Track alignment?

[Andi]

I saw a track alignment with -2.5 deg camber up front mentioned in one of the 5BW reviews. Does this car have have the cool track alignment rotating struts from its ZL1LE cousin or camber adjusted the old school way?

 

[RDATLTE]

I saw a track alignment with -2.5 deg camber up front mentioned in one of the 5BW reviews. Does this car have have the cool track alignment rotating struts from its ZL1LE cousin or camber adjusted the old school way?

It has to be the old school way as the ZLEs are DSSV not magnetic. By the way, those DSSVs aren’t magic like they were portrayed to be. When you rotate them for camber, it throws the toe out so, you have to get an alignment.

 

[Andi]

It has to be the old school way as the ZLEs are DSSV not magnetic. By the way, those DSSVs aren’t magic like they were portrayed to be. When you rotate them for camber, it throws the toe out so, you have to get an alignment.

and they rode like there were cinder blocks where the shocks were supposed to be. I hated that car. First car that made me feel old. Rattled my fillings out.

 

[RDATLTE]

and they rode like there were cinder blocks where the shocks were supposed to be. I hated that car. First car that made me feel old. Rattled my fillings out.

And this old man loves his.

 

[foot 1]

and they rode like there were cinder blocks where the shocks were supposed to be. I hated that car. First car that made me feel old. Rattled my fillings out.

It’s definitely not a daily driver but it’s pretty darn good on a road course.

 

[poor-sha]

Just posting a few things here for future owners. This is out of the owners manual.

 

[Andi]

What are the street alignment specs for a 5BW?

 

[poor-sha]

What are the street alignment specs for a 5BW?

 

[Andi]

Interesting. Mine will be a daily driver, I’m trying to decide a good aggressive street alignment spec. I may just do -1.5 front and stick with -1.0 rear.

 

[poor-sha]

Brake Fluid

Replace existing brake fluid with a qualified DOT 4 high performance brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid with a dry boiling point >310 °C (590 °F) is qualified. If high performance brake fluid is used, replace it with GM approved brake fluid before driving on public roads. If high performance brake fluid is in the vehicle and the age of the brake fluid is over a month old or unknown, replace the brake fluid before track events and competitive driving. Do not use silicone or DOT 5 brake fluids.

It is critical to disconnect the battery before bleeding the system, replacing the pads, or any other work. The battery must be disconnected to prevent the brake master cylinder from pressurizing the hydraulic system during its automated self diagnostic tests that can possibly occur when a door is opened or the remote key is present.

Check the fluid level before each competitive driving event.

 

[Andi]

Brake Fluid

Replace existing brake fluid with a qualified DOT 4 high performance brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid with a dry boiling point >310 °C (590 °F) is qualified. If high performance brake fluid is used, replace it with GM approved brake fluid before driving on public roads. If high performance brake fluid is in the vehicle and the age of the brake fluid is over a month old or unknown, replace the brake fluid before track events and competitive driving. Do not use silicone or DOT 5 brake fluids.

It is critical to disconnect the battery before bleeding the system, replacing the pads, or any other work. The battery must be disconnected to prevent the brake master cylinder from pressurizing the hydraulic system during its automated self diagnostic tests that can possibly occur when a door is opened or the remote key is present.

Check the fluid level before each competitive driving event.

SRF FTW.

I didn’t know about the battery thing, thanks!

 

[poor-sha]

SRF FTW.

I didn’t know about the battery thing, thanks!

Here's another bizarre reference related to brake bleeding. This is under the section for J56 brakes which I can't find listed as an RPO in the order guide but at least on the C7 it was the non-CCB brakes. They get very specific about bleeding by compressing the pistons in a certain order multiple times. This is with a pressure bleeder on the system.

This is just an excerpt of the entire process and this is per caliper:

1. Open the UPPER bleeder, allow fluid to flow for 10 seconds, close bleeder and repeat the step two more times before moving on.
2. Reopen UPPER bleeder, use channel locks to quickly squeeze pad to caliper in locations by each piston beginning with Sequence A, then repeating with Sequence B:
3. Sequence A:Beginning with the pad section furthest from the UPPER bleeder (2) and ending with the pad section nearest to the UPPER bleeder (2):
   1. Outboard leading piston
   2. Inboard leading piston
   3. Outboard trailing piston
   4. Inboard trailing piston
4. Sequence B:Beginning with the pad section nearest to the UPPER bleeder (2) and ending with the pad section furthest from the UPPER bleeder (2):
   1. Inboard trailing piston
   2. Outboard trailing piston
   3. Inboard leading piston
   4. Outboard leading piston
5. Use a rubber mallet to tap 3 times behind each piston and 3 times gently on the top and bottom of caliper.
6. Close bleeder and wait 5 seconds to allow pressure to rebuild and pistons/pads to spread back out to rotor.
7. Repeat step 18 four more times.

