Status report:
I'll update again once I receive the physical adapter and get the splicing figured out.
- I've ordered the physical spacer from Italy, once that gets here I'll give it a test fit. I've messaged back and forth with the owner of spacershop quite a bit. He's been very helpful and is confident this will fit. I'll take plenty of photos of the assembly process once it arrives.
- Wiring: I've ordered 3 or 4 connectors (male and female), and ultimately spoke to both the distributor and manufacturer of the Yellow steering wheel connector, and their office in Dearborn, MI. Good news is that I 100% have found and purchased the same yellow connector. Bad news is that there is no stand alone male connector that fits the "key" type of the yellow connector. It's manufactured exclusively to marry with the clock spring. There is a Gray connector that is also identical to the yellow, but has a different "key" type, so unfortunately its of no use. Further than that, even the male connector that fits the grey plug is made to be soldered directly to a motherboard, so the male pins are not removable/adjustable and aren't mean to have wires crimped to them.
- Re-use the oem female terminals that are crimped onto the wire.
- Rather than use my OEM harness, I'll buy a brand new one (they are not expensive), and modify that. This way I always have the stock harness to revert back to.
- I will test the resistance through the harness, comparing both OEM and my extended version.
- From the new OEM harness - de-pin the yellow connector by removing the female terminals. This is super easy, having done it on my test harness and the new yellow connectors I bought.
- For each wire, I will cut the female terminal off right at the end.
- From my donor harness, I will also de-pin the yellow connector and cut the wire, but this time I'll cut the wire about 2-3inches back from the female terminal. This will act as the "extension" that will be added to the new OEM harness.
- I've been researching crimp vs. solder and the best way to splice the extension wire onto the new OEM harness. It appears Mercedes sells a splice that has solder inside and it shrinks up to make a watertight seal. That is actually the repair that they authorize on their own SRS systems, so I'm leaning this direction. That said, this is the only piece of the puzzle I'm still researching. My goal is to have a splice that adds the least amount of resistance to the circuit as possible.
- From there its pretty straightforward, I'll be able to simply re-insert the female terminals from the extension part of the harness into the OEM harness yellow connector.
- The only other unknown is what the physical pass-through of the hub adapter is like, if I need to secure the harness inside the adapter at all, etc. TBD once I receive that.
I'll update again once I receive the physical adapter and get the splicing figured out.



