Jacking up your Blackwing

[TexasHawkeye]

I used these same pads under by 4BW — thanks for the link. Also cut the plastic - no biggie. But getting that rear set screw tight on the back pads was an exercise in patience! I think that set screw on each side took longer than the entire process on the rest.

Lesson learned for all of my colleagues on here. I bought the 8000TL quickjacks this week, and just tried to lift my blackwing. Measure twice, buy once. My lifting pucks are 60” apart (center to center), and the farthest reaches of the trays on the QJ are 59.75” apart. No go without some risk to the car and the one working under it. Also won’t reach side-to-side by turning the QJ frames perpendicular to the car.

So, now I’m in another $410 for the frame extensions, and some drive over blocks to ensure I have enough space to slide them under the car with the extenders on.

Moral of the story? Don’t be an idiot, it’s expensive. And, get the extended frames unless you have some smaller cars like I do as well. It’s hard to have a universal lift that fits all of my family’s cars, apparently (we go from Mazda3 hatchback to Suburban). I thought my 4BW would be ok, but it ain’t. Hopefully another 3” of reach on each side gets it.

Aaaargh!!!!

 

[mfcentex]

Sorry to hear. I thought I posted earlier about the TLX model. I purchased the 7000TLX last year based on my measurements.

The Quickjacks aren't that universal. I bought the 7000 series thinking I could use it on all three vehicles (SUV, Truck, and BW). It works fine on my longer Ram 1500, but won't work on the wife's SUV. There are some large plastic pieces on the SUV that don't give enough side clearance.

 

[TexasHawkeye]

Sorry to hear. I thought I posted earlier about the TLX model. I purchased the 7000TLX last year based on my measurements.

The Quickjacks aren't that universal. I bought the 7000 series thinking I could use it on all three vehicles (SUV, Truck, and BW). It works fine on my longer Ram 1500, but won't work on the wife's SUV. There are some large plastic pieces on the SUV that don't give enough side clearance.

You probably posted, but it’s hard to sift through and keep current with a 24 page thread that is several years old!

 

[Sergio]

I have a 5000TL with 60” spacing, I use the rubber blocks that came with the Quickjacks.

Maybe you can move your lifting pucks little closer together?

 

[piranha971]

2x2 1/8" thick square steel tubing. I am using that for my X5

 

[TexasHawkeye]

I have a 5000TL with 60” spacing, I use the rubber blocks that came with the Quickjacks.

Maybe you can move your lifting pucks little closer together?

Or take them off completely. They will only be nudged so far because of all the interference. I probably took away too many degrees of freedom.

 

[babyzilla]

I have another option for you all, especially if you don't want to go the quickjack route like me (it just doesn't seem as universal as I'd like, it takes up a lot of space, and still seems like a pain to set up each time). It's by far the least expensive option, but still very safe. The only thing is you will need a second floor jack or scissor jack.

So, using these pinch weld adapters, I had the idea of bolting them on to each end of a bar and using a floor jack to lift the center of the bar. You will want two bars to be safe so you can lift each side relatively. I worked with a local machine/fab shop and they made my idea come to life. The prototype had a little bend to it, so they welded additional pieces to both sides of each bar and applied some pre-bend to it. Not only did this add structurally rigidity to the bar itself but when lifting, the bar would essentially work itself back to 0 degrees. They only charged me $100 for each bar. The main thing to consider is the car is obviously low as is, so you need a low profile jack. When you add the diameter of the bar, in my case 1.25 inches, you really don't have much space to work with, but it worked out perfectly with barely any room to spare. If space is an issue I recommend using low profile ramps to get some more ground clearance. For reference the floor jack I am using is the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Low Profile 3 ton jack. Have used it for years and never had an issue.

As I mentioned, you will need another floor jack to lift both sides so the car is not too uneven. I used a simple 1.5 ton scissor jack to keep up with the other side and once I got my jack stands underneath on one side, I completed the other side with the floor jack. This might sound sketchy and believe me I thought it was a little sketchy as I was doing all this but I ran into zero issues/movement and never heard any unusual sounds. What I really like most about this idea is that it's pretty simple and quick! Plus, the bars are easy to store away in a corner.

I hope all this makes sense and hope it goes without saying the bar and placement of the pinch weld adapters need to be perfectly measured out. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Really proud of this idea and happy to see it come to life haha

 

[techdude99]

I have another option for you all...Really proud of this idea and happy to see it come to life haha

Very interesting option. Did you need to trim any plastic?

