Regret not getting carbon fiber.

[tommyroo]

Went racing on a track with my ct4-v blackwing.

It handles really well but not nearly as good as I wanted. I'm sure much is due to my lack of skill but damn, I was losing traction quite a bit.

I never realized there wouldn't be an option to add it on later.

I really need that extra downforce to be competitive.

Advice? Pats on the back? Not sure why I'm posting.

 

[Yalferd]

PDR video you can post to show what the car was doing?

 

[Dirkbg]

There is an option to add it later. Just takes money and time.

 

[jbawden]

What track where you running and at what speeds was traction an issue?

 

[Tall Steve]

I have driven both on the track (with and without) and I could not tell the difference, but I'm not a professional... I really think you have to be hauling the mail to really tell a difference...

 

[DustinEarnhardt]

You'll notice a crap ton more track performance by just changing tires and brake pads than you would adding a ton of sparkly CF bits.

Also, and maybe I'm just reading too much into it here, but based on the fact that you went "racing" at a track day, I'm guessing you don't have a ton of track experience. The other thing that will make your lap times drop significantly is by doing more laps. There's no replacement for seat time.

 

[daviddi92]

What was your tire pressure cold and hot? I would start there and with tires and an alignment.

 

[jbawden]

I've been a moto track day instructor for years and newbie track riders always think with more power they will go faster. It's enlightening for them when they learn the club racers on 400's are going 20 seconds a lap faster than them on their liter bike. @tommyroo I'm certain investing is skills training over carbon farkels is going to improve your experience on many levels.

 

[bl4ck_wng]

There is an option to add it later. Just takes money and time.

What was the cumulative time to install all of the CF bits? I would like to purchase the whole set and install it myself, but I also have a close friend who does body work if I will need some help. Trying to gauge it out/see if its a feasible DIY

Also, I absolutely dig the CF on shadow metallic. Looks so clean

 

[WONT TAP]

We have all the CT4-V Blackwing carbon fiber pieces at roughly half of Cadillac's prices:

Appearance Archives - Tapout Tuning

www.tapouttuning.com

 

[wschomburg]

PDR video you can post to show what the car was doing?

and then import into cosworthtool box to aid in where you need to focus on modifying your deficiencies

 

[Matt27]

I have driven both on the track (with and without) and I could not tell the difference, but I'm not a professional... I really think you have to be hauling the mail to really tell a difference...

Echoing this for my 4BW as well. My personal car has CF 1/2 and my Spring Mountain car did not. I know they say it's functional, but we're still talking about realatively minor changes here. It's never going to turn into a GT3 RS or a Senna where there's real aero down force.

My guess is you'd only really feel it beyond 130 or so and mostly for high speed stability. In low/medium speed corners you're talking about almost nothing.

Were you losing traction at the front or the rear? Seeing the PDR would be helpful, as others have said.

 

[tommyroo]

Yeah. I'm positive more seat time would help.

This is only my second time taking it here but I figured every little bit would help.

Here are two of my laps

This next one really shows my lack of skill, lol.

 

[bl4ck_wng]

Yeah. I'm positive more seat time would help.

This is only my second time taking it here but I figured every little bit would help.

Here are two of my laps

This next one really shows my lack of skill, lol.

Thanks for the PDR film -- crazy question -- did you have your toe and camber set more aggressively prior to road course use?

A street alignment on any track will contribute to enhanced screeching and squealing at 8/10ths and beyond effort/pace -- it translates into the feeling of not having complete grip and you can hear it

 

[tommyroo]

What was your tire pressure cold and hot? I would start there and with tires and an alignment.

Cold was set to 35. Don't recall what they went up to after they were 'warm'. in the 40s. Should I of lowered the pressure?

Thanks for the PDR film -- crazy question -- did you have your toe and camber set more aggressively prior to road course use?

A street alignment on any track will contribute to enhanced screeching and squealing at 8/10ths and beyond effort/pace -- it translates into the feeling of not having complete grip and you can hear it

Nope. I did not adjust the toe or camber. Not really sure how.


EDIT: Stock brakes too. Suggestions?

