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Detailing thread

30 years ago I was a detailer for the local Turtle Wax. Grew older and decided to let someone else do the work for me. Now coming back full circle, I don't even know how to properly wash my friggen car. I bought a foam cannon along with some Gyeon soap for it. I chose the Gyeon simply because that's what was used for the ceramic sealant on mine over Xpel PPF. I'm hoping for some basic tips from the pro's here related to a wash. Do I foam cannon over dry paint or wet first? Do I just let the foam do the cleaning or use a wash mitt? I did purchase a Cobra Gold microfiber mitt and matching towels. My chamois is apparently not the correct way for drying any longer either. I plan to use the microfiber towels but only "patting" dry, no wipes. My car rarely see's anything other than dust as it is not my DD. Separate towels and brushes will be used for the wheels. How about when I'm done with the microfiber towels? Can I wash them on their own with regular detergent? TIA for any help!
 
30 years ago I was a detailer for the local Turtle Wax. Grew older and decided to let someone else do the work for me. Now coming back full circle, I don't even know how to properly wash my friggen car. I bought a foam cannon along with some Gyeon soap for it. I chose the Gyeon simply because that's what was used for the ceramic sealant on mine over Xpel PPF. I'm hoping for some basic tips from the pro's here related to a wash. Do I foam cannon over dry paint or wet first? Do I just let the foam do the cleaning or use a wash mitt? I did purchase a Cobra Gold microfiber mitt and matching towels. My chamois is apparently not the correct way for drying any longer either. I plan to use the microfiber towels but only "patting" dry, no wipes. My car rarely see's anything other than dust as it is not my DD. Separate towels and brushes will be used for the wheels. How about when I'm done with the microfiber towels? Can I wash them on their own with regular detergent? TIA for any help!
There are products made for specifically washing microfiber towels.
 
There are products made for specifically washing microfiber towels.
You can wash microfiber with regular detergent, the key is to only wash them with other microfiber towels, not to mix cotton and microfiber, or the cotton fibers will become stuck to the microfiber. The other key is not to use any fabric softener when you wash any car towel, neither liquid fabric softener in the wash nor dryer sheets.

I wash the car with a microfiber wash mitt and two buckets. I always spray the car down first with water to get as much loose dirt off as possible. I dry the car with a silicone water blade/squeegee and then cotton towels.
 
30 years ago I was a detailer for the local Turtle Wax. Grew older and decided to let someone else do the work for me. Now coming back full circle, I don't even know how to properly wash my friggen car. I bought a foam cannon along with some Gyeon soap for it. I chose the Gyeon simply because that's what was used for the ceramic sealant on mine over Xpel PPF. I'm hoping for some basic tips from the pro's here related to a wash. Do I foam cannon over dry paint or wet first? Do I just let the foam do the cleaning or use a wash mitt? I did purchase a Cobra Gold microfiber mitt and matching towels. My chamois is apparently not the correct way for drying any longer either. I plan to use the microfiber towels but only "patting" dry, no wipes. My car rarely see's anything other than dust as it is not my DD. Separate towels and brushes will be used for the wheels. How about when I'm done with the microfiber towels? Can I wash them on their own with regular detergent? TIA for any help!
Foam cannon is not needed. That is your choice if you need it at each wash or not. Normal soap is not really going to do much cleaning. The water pressure does most of the cleaning, unless you get a soap that's not PH neutral. Usually you need a basic (on PH scale) soap to do much cleaning just from foaming. If the car is just dusty you can foam, rinse and blow dry and have a touch less wash. Foaming is supposed to allow dwell time for the soap to soften up anything stuck on the paint. I'm not sure it actually does anything that a normal rinse wouldn't do.

I have a foam cannon. I use it for certain things. For instance after a 1000 mile road trip I foamed our car down with Gtechniq citrus wash as it is more powerful than a standard shampoo and helps loosen grime, bugs etc. Then I rinse with the pressure washer, then I wash. I always start with wheel/tires/calipers. Then I wash the body of the car with 4-5 microfiber towels. I use 16'x16" and fold twice. I use each "square" for each section, then flip/fold as I move on and when that towel is dirty on each square I toss in a bucket to sit and wait until it's towel wash time. I found this is faster than using a soap bucket and a rinse bucket and always ensures nothing is getting rubbed on the paint. I do use a separate wash bucket for wheels/tires.

I rinse as needed to keep from soap drying on the paint. Once finished washing, I rinse using deionized water (I have hard well water) and I blow it dry, focusing mainly on areas that hold water. Body seams, mirrors, wheels/tires. A good method to dry is to remove the nozzle and turn the water down and start from the top and let the water sheet off. If your car has something hydrophobic on it most of the water will sheet off. I cannot do that with my CR Spotless is the GPM is too high.

I use a griots PFM drying towel, or, one of the many other types/brands of drying towels I have, to get any remaining water. You can pat dry. It's the absolute safest method infusing a towel. I just drag if it's a lot of water and pat if it's small sections. Using a drying aid is up to you. I tend not to as they will make your drying towels less absorbent. Afterwards I hang dry my towels and wash as needed. I sometimes will use a quick detailer or coating booster with 16x16 microfibers after I blow dry the car and these keeps the more expensive drying towels from getting clogged with products.

I use a microfiber specific wash. I find it helps get the towels performing better than normal laundry detergent. But you can use normal detergent. As previously noted do not use one with fabric softener in it and do not use fabric softener at all. Wash separately as they will have lint etc stick to them otherwise. I dry on low heat. If you medium setting is under 140 degrees F you can use that but around there is where microfibers can melt.

Gyeon makes good products. They actually make soaps just for PPF that I'm looking into since I have a full
PPF wrap on my 5VBW.

Good luck and enjoy washing your car!
 