 

[autoregression]

I use a ETA MFG Rennstand. I used to have a quickjack, but it took up too much space in the garage, and was a beast to move around. In searching for a better home-enthusiast solution, I tried out an integrated jackpoint/jackstand. It's not cheap (although much less than a quickjack), but you get a fairly unique product that is easy and simple to use. The whole thing neatly stores on a shelf, but in ~5 minutes I can have the entire car a foot in the air.

Because of the low rockers, first I jack the car up 4 inches, then I put two 2x6 blocks under the wheel. Then I lower the jack enough to put the Rennstand head in place. Then re-jack and install the proper jackstand. Repeat each corner.

 

[techdude99]

I had the QuickJacks and ended up returning them because they weren't quick and it was a real PITA to get them positioned correctly.

My CT4 BW had CF1 &CF2.

The last generation Camaro was relatively easy in comparison.

 

[mfcentex]

I think it's pretty quick. I agree with the storage issues. I have mine on the walls. The problem is getting them down. I have the 7000TLX model, so they weigh 100lbs each. Not easy to lift the full weight and maneuver it to the ground. Once on the ground, the added ball bearings make it easy to move.

 

[Sergio]

I think it's pretty quick. I agree with the storage issues. I have mine on the walls. The problem is getting them down. I have the 7000TLX model, so they weigh 100lbs each. Not easy to lift the full weight and maneuver it to the ground. Once on the ground, the added ball bearings make it easy to move.

I keep mine under the car, move them out before I pull the car in the garage to lift it. I have the ball bearings to move them too.

 

[jollymon]

I have another option for you all, especially if you don't want to go the quickjack route like me (it just doesn't seem as universal as I'd like, it takes up a lot of space, and still seems like a pain to set up each time). It's by far the least expensive option, but still very safe. The only thing is you will need a second floor jack or scissor jack.

So, using these pinch weld adapters, I had the idea of bolting them on to each end of a bar and using a floor jack to lift the center of the bar. You will want two bars to be safe so you can lift each side relatively. I worked with a local machine/fab shop and they made my idea come to life. The prototype had a little bend to it, so they welded additional pieces to both sides of each bar and applied some pre-bend to it. Not only did this add structurally rigidity to the bar itself but when lifting, the bar would essentially work itself back to 0 degrees. They only charged me $100 for each bar. The main thing to consider is the car is obviously low as is, so you need a low profile jack. When you add the diameter of the bar, in my case 1.25 inches, you really don't have much space to work with, but it worked out perfectly with barely any room to spare. If space is an issue I recommend using low profile ramps to get some more ground clearance. For reference the floor jack I am using is the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Low Profile 3 ton jack. Have used it for years and never had an issue.

As I mentioned, you will need another floor jack to lift both sides so the car is not too uneven. I used a simple 1.5 ton scissor jack to keep up with the other side and once I got my jack stands underneath on one side, I completed the other side with the floor jack. This might sound sketchy and believe me I thought it was a little sketchy as I was doing all this but I ran into zero issues/movement and never heard any unusual sounds. What I really like most about this idea is that it's pretty simple and quick! Plus, the bars are easy to store away in a corner.

I hope all this makes sense and hope it goes without saying the bar and placement of the pinch weld adapters need to be perfectly measured out. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Really proud of this idea and happy to see it come to life haha

I really like this concept. Well done. It's got my mind spinning now as I get frustrated with the time and "theatrics" needed to get a car lifted and safely held on all four corners in my current garage/driveway situation using ramps, floor jacks, and wheel cribs.

 

[spearfish25]

Hoping we can consolidate the methods for lifting the CT5V BW.

Is the consensus that quickjacks work but you may just need to run them across the car from side to side rather than each one down the length of the car?

Do the ZL1Addons lift points work without any modifications to the car? It seems like I'd have to trim the plastic portion of the rocker since it essentially abuts the pinch welds.

 

[babyzilla]

Very interesting option. Did you need to trim any plastic?

No, I did not have to trim any plastic. I thought I'd have to especially seeing other people here mentioning it, but as I got everything set up and started jacking up, I noticed it barely was hitting the plastic part. There was some flex with the plastic, but in my opinion it wasn't worth any trimming.

I really like this concept. Well done. It's got my mind spinning now as I get frustrated with the time and "theatrics" needed to get a car lifted and safely held on all four corners in my current garage/driveway situation using ramps, floor jacks, and wheel cribs.

Thanks! I totally get it, and this is the best I could come up with. I know it's custom and only will work for this car, but it's inexpensive and super safe. Like I said, I thought I was going to need a second low profile jack and low profile ramps, but if you make the lift bar correctly, you won't need either. Plus, if you're willing to go down this route, I'm sure you have a scissor jack laying around - if not, they're like $20/$30.

