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^^^Agree, and no sunroof but 10A...all for $110k...

I would expect the strut to match the condition of the spring and surrounding bits (road grime). I've had mag ride shocks on numerous GM cars and naturally spent time on the associated forums and mag ride seem more prone to leaks than standard units.

It could be the difference between a calibrated tool at the factory and your home torque wrench.

Well dang @NorCal Blackwing I guess one less north bay BW. Sorry you had to let it go, but maybe I'll see you at Turtle Rock in the Carrera.

Dealership doesn't necessarily equal competence. I understand that you need to start there to build a warranty trend, but I would still confirm the level with the dipstick and create your own baseline.

"Accelerated durability" is some decent wordsmithing, but also sort of discredits the premise that the car is track ready. I mean, most of us went to SM and accelerated the durability to be sure, but warranty shouldn't be blocked in my opinion.

I guess I would start with making sure the proper amount was installed in the first place. There are myriad underfill stories floating around here over the years. Flat level ground and let it sit overnight is where I would start. 1qt in 350 miles is extreme.

Of course you do! :cool: https://www.cadillacvnet.com/forums/threads/whats-wrong-with-this-picture.6670/post-129744

Decals on the sides of cars is a very hellcat thing to do. It's your car, make it your own, but I don't think that sort of things works on the 4/5BW.

Agreed! The transaction costs alone will buy a new LT4, with upgrades. If its your first BW and like the EV dash and soft fascia, then '25+ is the way to go.

They call this getting "ICED" in the EV world. Hopefully it was just for the funny pic?

If the filter socket on the right doesn't get it done, the filter pliers on the left are undefeated in my shop.

I learned the other day that the XP Wix filters are designed for the extended change intervals in modern cars. The filtering performance isn't as good on a micron level as the non XP filter. I thought the XP was just better all around, but for some it may not be.

I just bought it from the motive site since I was getting some other maintenance parts. https://www.motiveproducts.com/collections/replacement-parts-accessories/products/replacement-tubing-for-powerbleeders?variant=14420599734361

Quite a while...not sure how long but for how cheap hose is, it's worth changing every5 or so years I would think. When they go from clear to opaque is probably a good clue. I went all metal adapters. Brake fluid will ruin paint if its not washed off immediately, so extra caution is warranted.

I think bleeding for air in the system its more critical where you start. I can't imagine why it would matter where you start if you're just doing an exchange. I mityvac out as much old fluid from the MC reservoir as I can. I then start at the front driver as it's the shortest distance for...

Maybe...but the hours on my back cleaning the underside of precious could be better spent driving roads following my personal sweeper/moisture spotter truck.

2nd gear still has some leverage vs a higher gear, so seems plausible that a combination of that, you not expecting it, and a dash of dramatic reaction influenced your perception? Try it again and report back :cool:

I don't think any available mode can address hydroplane issues since it's mostly a function of tires and the PS4S isn't really a great heavy rain tire.

Coolant dripping indicates a leak, not a bleed issue. I suppose it could be remnants from the repair, but that would be odd after a few miles of drive time.