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Blackwing Maintenance Regimen

I’m curious, does the 4BW still require 0W40 for track use? The C7 was that way.
I am not sure on the 4BW LF4 motor. I haven't seen anything posted other than the standard 5W-30 Dexos1.

The factory fill on the LT1/LT2/LT4 motors is now 0W-40 ESP Dexos2, which is approved for both street and track. You can also use 15W-50 on the track and is actually required on the ZL1-1LE when on track but you need to switch back to 0W-40 for street use.
 
I am not sure on the 4BW LF4 motor. I haven't seen anything posted other than the standard 5W-30 Dexos1.

The factory fill on the LT1/LT2/LT4 motors is now 0W-40 ESP Dexos2, which is approved for both street and track. You can also use 15W-50 on the track and is actually required on the ZL1-1LE when on track but you need to switch back to 0W-40 for street use.
That’s bc of the g force the ZL1-1le makes. 15w-50 is unnecessary on the BW at the track
 
Took my CT5 in to the dealer for a break-in change at around 900 miles a few weeks ago, and the invoice worksheet shows that they used GM Part 88862479, which is the Mobil 1 Euro Car formula 0W-40. How much should I care that they didn't use the Dexos2 spec ESP blend from a technical perspective (beyond it just being incorrect)?

From looking at the camaro and vette forums, it looks like this happens with some regularity. Difference in the oils appears to be primarily in the additive pack of Sulfated Ash content and Phosphorus mass.
 
Took my CT5 in to the dealer for a break-in change at around 900 miles a few weeks ago, and the invoice worksheet shows that they used GM Part 88862479, which is the Mobil 1 Euro Car formula 0W-40. How much should I care that they didn't use the Dexos2 spec ESP blend from a technical perspective (beyond it just being incorrect)?

From looking at the camaro and vette forums, it looks like this happens with some regularity. Difference in the oils appears to be primarily in the additive pack of Sulfated Ash content and Phosphorus mass.
I’d complain and get them to put the correct oil in. The owners manual spells it out pretty clearly. Putting in non recommend oil that doesn’t meet the spec they ask for seems unwise. It’s pretty ridiculous a dealer would put in non recommended oil in a car under warranty.
 

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I’d complain and get them to put the correct oil in. The owners manual spells it out pretty clearly. Putting in non recommend oil that doesn’t meet the spec they ask for seems unwise. It’s pretty ridiculous a dealer would put in non recommended oil in a car under warranty.

As a prior ZL1 (LT4) owner I agree. The engine calls for 0W-40 ESP Dexos 2 spec, which is about $10 per quart vs. the $6.49.

You can use the Euro ESP Dexos2 stuff as seen on the label here but it is supposed to be Dexos2, which costs more and only comes in 1qt bottles.

Screen Shot 2022-08-27 at 3.55.48 PM.png
 
Took my CT5 in to the dealer for a break-in change at around 900 miles a few weeks ago, and the invoice worksheet shows that they used GM Part 88862479, which is the Mobil 1 Euro Car formula 0W-40. How much should I care that they didn't use the Dexos2 spec ESP blend from a technical perspective (beyond it just being incorrect)?

From looking at the camaro and vette forums, it looks like this happens with some regularity. Difference in the oils appears to be primarily in the additive pack of Sulfated Ash content and Phosphorus mass.
If you did that, it'd be a breach of warranty.
 
Took my CT5 in to the dealer for a break-in change at around 900 miles a few weeks ago, and the invoice worksheet shows that they used GM Part 88862479, which is the Mobil 1 Euro Car formula 0W-40. How much should I care that they didn't use the Dexos2 spec ESP blend from a technical perspective (beyond it just being incorrect)?

From looking at the camaro and vette forums, it looks like this happens with some regularity. Difference in the oils appears to be primarily in the additive pack of Sulfated Ash content and Phosphorus mass.
I could pay for a package of oil changes at the dealer for $60/change, and I'd rather spend $100/change and do it at home. Between this crap, and the time it takes to drive to the dealer, wait, and drive home, it's worth $40 to me.
 
