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Jacking up your Blackwing

Don't understand the fuss. Manufacturers have been using pinch weld locations for jack points for a very long time.
Have you tried jacking up a car on a vertical pinch weld ? Metal bending and distorting under the weight of the car. This is the only vehicle I've had with this dumb design.
 
Have you tried jacking up a car on a vertical pinch weld ? Metal bending and distorting under the weight of the car. This is the only vehicle I've had with this dumb design.
Yes, all my recent cars and no problems, ever.
 
My Mazdas all had them and jacking up the car with them using a normal jack caused them to bend and crack the paint off and eventually rust when I lived in Ohio.
My Audi also has them, so I bought slotted pads for my jacks, and the pinch weld holders for my jack stands, but the rubber holders still rubbed the paint off the pinch welds. Thankfully, rust is not an issue in Texas.
I would love to know the secret to having no problems ever with pinch welds.
 
I use a floor jack with slotted jack pads like ZL1 addons sells or similar. No issues. Not worried about paint on the pinch welds. They are barely painted anyway.
 
ZL1 addons said their ct5 jack lift pads work on the ct4s. I was surprised by this, but also not surprised. I'm more surprised they wouldn't list them on their site as working with ct4s
 
I use a floor jack with slotted jack pads like ZL1 addons sells or similar. No issues. Not worried about paint on the pinch welds. They are barely painted anyway.
Did you cut out the plastic from the rocker like some owners on here have done, or did you just let the pad push on the plastic?
 
Did you cut out the plastic from the rocker like some owners on here have done, or did you just let the pad push on the plastic?
There is no real interference on my 5V non BW.
 
My Mazdas all had them and jacking up the car with them using a normal jack caused them to bend and crack the paint off and eventually rust when I lived in Ohio.
My Audi also has them, so I bought slotted pads for my jacks, and the pinch weld holders for my jack stands, but the rubber holders still rubbed the paint off the pinch welds. Thankfully, rust is not an issue in Texas.
I would love to know the secret to having no problems ever with pinch welds.
Well the secret to having no problems with a dumb design is to have a better design, the manufacturer should be the one to fix that, not the consumer.
 
Did you cut out the plastic from the rocker like some owners on here have done, or did you just let the pad push on the plastic?
You shouldn't have to modify the plastic underneath a sixty thousand dollar car so you don't damage it while doing something as simple as jacking up the vehicle. Maybe GM could hire a competent engineer to correct this ? Just a thought.
 
You shouldn't have to modify the plastic underneath a sixty thousand dollar car so you don't damage it while doing something as simple as jacking up the vehicle. Maybe GM could hire a competent engineer to correct this ? Just a thought.
It's a user issue, not an engineering issue. I was thinking about this thread a week ago when I swapped to my winter wheels with nothing but a harbor freight jack and a regular slotted pad. I stand by my comment from two years ago:
I honestly didn't think it was that complicated, at least for a 4BW. I used a regular grooved hockey puck pad when I swapped my wheels and had no issues. I fit the groove on the rear chassis brace, and I used it as a regular pad on the front flat. This thread had me worried I missed something, but I really think some of you are overthinking it. Just avoid the carbon and you'll be fine.
 
It's a user issue, not an engineering issue. I was thinking about this thread a week ago when I swapped to my winter wheels with nothing but a harbor freight jack and a regular slotted pad. I stand by my comment from two years ago:
I'm not concerned about myself jacking up the car to do work on it. I take the time to do things carefully. My concern is more with tire shops, etc where my trust that someone will take the adequate care is lacking. By having some bright red block attached to the car I am much more relaxed about bad things not happening.

I've had dealerships crank down on my jeep's airbox cracking it. That is someone I would expect to know not to go full send on an impact or powered ratchet. While there are plenty of good techs are discount tire, I know there are inexperienced/careless ones too.
 
