What "don't" you like about your BW"?

[so 650]

HA HA HA HA HA
I'm sure there is a heated USB nonsense duck-based gadget that will keep it warm and "quack" every time you switch gears!

Do not use your workplace computer when you search for "quacking USB powered stick warmer".

 

[rubberduck]

Do not use your workplace computer when you search for "quacking USB powered stick warmer".

When it comes to quacking my duck, think I’ll just use the tried and true method.

 

[markitzero]

I wish I could set my auto warming seats to not go on blast my ass, and I would love the ability to have a "default" drive mode. It would also be nice to be able to auto turn on rev match...it feels dirty to use but in the winter especially I appreciate not having to worry about dumping too much throttle.

 

[sonny200]

HA HA HA HA HA
I'm sure there is a heated USB nonsense duck-based gadget that will keep it warm and "quack" every time you switch gears!

Major issue, must sell. No heated stick.

A pair of nice, quality driving gloves fixes this issue. I prefer leather ones but have not found one that is compatible with the touch screen. Have been using a (synthetic) pair from Under Armour that have been great.

 

[white98ls]

I wish I could set my auto warming seats to not go on blast my ass, and I would love the ability to have a "default" drive mode. It would also be nice to be able to auto turn on rev match...it feels dirty to use but in the winter especially I appreciate not having to worry about dumping too much throttle.

I think you can turn the auto-warming off if that's what you mean. And you can use My Mode - it's the only mode that stays on when you turn the car on the next time.

 

[jrhammer]

2023 CT5 BW
I had few problems with the CT5. However I did go through three catalytic converters. The third replacement seems to hold. There is another small but important problem. The ignition switch/button frequently fails. I need to press it 2-6 times to get the car started or stopped. the problem worsened over time. I must take the car in again for repair, as dealers do not stock parts anymore. Does anyone else have this problem?

 

[FLYARMY]

I need to know why you went thru 3 catalytic converters on a new car ? !!!

 

[CT4-Venom]

I need to know why you went thru 3 catalytic converters on a new car ? !!!

Good question.

 

[vagabond]

I've gone through 2. It may be related to spark plugs in whichever banks are failing. Cats are emissions equipment so warranty is longer. (8yr/80k?) I recommend running the car through all RPMs as much as able, tracking it, and varying RPM ranges as much as able to blow out factory cobwebs prior to warr expr.

 

[jrhammer]

I need to know why you went thru 3 catalytic converters on a new car ? !!!

I need to know as well. Update: I just had the FOURTH catalytic converter replaced.

I pressed the service guy at the dealership — hard. I asked what the GM folks said the problem was. He just indicated that they received new firmware that automated the break-in of the converters. They had instructions before, but previously, the process was manual on their part. He thought that this was not a big enough problem (statistically) to warrant a deep investigation. I indicated it should be rather cheap to assign an engineer to investigate, as they already have them on staff. This is an unsatisfactory answer to the questions.

My hypothesis (which is little more than a guess):
It seems that materials are layered inside the catalytic converter. Each material has its own coefficient of expansion. When the converter heats up, every piece expands differently. It is possible that the break-in allows all the components to settle in with each other. If done incorrectly, the sensor would register a failure in the form of delamination that would decrease the effectiveness.

Conversely, break-in could be done in the factory with air before putting it into a car. Also, why four failures in this car?

 

[Todd]

I need to know as well. Update: I just had the FOURTH catalytic converter replaced.

I pressed the service guy at the dealership — hard. I asked what the GM folks said the problem was. He just indicated that they received new firmware that automated the break-in of the converters. They had instructions before, but previously, the process was manual on their part. He thought that this was not a big enough problem (statistically) to warrant a deep investigation. I indicated it should be rather cheap to assign an engineer to investigate, as they already have them on staff. This is an unsatisfactory answer to the questions.

My hypothesis (which is little more than a guess):
It seems that materials are layered inside the catalytic converter. Each material has its own coefficient of expansion. When the converter heats up, every piece expands differently. It is possible that the break-in allows all the components to settle in with each other. If done incorrectly, the sensor would register a failure in the form of delamination that would decrease the effectiveness.

Conversely, break-in could be done in the factory with air before putting it into a car. Also, why four failures in this car?

I've never, ever heard of a "break-in" for a cat. The way they work is basic chemistry. The bricks are "padded" in their cans with a wrap of furnace-lining type material to account for differentials in expansion/contraction, as well as vibration (which isn't limited to break-in).

For what it's worth, running rich or burning oil can contaminate and kill a cat, especially the primary (monitored) ones.

Do you burn oil?

 

[Todd]

huh, I stand corrected, but that break in process seems to refer to "lower quality aftermarket cats", not to OE-grade (which come with a much longer federally mandated warranty):

Google Search

 

[jrhammer]

I've never, ever heard of a "break-in" for a cat. The way they work is basic chemistry. The bricks are "padded" in their cans with a wrap of furnace-lining type material to account for differentials in expansion/contraction, as well as vibration (which isn't limited to break-in).

For what it's worth, running rich or burning oil can contaminate and kill a cat, especially the primary (monitored) ones.

Do you burn oil?

No buring oil. They checked out everything and only found a code for the catylic converter.

I thought they lied about the break-in as only only moving parts need to be broken in. Apparently, it is a thing. Is it possible that these particular catylic converters are different? I have a 25 year old Jaguar with its original catyitic converter.