I could pay for a package of oil changes at the dealer for $60/change, and I'd rather spend $100/change and do it at home. Between this crap, and the time it takes to drive to the dealer, wait, and drive home, it's worth $40 to me.
And you know it will be done right. :) I did my own first oil change and have 2 cases of oil and a case of filters for when I need the next ones.
 
And you know it will be done right. :) I did my own first oil change and have 2 cases of oil and a case of filters for when I need the next ones.
Exactly. I'm scarred from my Chevy SS getting 5 quarts of 0W-20 when it required 8 quarts of 5W-30. The entry level position at a dealer service department is the lube tech.
 
Exactly. I'm scarred from my Chevy SS getting 5 quarts of 0W-20 when it required 8 quarts of 5W-30. The entry level position at a dealer service department is the lube tech.
I am scarred from the time the dealer did my first oil change on my Camaro SS 1LE and they pulled it into a parking spot and scraped up the bottom of the front splitter and then when I got home there was oil dripping on the floor in my driveway. I drove right back and they said the previous oil filter gasket was stuck and they screwed the new filter right on top by mistake. So I had two oil filter gaskets without a proper seal.

That is some free first oil change...

I bought some race ramps and do all my cars myself now. I enjoy doing it except for the trip to Autozone to recycle the old oil. :)
 
In regards to the 4BW, manual says change the oil when either the light comes on, 7500mi, or time-wise not more than a year.

My favorite thing to do is to head to Wal-Mart and get my favorite oil: Pennzoil Platinum which are one of the very few true synthetic oils made from natural gas, and depending on how good the factory oil filter is, I might get a high quality one from Mobil one while I'm at it.

GM says the break-in period is 1500 miles. I personally like to do the initial oil change around 500 miles on all my cars. Get rid of all those new engine wear particles, all the silicone and sealants involved in the assembly process(mixing itself into the oil), and then do oil changes religiously at 5k intervals, which should be very generous in my usage case and the high quality of the oil being used. Cheap insurance for ensuring engine longevity.

I use reviews of the dealership service department to find one with not only the best service possible, but the best service advisor and develop a relationship with them. They can make or break the experience when dealing with the ups and downs of owning a high performance car that will probably make unexpected service visits, especially on a 1st/2nd model year car. They can either be your advocate when dealing with the manufacturer on warranty issues, or they can just throw your ass to the wolves if you're an asshole.

So what's everyone's plan on maintaining these vehicles? Factory service and fluids, or DIY because you trust only yourself?
Going to my first service tomorrow morning in my 2023 ct4 blackwing what items are required to make sure I discuss and try to make good relationship with the service adviser?
 
The GM oil change algorithm is pretty sophisticated and very well engineered. I know when they developed it they ran a vette motor the equivalent of 100k at exactly 55 mph on a single oil change and the oil came back from lab testing that it still had life left and the motor showed pretty much no wear. RPM, load, temp, etc. all play large roles in how long the oil lasts and it can go a VERY long time under certain conditions.

If you're not comfortable with their algorithm then send a sample off to blackstone labs and have an oil analysis ran. It's not very expensive. I have a twin turbo Q50 Red Sport and took it to 5 100+ degree track days. After 3,300 miles the oil had a TON of life still left in it after I sent it in and am going to try 5k next time at the labs suggestion. It would be difficult for anyone to run a car as hard and in worse conditions than what I did that car for those miles. Modern oil is light years superior and changing too often is just a waste of money and natural resources.

I'd be hesitant on mobil filters. They typically don't test well.
I had a Q50 Red Sport awhile ago. Did you modify the suspension? I found it too soft. I changed the stabilizer bars and that helped some.
 
Just hit 500 miles and figured I'd use my free oil change now. I've had fine luck with oil changes at the dealership so I'm giving them a go. Did we figure out what the GM part number was for the correct oil?

EDIT: Never mind I read a few posts up, looks like its 19353135
 

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