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30 years ago I was a detailer for the local Turtle Wax. Grew older and decided to let someone else do the work for me. Now coming back full circle, I don't even know how to properly wash my friggen car. I bought a foam cannon along with some Gyeon soap for it. I chose the Gyeon simply because that's what was used for the ceramic sealant on mine over Xpel PPF. I'm hoping for some basic tips from the pro's here related to a wash. Do I foam cannon over dry paint or wet first? Do I just let the foam do the cleaning or use a wash mitt? I did purchase a Cobra Gold microfiber mitt and matching towels. My chamois is apparently not the correct way for drying any longer either. I plan to use the microfiber towels but only "patting" dry, no wipes. My car rarely see's anything other than dust as it is not my DD. Separate towels and brushes will be used for the wheels. How about when I'm done with the microfiber towels? Can I wash them on their own with regular detergent? TIA for any help!
Same here, I operated the first mobile detailing center in NYC, 30 years ago. My last 7 toys were all black cars that were never PPF. I'm not beating myself anymore so I ordered my 5BW in Rift.. haha, should finally see this toy this month.

Anyway, here is my $.02

Rinsing the car first is critical to removing contaminants, etc. I use a wide pattern spray/hose that has high PSI (just not like a pressure washer PSI).

Then I use the cannon with ceramic shampoo since my DD, AMG is coated. Next is the 2 bucket system, they both have a screen type device at the bottom of buckets designed to be rubbed onto to remove any contaminants from my microfiber mitts. Don't apply any pressure when washing, just enough pressure to move your mitt, to avoid any marring, aka, fine scratches.

Then I run water down the car (hose set a 1/2 open valve) without any nozzle at end of the hose.

I have a small yet powerful blower to dry the entire car, if needed, M/F towel to dab any small water areas. Then sit back and smile.

M/F towels washed in warm water/heavy duty cycle works best. Like others said, only M/F towels in the wash and let air dry. If you put the towels in the dryer the tiny M/F fibers will pick up other debris stuck in the dryer drum that your eyes don't see. Also, I add 1oz of specific microfiber additive to the normal wash soap.

If you put a little time into the process of the wash, you will get high rewards.

I just helped detailed my buds 04 GTP with 150k miles on the clock, he was shocked how she came out. I should've charged him.. LOL
 

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Guys, thank you for the info.
Serious question, is it ok to use my leaf blower after the wash to remove water?
Absolutely!
 
I don't like the leaf blower because to me you can blow unfiltered air and sand blast the paint....... I use this and love it,,,
 
Guys, thank you for the info.
Serious question, is it ok to use my leaf blower after the wash to remove water?
Yes, it's the best way. Don't use gas...too much exhaust gets into the air stream and can undo your work cleaning the car.

I don't worry about getting the car 100% dry with the leaf blower (as my neighbors 1. wonder why I am cleaning an already "clean" car, and 2. think I'm crazy for using a leaf blower on my car.) since I use some micro fibers towels and P&S Beadmaker to finish the drying and add shine. The best thing about the leaf blower is that it gets all the water out from the door handles, mirrors, wheels, etc. so you don't chase down drips forever.
 
I don't like the leaf blower because to me you can blow unfiltered air and sand blast the paint....... I use this and love it,,,
Love my Adams Air Cannon! Eliminates one of the biggest risks of creating swirls and scratches in your paint which can happen during hand drying.
 
Guys, thank you for the info.
Serious question, is it ok to use my leaf blower after the wash to remove water?
I do although, I’d like to get one of those blowers specific for blow drying cars as I understand that they have a heating element that evaporates the water rather than just displacing it.
 
Yes, it's the best way. Don't use gas...too much exhaust gets into the air stream and can undo your work cleaning the car.

I don't worry about getting the car 100% dry with the leaf blower (as my neighbors 1. wonder why I am cleaning an already "clean" car, and 2. think I'm crazy for using a leaf blower on my car.) since I use some micro fibers towels and P&S Beadmaker to finish the drying and add shine. The best thing about the leaf blower is that it gets all the water out from the door handles, mirrors, wheels, etc. so you don't chase down drips forever.
I’m a P&S Beadmaker and their other products user as well.
 
Love my Adams Air Cannon! Eliminates one of the biggest risks of creating swirls and scratches in your paint which can happen during hand drying.
I don't like the leaf blower because to me you can blow unfiltered air and sand blast the paint....... I use this and love it,,,
I bought the Adams Air Cannon just for this car. Also using a foam cannon, now. My wife thinks I am nuts.

A leaf blower just doesn't direct enough concentrated velocity to be useful. Plus, it is dirty air and cumbersome to use. MHO
 
I bought the Adams Air Cannon just for this car. Also using a foam cannon, now. My wife thinks I am nuts.

A leaf blower just doesn't direct enough concentrated velocity to be useful. Plus, it is dirty air and cumbersome to use. MHO
Mine too, blow dry my car but not my hair😆
 
I use this. Turbo button works great. Less than 5 minutes to remove water from car. The key is to consistently blow water down towards the ground. Lots of trees in my yard so quite handy in the fall for leaf removal.

 
Surprised no one has mentioned rinseless washes yet.

I've been converted and only break out the 2 bucket if the car is REALLY dirty.

Plus ONR is so versatile 1 jug does mostly everything I need. 🤷‍♂️
 
Care to explain to us plebe's how the rinseless works?
 
Surprised no one has mentioned rinseless washes yet.

I've been converted and only break out the 2 bucket if the car is REALLY dirty.

Plus ONR is so versatile 1 jug does mostly everything I need. 🤷‍♂️
I do waterless in between full on water washes using a detail spray. I use P&S Paint Gloss Showroom Spray N Shine. After a full water wash, I use P&S Beadmaker Paint Protectant.
 
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