You'll want those swivel impact sockets, a couple ~10" extensions, a 2-3' pry bar, a good headlamp or magnetic flashlight and a deep and shallow 15mm socket. Every bolt you touch is pretty much a 15mm. A few 13mm's on a bracket that holds the 2 stock downpipes.
Took me about 2 hours of touch time. Maybe an hour or so of figuring out how to do things. I had to order some wobble/swivel impact sockets. Both deep and shallow in 3/8th's. Unplugging the primary o2's was probably the hardest part.
I bought one of these things from a guy that 3D prints them. When I'm ready for some wheels, at least I can see what will fit the wheel well. Clearing the rear calipers is it's own fun.
Even with the suspension set on full race, at higher speeds I feel like it's either getting lift, or there just isn't enough stiffness in the springs. I could really go for about 2kg more per corner at least. I'd have thought the adjustable dampening would be sufficient, but find it's still...
I agree, I wouldn't want to drive around with CELs on either. Tapout has a module in addition to the tuning that clears the light. I'm thinking to go about it another way though with some other trickery
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