288 Miles and an engine failure

[Carguyshu]

 

[CaddyTrack]

your luck is just about as good as mine... people just like to play bumper cars with mine

Again? plz no....

 

[burn813]

Again? plz no....

thankfully no... <knocks on wood>

 

[SOFLO_NICK]

Seriously I know your pain OP! Having dealt with 2 engine failures myself from Dodge. The car never truly feels the same again once they do major surgery like that. There's always supplemental repairs and issues down the road. I know theres a long wait time for a CT5 BW but lemon law might be the best option in the long term. Protect the value of the car & potential headaches down the road. At a Min GM should give a nice long extended warranty

 

[Carguyshu]

Got the car back today. Dealer wasn’t even going to do an oil change even though the instrument cluster stated it needed one due to the oil overheating. Got them to do that as well as finish installing the parking sensor module. They put it in last time, but neglected to do the programming to make it active until I pointed out it still wasn’t working. Got 2 different part numbers for oil on this invoice, both of them reference the euro car formula 0w-40. They claim the correct oil was put in, but I’ve lost a lot of confidence in this whole ordeal. For some reason 7 quarts of one part number & 2 of another (even though I believe the car calls for 9.5). I asked they at the very least do a compression test to try and check for damage as best one can without actually opening stuff up. Instead they just threw on another belt & pressure tested the cooling system. I have got to believe after being 280+ degrees & having coolant boil for an extended time period that at least some bearings got hurt if not cylinder walls. I’ll guess we’ll see how it performs as is next track day & if it’s lost any power. I’m concerned about the long term when it comes to the motor that is in it now given no real inspection on its condition has been done. Found this nice example of what happened to a piston at 280+ & wonder what mine actually look like right now.

 

[SOFLO_NICK]

Got the car back today. Dealer wasn’t even going to do an oil change even though the instrument cluster stated it needed one due to the oil overheating. Got them to do that as well as finish installing the parking sensor module. They put it in last time, but neglected to do the programming to make it active until I pointed out it still wasn’t working. Got 2 different part numbers for oil on this invoice, both of them reference the euro car formula 0w-40. They claim the correct oil was put in, but I’ve lost a lot of confidence in this whole ordeal. For some reason 7 quarts of one part number & 2 of another (even though I believe the car calls for 9.5). I asked they at the very least do a compression test to try and check for damage as best one can without actually opening stuff up. Instead they just threw on another belt & pressure tested the cooling system. I have got to believe after being 280+ degrees & having coolant boil for an extended time period that at least some bearings got hurt if not cylinder walls. I’ll guess we’ll see how it performs as is next track day & if it’s lost any power. I’m concerned about the long term when it comes to the motor that is in it now given no real inspection on its condition has been done. Found this nice example of what happened to a piston at 280+ & wonder what mine actually look like right now.

Having a dealer check anything outside of a warranty claim is a near impossible feat. You will spend more back & forth with them. Drive the car as you normally do. If what your saying is true about piston ware being the case with you car it wont be long till failure. Plus tbh if that did occur I'm pretty sure you would feel it at idle or light load.

 

[Neveready]

Got the car back today. Dealer wasn’t even going to do an oil change even though the instrument cluster stated it needed one due to the oil overheating. Got them to do that as well as finish installing the parking sensor module. They put it in last time, but neglected to do the programming to make it active until I pointed out it still wasn’t working. Got 2 different part numbers for oil on this invoice, both of them reference the euro car formula 0w-40. They claim the correct oil was put in, but I’ve lost a lot of confidence in this whole ordeal. For some reason 7 quarts of one part number & 2 of another (even though I believe the car calls for 9.5). I asked they at the very least do a compression test to try and check for damage as best one can without actually opening stuff up. Instead they just threw on another belt & pressure tested the cooling system.

Unreal, what dealership is this?

 

[Carguyshu]

Having a dealer check anything outside of a warranty claim is a near impossible feat. You will spend more back & forth with them. Drive the car as you normally do. If what your saying is true about piston ware being the case with you car it wont be long till failure. Plus tbh if that did occur I'm pretty sure you would feel it at idle or light load.

if the pistons were broken, yes. if the pistons are scored and have damaged the walls, no. it would just increase oil consumption, possibly reduce compression/boost, and certainly lower how long the motor is strong for. same thing with the bearings. wear/damage could have & likely did happen to them, but unless it was super extreme damage it wouldn't show up now or anytime soon. instead it would have just significantly reduced the life expectancy.

