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I just bought it from the motive site since I was getting some other maintenance parts. https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/replacement-parts-accessories/products/replacement-tubing-for-powerbleeders?variant=14420599734361

Quite a while...not sure how long but for how cheap hose is, it's worth changing every5 or so years I would think. When they go from clear to opaque is probably a good clue. I went all metal adapters. Brake fluid will ruin paint if its not washed off immediately, so extra caution is warranted.

I think bleeding for air in the system its more critical where you start. I can't imagine why it would matter where you start if you're just doing an exchange. I mityvac out as much old fluid from the MC reservoir as I can. I then start at the front driver as it's the shortest distance for...

Maybe...but the hours on my back cleaning the underside of precious could be better spent driving roads following my personal sweeper/moisture spotter truck.

2nd gear still has some leverage vs a higher gear, so seems plausible that a combination of that, you not expecting it, and a dash of dramatic reaction influenced your perception? Try it again and report back :cool:

I don't think any available mode can address hydroplane issues since it's mostly a function of tires and the PS4S isn't really a great heavy rain tire.

Coolant dripping indicates a leak, not a bleed issue. I suppose it could be remnants from the repair, but that would be odd after a few miles of drive time.

I'll put my name in the hat! 1. Alanera | 24' CT5-V Blackwing, Black Raven 2. Rajiv (so 650) | '23 4BW Sebring IMSA, Maverick Noir Frost 3. Jon | '24 5BW Black Diamond Tricoat

Yeah, we don't want to break the laws legislated by the house of manual super sedan.

Before brake-by-wire, you could easily tell you had the wrong fluid based on pedal feel. I never really thought of Laguna as notoriously hard on brakes in the context of most track driving and the lower overall speeds, but I suppose T2 and T11 would probably specify some Castrol SRF :cool:

If the 1,500 mile break-in is more for the rear diff than the LT4, I think I'm going to prioritize optimal operating parameters for the glorious V8 over all else. Rear diff be dammed! 😉

The inventory bar code that you never removed from the steering column cowl?

Mine is, at least the entire front. She doesn't see many miles. The paint does an amazing job of hiding blemishes, or would if there were any.

Great info! It's an iconic V heritage color and deserves it's rarity status. I'd post a picture, but it would be totally redundant. :cool:

As a data point, zero issues here and I stop by a couple times a day. Windows 11 machine, starlink internet.

Whatever the percentage difference in viscosity is, I'm just curious how higher viscosity helps specifically in high lateral g-force scenarios. I get that higher viscosity might be beneficial under the general extreme conditions of track work. If the idea is better film strength under...

Count me among the ones wondering how a slight increase in viscosity changes the physics of hot oil in the sump during high corner loads.

That does seem low by modern standards, but I don't have a 4. The fact that it stays at a consistent, lower temp is interesting. Is the temp controlled purely by a plan 'ol thermostat or are there other mechanisms, I wonder.

I wonder how much this has to do with the L87 debacle? By that I mean, regular people are going to be annoyed that they have to buy Supercar for their T-Ball mobility device (now that Dexos R is the recommendation). I'm sticking with Supercar.

Well, I think it's great that you asked someone for help rather than posting an unfortunate PSA about bricking your BW from a car-to-car connection gone wrong. @shbox is 💯 on point with the jumper box. I have them in all my cars because the libertarian in me says to be ready to help yourself...