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Engine Break In - 500 mi or 1500 mi

I’m also curious where all these tracks are that you can hit 140+, does one even exist?

Screenshot 2023-09-02 162714.jpg


All kinds of tracks to hit 140+

This is Daytona. You can also do it at Sebring and Homestead.
 
That's not .. exactly... what happens. The are dyno-driven, but not anywhere NEAR redline. It's done for a quick emissions test. And they aren't "beating the crap" out of them, either.

As I said at the beginning of this thread: the engine doesn't need a break-in. The differential does. Treat it with respect for the first 500+ miles, or you will pay for it later.
I can say that I was there on three separate occasions. All 3 times was the same. You could clearly hear every car tested was at WOT. It was on the rollers and they were checking all kinds of stuff. Maybe that has changed since I was last there?
I agree that the break in is more for the rear. Even when you get new gears installed, its supposed to be a 500 mile break in. Same for a clutch.
 
I thought the rules said not to be a jerk to others & not to call people names (paraphrasing), is that not true, am I allowed to jump to conclusions and call people names over a photo I see? I’m also curious where all these tracks are that you can hit 140+, does one even exist?
Thats some first post sir....
I agree with you completely. This is a car forum and members should be civil. Spirited discussions are welcome and everyone should be respectful and there is no need for people to use abusive language.
You guy are new and will learn that's normal here with some members and we have not had an incident in a long time..
 
Back somewhat on topic and I know my opinion doesn’t matter as no one really changes their mind and are going to do what they do……….any way, I did the full 1500 and barely went over 4K a few times. Changed the oil, oil filter, diff fluid and let it rip. For me it doesn’t take that long to get to 1500 miles so I figured I’d follow the book in the off chance I have a warranty claim.

All that being said, I really don’t think it matters. As others have said, the vast majority of the break in is done early on, plus most thing things break due to a manufacturing error and not a usage error. Most of us won’t keep these cars to a mileage that it will really matter any way.
 
Back somewhat on topic and I know my opinion doesn’t matter as no one really changes their mind and are going to do what they do……….any way, I did the full 1500 and barely went over 4K a few times. Changed the oil, oil filter, diff fluid and let it rip. For me it doesn’t take that long to get to 1500 miles so I figured I’d follow the book in the off chance I have a warranty claim.

All that being said, I really don’t think it matters. As others have said, the vast majority of the break in is done early on, plus most thing things break due to a manufacturing error and not a usage error. Most of us won’t keep these cars to a mileage that it will really matter any way.
Yup, I am in the same camp as you. I do it all early on and it's overkill and if she breaks it's a gonna break anyway?
I will say though after extensive break in documentations on GM V8's there is something to longevity. My truck runs absolutely perfect with almost no oil consumption. Note: they all consume some by the way. it's just hard to notice at 3-5k oil change intervals. Anyway the break in technically is a process or curve that is far greater in duration than most realize or until the internals reach a point of no more wear materials being shed. How long she stays in the zone of wear metals being at their lowest is entirely up to the owner. GM OEM bearings are the Honey Pot! They truly are gold standard with their journal tolerances etc. Those are the setups bar none that go for 3,4,5,600k all day long.

There is a reason GM is making the 6th Gen V8 because they make the gold standard at their volumes.
 
interesting. I didn't really pay attention and went to redline shortly after 500...

I actually got well above the 'soft' redline pre-500mi on occasion without paying attention to it. The redline is more of a suggestion in that there is no actual rev limiter, it's just optics and you can blow right by it during the the lower redline period.
 
The LT-4 has zero need for a break-in process? Ooof, OK. This is why I struggle with the used market for performance cars. There are dozens of components that need to become familiar with each other, and its not just the differential.

Here is Savagegeese take on it, and his is one I subscribe to.

 
I have no issues with self-control and did take it easy as recommended in the manual. If the LT4 didn’t need to have a break-in makes no difference to me, 500/1500 miles is not a big deal.
 
The LT-4 has zero need for a break-in process? Ooof, OK. This is why I struggle with the used market for performance cars. There are dozens of components that need to become familiar with each other, and its not just the differential.

Here is Savagegeese take on it, and his is one I subscribe to.

Pretty nuanced video. Seems like if you keep it on the street the vast majority of us will follow the recommended break in by default. A few harder pulls where you hit the 4,500 redline isn't going to hurt anything. Even this video just mentions doing it for a few hundred miles, so it doesn't seem like driving like a grandma for 1,500 is needed at all.
 
Reality check as most are unaware that the Engine break-in happens in the first 20 mins of run time. The pistons seat themselves and once it's done it's done. It's everything else in the car that takes more time such as, tires, brakes, clutch, trans, differentials, etc.

The porter who went to fill your gas tank for the first time is the one doing the bulk of engine break-in. So really don't stress.

I'll check your reality with clarification: the pistons don't seat, it's the rings.

My opinion (which is worth just as much as the rest of you mooks) is that if there were no need to do a break-in, the manufacturers wouldn't tell us to do it.

Take it easy for 500+ miles and then gradually increase RPMs. No hard launches, powershifts, crap like that.
 
I'll check your reality with clarification: the pistons don't seat, it's the rings.

My opinion (which is worth just as much as the rest of you mooks) is that if there were no need to do a break-in, the manufacturers wouldn't tell us to do it.

Take it easy for 500+ miles and then gradually increase RPMs. No hard launches, powershifts, crap like that.

Joe Biden GIF
 
I'll check your reality with clarification: the pistons don't seat, it's the rings.

My opinion (which is worth just as much as the rest of you mooks) is that if there were no need to do a break-in, the manufacturers wouldn't tell us to do it.

Take it easy for 500+ miles and then gradually increase RPMs. No hard launches, powershifts, crap like that.
Agree. They're the ones paying for warranty claims and with a reputation on the line. If they say to break it in, I'm not going to second guess that.
 
Agree. They're the ones paying for warranty claims and with a reputation on the line. If they say to break it in, I'm not going to second guess that.
This is why I let it rip at 500 when the tach showed the expanded redline. They could have programmed it for 1500 and expressly did not.

Lick the stamp and send it, like @Tall Steve said.
 
Yea…touchy subject here but honestly, I have “broken in” every motorcycle and car the same that I have owned. Don’t lug her, and let her rip, and never had an issue. No oil consumption on any vehicle I have owned, and no power train issues up to 100k.
 

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