 

[Dirkbg]

I ultimately used all OEM parts for the nose, and the Tapout rear spoiler. I live nearby so I held their spoiler up to their car's OEM spoiler and they looked identical. Big savings on that vs. OEM list. Tapout didn't have the front splitter at the time so I ordered an OEM splitter which was in stock. I found the Tapout dive planes and deflectors didn't match the OEM splitter carbon fabric color, so I returned the dive planes and ended up all OEM for the nose parts. I suggest you use all Tapout or all OEM for the nose since they are noticeable if they don't match perfectly.

I got all my carbon parts from GMpartswarehouse at reduced prices from MSRP, and their shipping was very reasonable. The dive plane supports were not yet reproduced, so I ordered a new fascia (bumper cover) and ended up removing them from that and attaching them to my original fascia. I had to order the fascia at a local dealer because shipping for that was more than the cost of the fascia.

Here is the parts price list for what I ordered. The ultimate cost was a lot more for me because I was learning as I went, and found out that painting the new slotted fascia was not the best idea, and cutting the slots was not difficult and saves painting costs (and PPF and ceramic). Also a few dollars for screws, clip nuts, and plastic clips from Amazon. I didn't include tax and shipping since that will vary.

GM Parts

Part Number Part Name Price
84667808 Air Deflector $7.46
84667807 Air Deflector $5.96
85563054 F Fascia (splitter) $729.98
84996873 F Deflector $590.16
84996874 F Deflector $619.67
84586281 F Deflector $577.47
84586282 F Deflector $577.47
85153560 F Fascia $301.20
Core Exchange$75.00

Tapout Tuning Parts

Tapout Tuning CT4-V Blackwing $1,795.63
Carbon Fiber Extra Aero Rear
Spoiler

You can see the summary of my experiences listed on this post: CT4 Front Dive Planes

 

[bl4ck_wng]

Cold was set to 35. Don't recall what they went up to after they were 'warm'. in the 40s. Should I of lowered the pressure?

Nope. I did not adjust the toe or camber. Not really sure how.


EDIT: Stock brakes too. Suggestions?

I had to go on a treasure hunt in my PC for this one haha (please see SM specs in pic above)

All PSI readings assume OEM tires (the shoulders on TPC spec tires are from a cup 2 and are specific to the BW)

Lower the starting pressure for track use - it should increase to 35psi when all warmed up. These will vary slightly depending on the ambient temps & surface conditions.

This is just my opinion: Leave any alignment adjustments to a qualified service department unless you have access to the right laser equipment and really know what you are doing. I learned early on that not all service departments are equal with respect to servicing your BW - find one you like (and can trust) if you plan on running it on the track.

In my experience, the steel brakes on the 4BW are incredible as is, with my only gripe being the immense amount of brake dust. I have seen some guys on here running alternative brake pads, but I can't speak to any perceived benefit of doing so, aside from less brake dust.

 

[Neveready]

It addition to seat time, what modes were you in?

I've had good luck in PTM Sport. Just hit the V button on the wheel twice.

 

[tommyroo]

It addition to seat time, what modes were you in?

I've had good luck in PTM Sport. Just hit the V button on the wheel twice.

Dry until tires warmed then sport. I'm not brave enough for Race.

Seat time in the Caddy. I've owned it for 1.5 years. Track time, prior to this 4 hours. Now like 7.

 

[tommyroo]

I had to go on a treasure hunt in my PC for this one haha (please see SM specs in pic above)

All PSI readings assume OEM tires (the shoulders on TPC spec tires are from a cup 2 and are specific to the BW)

Lower the starting pressure for track use - it should increase to 35psi when all warmed up. These will vary slightly depending on the ambient temps & surface conditions.

This is just my opinion: Leave any alignment adjustments to a qualified service department unless you have access to the right laser equipment and really know what you are doing. I learned early on that not all service departments are equal with respect to servicing your BW - find one you like (and can trust) if you plan on running it on the track.

In my experience, the steel brakes on the 4BW are incredible as is, with my only gripe being the immense amount of brake dust. I have seen some guys on here running alternative brake pads, but I can't speak to any perceived benefit of doing so, aside from less brake dust.

Thanks for the specs on pressure. It is obvious my tires were over inflated during my run, I'm sure that didn't help.

This is my daily so I doubt I will mess with camber/toe.

I agree on the brakes. They bit hard and never faded, though they were smoking a bit after a long run, lol.



All in all this car handles incredibly well for being a 3800 lbs sedan. I hope to own it forever.

P.S. I signed up to run Sebring raceway next. 3.7 miles of twists and turns. Should be fun.