It even includes two videos showing the order to compress the pistons with channel locks.

 

[Carguyshu]

Here's another bizarre reference related to brake bleeding. This is under the section for J56 brakes which I can't find listed as an RPO in the order guide but at least on the C7 it was the non-CCB brakes. They get very specific about bleeding by compressing the pistons in a certain order multiple times. This is with a pressure bleeder on the system.

This is just an excerpt of the entire process and this is per caliper:

1. Open the UPPER bleeder, allow fluid to flow for 10 seconds, close bleeder and repeat the step two more times before moving on.
2. Reopen UPPER bleeder, use channel locks to quickly squeeze pad to caliper in locations by each piston beginning with Sequence A, then repeating with Sequence B:
3. Sequence A:Beginning with the pad section furthest from the UPPER bleeder (2) and ending with the pad section nearest to the UPPER bleeder (2):
   1. Outboard leading piston
   2. Inboard leading piston
   3. Outboard trailing piston
   4. Inboard trailing piston
4. Sequence B:Beginning with the pad section nearest to the UPPER bleeder (2) and ending with the pad section furthest from the UPPER bleeder (2):
   1. Inboard trailing piston
   2. Outboard trailing piston
   3. Inboard leading piston
   4. Outboard leading piston
5. Use a rubber mallet to tap 3 times behind each piston and 3 times gently on the top and bottom of caliper.
6. Close bleeder and wait 5 seconds to allow pressure to rebuild and pistons/pads to spread back out to rotor.
7. Repeat step 18 four more times.

It even includes two videos showing the order to compress the pistons with channel locks.

View attachment 4346

do you have a link to the video? this seems like a lot of work to bleed the brakes and replace with better track fluid (I plan on castrol SRF).

It's my understanding the clutch system shares the fluid with the brake system too. Any notes about getting all the fluid out of that when changing out fluid?

 

[rdollie]

SRF FTW.

I didn’t know about the battery thing, thanks!

Yeah, you don't want to have to re-build the Brembo calipers - not that I learned the hard way the first time I changed them on my old V3...

 

[poor-sha]

do you have a link to the video? this seems like a lot of work to bleed the brakes and replace with better track fluid (I plan on castrol SRF).

It's my understanding the clutch system shares the fluid with the brake system too. Any notes about getting all the fluid out of that when changing out fluid?

That video you can only get to through the AC Delco TDS system. I don’t have the link to the site handy but you can pay $20 for a 3 day access pass.

The clutch and brakes do share the fluid reservoir. I work off the belief that you replace what you can and the rest left will dilute with the fresh fluid. The caveat to that is the ABS module which will need to be activated to cycle fluid through it.

 

[Carguyshu]

That video you can only get to through the AC Delco TDS system. I don’t have the link to the site handy but you can pay $20 for a 3 day access pass.

The clutch and brakes do share the fluid reservoir. I work off the belief that you replace what you can and the rest left will dilute with the fresh fluid. The caveat to that is the ABS module which will need to be activated to cycle fluid through it.

this is what has me concerned. On my sl55 (first car made with brake by wire) there is no ABS module as each brake is independently braked at all times, so the brake by wire system is essentially the ABS. I've not seen anything about how the CT5 BW brake by wire works. On the SL55 the only way to fully and properly bleed the system is to have a dealer computer or high end scan tool.

 

[poor-sha]

I think it depends on your goals. If you have air in the system then I agree it is important to push fluid through everything. If it’s just to get better fluid in with less moisture I think we can flush 90% of the system and the rest will mix with use.

 

[Carguyshu]

I think it depends on your goals. If you have air in the system then I agree it is important to push fluid through everything. If it’s just to get better fluid in with less moisture I think we can flush 90% of the system and the rest will mix with use.

yea i plan on putting in SRF as soon as I get my hands on it and just trying to figure out how lol