirmed at 5X120.
That's a good idea.. I'll reach out and see if they can do that. Worst case, I own a detailing shop, maybe they will "promo" one to me to ensure fitment before committing.
 

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