 

[Carguyshu]

Unreal, what dealership is this?

one in kansas. the same people own the 2 closest to me so I don't have much choice and the 3rd one that is also within an hours drive of me are total dicks. they wouldn't let me drive around the parking lot or block a regular non BW ct5 V when I told them I was looking at ordering a BW b/c I didn't want to buy that exact car they had exactly then. That regular ct5 V also had a 20k ADM to give you an idea of terrible option 3 is. Trying to tell them I wanted to buy the version that was a lot more money but I wanted to make sure it was comfortable for me to fit in while driving didn't even make them blink. Unless I for sure wanted that exact car at an insane price they weren't going to let me in it. I suppose I could have lied and said I did, but then told them I changed my mind after driving it, but I probably wasn't going to ever get any car from them (and never will) based on their pricing.

 

[Nadnerb]

Got the car back today. Dealer wasn’t even going to do an oil change even though the instrument cluster stated it needed one due to the oil overheating. Got them to do that as well as finish installing the parking sensor module. They put it in last time, but neglected to do the programming to make it active until I pointed out it still wasn’t working. Got 2 different part numbers for oil on this invoice, both of them reference the euro car formula 0w-40. They claim the correct oil was put in, but I’ve lost a lot of confidence in this whole ordeal. For some reason 7 quarts of one part number & 2 of another (even though I believe the car calls for 9.5). I asked they at the very least do a compression test to try and check for damage as best one can without actually opening stuff up. Instead they just threw on another belt & pressure tested the cooling system. I have got to believe after being 280+ degrees & having coolant boil for an extended time period that at least some bearings got hurt if not cylinder walls. I’ll guess we’ll see how it performs as is next track day & if it’s lost any power. I’m concerned about the long term when it comes to the motor that is in it now given no real inspection on its condition has been done. Found this nice example of what happened to a piston at 280+ & wonder what mine actually look like right now.

I wonder how much oil consumption is considered to be "normal". I feel as though my PSI drops from 45 to 42-43 on the freeway depending on how many miles I've got on the oil (45 at brand new, 42-43 after 2-3k miles). Either way for you I'd recommend just continually hitting the track and breaking things. That's what warranty is for. Sad to hear about your dealer situation though. I honestly would create a ticket with Cadillac to at least keep track of everything just in case. The dealer that did my engine swap had a few little mishaps here and there like the sparkplug wires coming loose and causing the car to misfire and then a month after the alternator going out. They told me that it wasn't the alternator and it was just the battery so I said "alright" and drove it home while watching the battery drop to 11 volts. When the car sputtered again I pulled over, towed it straight to them and sent another email to my Caddy rep complaining about the dealership experience. Corporate will try to make it right depending on what happens. But I'd just start documenting everything and getting everything in writing. Makes it a whole lot easier if the dealership tries to tell Caddy you were abusing the car and the warranty claim for the motor gets denied (even if they do warranty it on the track money is money)

 

[jumpmanjay]

I wonder how much oil consumption is considered to be "normal". I feel as though my PSI drops from 45 to 42-43 on the freeway depending on how many miles I've got on the oil (45 at brand new, 42-43 after 2-3k miles). Either way for you I'd recommend just continually hitting the track and breaking things. That's what warranty is for. Sad to hear about your dealer situation though. I honestly would create a ticket with Cadillac to at least keep track of everything just in case. The dealer that did my engine swap had a few little mishaps here and there like the sparkplug wires coming loose and causing the car to misfire and then a month after the alternator going out. They told me that it wasn't the alternator and it was just the battery so I said "alright" and drove it home while watching the battery drop to 11 volts. When the car sputtered again I pulled over, towed it straight to them and sent another email to my Caddy rep complaining about the dealership experience. Corporate will try to make it right depending on what happens. But I'd just start documenting everything and getting everything in writing. Makes it a whole lot easier if the dealership tries to tell Caddy you were abusing the car and the warranty claim for the motor gets denied (even if they do warranty it on the track money is money)

At 180° oil temp, 43-44 psi at 2k rpms. 38 at idle. This is with 15% oil life left.