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CEL P10BA - Charge Air Cooler (CAC) Coolant Pump Control Circuit

Blackwing61

Seasoned Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2021
Messages
174
Location
CA
V-Series Cadillac(s)?
2018 Cadillac CTS-V | 2022 Cadillac CT5-V Blackwing
Hi All, it's been a while since I have been on. I got a CEL and the code is DTC P10BA - Charge Air Cooler (CAC) Coolant Pump Control Circuit. The dealership cleared it but I had them look into it more, along with myself going down the rabbit hole with AI on what it could be and solutions. After multiple conversations about what to do and if there is preventive maintenance that can be done to the supercharger to prevent anything catastrophic, the dealership saying they don't really do, and haven't performed any maintenance on the superchargers. They also said any kind of preventative maintenance work they would do that I would be the guinea pig for them. I only have about 13,000 miles on it and I haven't really driven it since they cleared the CEL as it's been in the shop for new struts due to creaking when turning the steering wheel left or right. I should be getting the car back today and will see if the light comes back on but wanted to get others thoughts. Thank you!
 
I have a '22 and had the charge air coolant pump replaced about 2 months ago at 49k miles on the clock. Mine was throwing a P10BA:00 code also.
 
Was it covered under warranty?
 
I don't know if it was original or GMPP, but it was covered.
 
That bulletin was published exactly 1 year ago today, nice.

1769105903264.png
 
Hi All, it's been a while since I have been on. I got a CEL and the code is DTC P10BA - Charge Air Cooler (CAC) Coolant Pump Control Circuit. The dealership cleared it but I had them look into it more, along with myself going down the rabbit hole with AI on what it could be and solutions. After multiple conversations about what to do and if there is preventive maintenance that can be done to the supercharger to prevent anything catastrophic, the dealership saying they don't really do, and haven't performed any maintenance on the superchargers. They also said any kind of preventative maintenance work they would do that I would be the guinea pig for them. I only have about 13,000 miles on it and I haven't really driven it since they cleared the CEL as it's been in the shop for new struts due to creaking when turning the steering wheel left or right. I should be getting the car back today and will see if the light comes back on but wanted to get others thoughts. Thank you!
Hey BW61, apologizing first for the hijack. You mention your struts getting replaced due to creaking. Care to comment on my possibly related thread? TIA BW4 sounds like a yacht
 
Question is, is the code for the pump failing or just having air in the system. The pump wouldnt spin if there's air in the line and thats been a thing since the V3s. Can always try bleeding it and see if that alleviates the issue.

Use the DMS coolant bleeder attachment, cut a 2liter soda bottle, fill with coolant or water wetter, run the car and massage the brick coolant lines to force air out of the bricks if any.

 
This came back yesterday when I was just cruising, not even getting on it for supercharger to kick in.

I am asking the dealership to escalate this to Cadi.

IMG_6022.jpeg
 
I suggested that to the dealership and they responded they have never done that and I’d be the first…
 
I suggested that to the dealership and they responded they have never done that and I’d be the first…
Sounds like time to find another servicing dealership.

But have they replaced the pump yet? But the fact they dont know how to bleed the system, I'd be wary of them bleeding it correctly after replacing the coolant pump since that will drain most of the fluid out of the system.

Might be worth getting a DMS adapter tool to bleed it yourself. Here's a clip, same process for our car. Massage the inlet and outlet hoses going into the blower to push air thru the system to help with the bleeding. I personally raise the front of the car to aid with pushing air but thats really up to you.

 
I used the DMS adapter to bleed the intercooler lines on my 2017 ZL1. Removing the adapter from the fill port can make a pretty big mess. I much prefer the Tapout Tuning kit—it includes a plastic rod that plugs the end of the funnel, which makes the process a lot cleaner.

On the ZL1, you could jumper the pump relay and run the intercooler pump without starting the engine. Unfortunately, on the CT5-V LT4, the pump only runs with the engine running. Plan on bleeding the system over several days—it’s not a quick half-hour job if you want to get all the air out.

Why GM didn’t include an intercooler reservoir is a real head-scratcher. It would have made bleeding the system so much easier.
 

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