There's nothing "optimal" about a near 4000lb track car.
Just focus on seat time and your driving.
Focus your money and efforts on optimizing the driver, not the car. Then move on to a (low powered) dedicated track car.
I am looking for aftermarket wheels as I hate the OEM ones. Looking for something more aggressive, but not tuner looking. Just so the car doesn't look so "old man/grandpa" given it's definitely the understated car amongst its competitors.
Also, feel free to post suggestions.
BTW: How wide can...
brakes are funny like that. They can FEEL one way but perform another.
A big source of "butt dyno" inaccuracy comes from initial bite. On a dyno ,it would be a spike and then it comes back down. It feels like, oh man, I have strong brakes, but you dont want that. You want a smooth and...
I move to where I want
I press set
I press the corresponding driver number
It beeps
Next time it’s right back to where it was! Same thing with both keys. Is there some super secret setting?
Hard to compare. One is on 2500lb BRZ on 245s, the other is on a freaking viper on 305/355s. And they were driven on different days.
You really dont want bit initial bite. You want smooth modulation.
Yeah, it’s just not worth it. I have race cars that are for racing and my street car is for getting me around.
With that said, I give myself a year before I crank this car up to 1000hp
Am I the only one who wishes 6th was taller, if anything? It's fine the way it it is, but I miss the hyper-tall 7th in my C7. I get into 6th around 55-60mph and don't really feel a need to drop it into 5th unless I really want to pass fast.
I love those quite, low rpm, low engine brake, high...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.