 

[babyzilla]

I use a ETA MFG Rennstand. I used to have a quickjack, but it took up too much space in the garage, and was a beast to move around. In searching for a better home-enthusiast solution, I tried out an integrated jackpoint/jackstand. It's not cheap (although much less than a quickjack), but you get a fairly unique product that is easy and simple to use. The whole thing neatly stores on a shelf, but in ~5 minutes I can have the entire car a foot in the air.

Because of the low rockers, first I jack the car up 4 inches, then I put two 2x6 blocks under the wheel. Then I lower the jack enough to put the Rennstand head in place. Then re-jack and install the proper jackstand. Repeat each corner.

I came across both of these options as well and I agree - excellent products! I prefer the design of the rennstands over the jackpoints because you can modify the height and they are less bulky. Although they are truly universal, which is a huge plus, both of those options are about 4 times the cost. My biggest grip with them is the fact that you still have to jack each corner individually whereas my option only needs each side. I'm just glad we have options!

 

[techdude99]

I used Jackpoint Jack Stands years ago.

Might be worth seeing If they work on the BW. It would be a quick, safe, and easy solution.

 

[KatyTxCT5V]

Do the ZL1Addons lift points work without any modifications to the car? It seems like I'd have to trim the plastic portion of the rocker since it essentially abuts the pinch welds.

On a 5BW, the ZL1Addons pinch weld adapters will most likely touch the plastic portion of the rockers, but I found no need to trim. That portion is the inner part of the two piece rockers. It can flex without hurting the outer painted or CF rocker. I put a red square around the inner rocker piece of this area in the pic. The other pic is with the adapter mounted afterwards. I’ve had it this way for some time with zero issues. I have a 22’ 5BW.

When I removed the rockers to install the factory CF ones, I validated it didn’t hurt anything. Of course, I have to say try at your own risk .

 

[spearfish25]

On a 5BW, the ZL1Addons pinch weld adapters will most likely touch the plastic portion of the rockers, but I found no need to trim. That portion is the inner part of the two piece rockers. It can flex without hurting the outer painted or CF rocker. I put a red square around the inner rocker piece of this area in the pic. The other pic is with the adapter mounted afterwards. I’ve had it this way for some time with zero issues. I have a 22’ 5BW.

When I removed the rockers to install the factory CF ones, I validated it didn’t hurt anything. Of course, I have to say try at your own risk .

Thanks! Appreciate you posting on this. ZL1Addons makes some nice stuff, but they haven't been very reachable to ask questions.
Looks like I'll place an order.

 

[sonny200]

I have another option for you all, especially if you don't want to go the quickjack route like me (it just doesn't seem as universal as I'd like, it takes up a lot of space, and still seems like a pain to set up each time). It's by far the least expensive option, but still very safe. The only thing is you will need a second floor jack or scissor jack.

So, using these pinch weld adapters, I had the idea of bolting them on to each end of a bar and using a floor jack to lift the center of the bar. You will want two bars to be safe so you can lift each side relatively. I worked with a local machine/fab shop and they made my idea come to life. The prototype had a little bend to it, so they welded additional pieces to both sides of each bar and applied some pre-bend to it. Not only did this add structurally rigidity to the bar itself but when lifting, the bar would essentially work itself back to 0 degrees. They only charged me $100 for each bar. The main thing to consider is the car is obviously low as is, so you need a low profile jack. When you add the diameter of the bar, in my case 1.25 inches, you really don't have much space to work with, but it worked out perfectly with barely any room to spare. If space is an issue I recommend using low profile ramps to get some more ground clearance. For reference the floor jack I am using is the Harbor Freight Pittsburgh Low Profile 3 ton jack. Have used it for years and never had an issue.

As I mentioned, you will need another floor jack to lift both sides so the car is not too uneven. I used a simple 1.5 ton scissor jack to keep up with the other side and once I got my jack stands underneath on one side, I completed the other side with the floor jack. This might sound sketchy and believe me I thought it was a little sketchy as I was doing all this but I ran into zero issues/movement and never heard any unusual sounds. What I really like most about this idea is that it's pretty simple and quick! Plus, the bars are easy to store away in a corner.

I hope all this makes sense and hope it goes without saying the bar and placement of the pinch weld adapters need to be perfectly measured out. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Really proud of this idea and happy to see it come to life haha

This is what we used to do at my friend's shop specializing in Miata but didn't need to bother with the pinch weld pucks. Only needed a piece of 90 degree steel welded to the bar on either end to fit the pinch weld into. It worked very well but a Miata is significantly lighter than a 5BW so I'd imagine the steel bar needs to be pretty beefy.