Lug nut torque question

[Snorlax]

I have some Rays Dura-Nut lug nuts that were previously on my FK8 Type R and was thinking about throwing them on the CT4 BW but the box for the lug nuts mentions a torque spec of 140N*m (~100 lb-ft). The manual for the CT4 BW has a torque spec of 140 lb-ft which seems excessively high to me, the FK8 is also M14x1.5 but had a torque spec of 94 lb-ft. Given that these lug nuts are aluminum I don't think its a good idea to go that far above the torque stated on the box and wondering if running them at 100 lb-ft will be fine. Anyone been running lower than the OEM torque spec?

 

[T.O.Blackwing]

You’re the only one looking at your own nuts so just use the stock lug nuts already.
Another first world problem solved.

 

[BKC1]

Those Dura-Nut look like awful lug nuts (the supplier calls them 7075-T6 and "duralumin" which is a 2000-series aluminum--both can't be true at the same time). The torque spec is required not optional. You have to reach a certain torque to achieve preload on the stud to prevent loosening--if your chosen lug nut can't handle that torque you shouldn't be using it. High strength fasteners require higher torque to preload because they're harder to stretch. You should never use aluminum lug nuts for a myriad of reasons, most notably their lack of a fatigue limit.

If you're looking for a dressier lug nut, try McGard Spline Drive, which has a highly chip-resistant finish and a floating seat. You'll also need a P/N 65302 (22mm) or 65301 (1") spline tool--I recommend getting two, so that you can put one in the glove box and leave one at home.

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You'll also need a P/N 65302 (22mm hex) or 65301 (1" hex) spline tool. I recommend getting two: put one in the glove box with a cheap Capri socket and a McGard 70007 pouch and leave one at home.

 

[leres]

I have some Rays Dura-Nut lug nuts that were previously on my FK8 Type R and was thinking about throwing them on the CT4 BW but the box for the lug nuts mentions a torque spec of 140N*m (~100 lb-ft). The manual for the CT4 BW has a torque spec of 140 lb-ft which seems excessively high to me, the FK8 is also M14x1.5 but had a torque spec of 94 lb-ft. Given that these lug nuts are aluminum I don't think its a good idea to go that far above the torque stated on the box and wondering if running them at 100 lb-ft will be fine. Anyone been running lower than the OEM torque spec?

I always try to go OEM with torque specs (and parts for that matter).

My 2014 CTS-V used the same M14x1.5 lug nuts. The first time I messed with them I thought "holy s*** these are tight!" But they are also a lot bigger than the M12x1.5 lug nuts on my C6 Z06 (which are 100 lb/ft).

 

[rubberduck]

I would not use Aluminum lug nuts for several reasons, but mainly the much lower tensile strength. Use recommended torque spec so you don’t crash into another forum members car when your wheel comes off.

McGard and call it a day.

 

[jbawden]

Those Dura-Nut look like awful lug nuts (the supplier calls them 7075-T6 and "duralumin" which is a 2000-series aluminum--both can't be true at the same time).

That alloy is called Chinesium

 

[Snorlax]

Contacted the manufacturer and it looks like the torque spec on the box is a general recommendation for m14 studs, they say it can be used at 140 lb-ft no problem. Despite that, many valid points on aluminum lugs not being ideal

And safety is always key so not worth risking that but learned lot about what determines the torque spec. I am now very curious what material grade GM is using for their stud that requires 140 lb-ft to get the desired stretch