I honestly didn't think it was that complicated, at least for a 4BW. I used a regular grooved hockey puck pad when I swapped my wheels and had no issues. I fit the groove on the rear chassis brace, and I used it as a regular pad on the front flat. This thread had me worried I missed something, but I really think some of you are overthinking it. Just avoid the carbon and you'll be fine.
Do you have any pictures of your method?
 
Have had numerous cars with pinch welds to lift by and zero issue for me. I’ve used the universal ZL1 with floor pad adapter with zero issues on various cars over the years. (13 Explorer, 14 Mustang, 16 Z06, 17 Camaro ZL1 vert, 22 5BW)

I finally bought and installed these ZL1 pads on my 22 5BW. Didn’t have to cut anything and no issue with carbon skirts or even the original black plastic skirts. I use them to jack up the car and place the wheels on Race Ramp 10” cradles when I want a level car for rear end oil change. For normal oil changes, I drive up on Race Ramps.
As previously mentioned, take your time when jacking. I use two floor jacks, one in each side, lift the front first, then the rear and jack up a little at a time as evenly as possible until I can slide my cradles under the tire.

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IMG_3585.jpeg
 
Have had numerous cars with pinch welds to lift by and zero issue for me. I’ve used the universal ZL1 with floor pad adapter with zero issues on various cars over the years. (13 Explorer, 14 Mustang, 16 Z06, 17 Camaro ZL1 vert, 22 5BW)

I finally bought and installed these ZL1 pads on my 22 5BW. Didn’t have to cut anything and no issue with carbon skirts or even the original black plastic skirts. I use them to jack up the car and place the wheels on Race Ramp 10” cradles when I want a level car for rear end oil change. For normal oil changes, I drive up on Race Ramps.
As previously mentioned, take your time when jacking. I use two floor jacks, one in each side, lift the front first, then the rear and jack up a little at a time as evenly as possible until I can slide my cradles under the tire.

View attachment 32651View attachment 32650
Exactly how I'm set up as well! but with 2 piece 10" ramps and, 4" trailer loading ramps - I'll haul the 4" in the trunk I guess, and try them for the rear diff. I need a second Daytona jack but I'm in the ZL1 cart now with all kinds of stuff for jacking. And the towing hook (don't really need it but with the OEM I'd have both ends covered).

Hello from WA.

Would you know if these bolts useable on the CT5-V? '24 Blackwing. Not for the wicker bill though, somewhere in the engine bay would be cool. 1/4-20 bolts
 
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I think these might work on the Blackwing. If I'm remebering conversation with Ryan, not sure but I'll go for it. He was cool with me trying Camaro stuff on the Blackwing or return if non-fit.

doggonit I just lost my entire cart $700 big ones. Ugh, hopefullly, they'll nag me with a left in cart reminder.
I only have the stealth pads so far, nice product.
edit spelling stealth
 
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Exactly how I'm set up as well! but with 2 piece 10" ramps and, 4" trailer loading ramps - I'll haul the 4" in the trunk I guess, and try them for the rear diff. I need a second Daytona jack but I'm in the ZL1 cart now with all kinds of stuff for jacking. And the towing hook (don't really need it but with the OEM I'd have both ends covered).

Hello from WA.

Would you know if these bolts useable on the CT5-V? '24 Blackwing. Not for the wicker bill though, somewhere in the engine bay would be cool. 1/4-20 bolts
Hey @Argent86, cool bolts but I haven’t used them, so not sure.

I have the 14” 2 piece (7” each) and love them. I also have the solid 10” ones and swamp between them.
 
ZL1 sent a cart reminder!, good! Recovered my stuff. but it got wiped out again. Argh. Tomorrow for sure. Shipping now up to $25 clams. Ugh, but legit.
 
Okay, Camaro chassis tow plates at ZL1Addons will not fit Blackwing. Ryan said so, helped me with my cart/order.

They also invite any Blackwing owner in San Diego to swing by so they can make more parts for the car.

The cerakote 1/4-20 bolts are wicker bill only at this point. I was playing with the idea of dressing up the engine bay but more a pipedream than reality.
 
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