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Its just a dent. A skilled paint-less dent repair place should either completely eliminate it or nearly completely. These guys do what looks like magic to the common man. I know its aluminum, but they should be able to handle it. Consider that before you spend $2k or whatever it is to replace.

The noise that the CT5BW makes with an aftermarket exhaust (maybe even stock). I love it. The only thing of value to me that I am missing out with my 4BW.

30-40 something car enthusiasts is more like it. Honestly the only thing that really draws me to the 5 is the noise. I dont like big cars and that engine issue on the 5 just not worth the price for that risk. A tuned 4 is plenty go for me and the handing is magical. It is more nimble than the 5...

Ct5bw are in a different world when it comes to depreciation, compared to the ct4bw. The ct5bw depreciation is low. That alone could be a good enough reason for someone who is interested to stretch from the 4 to a 5. You know that you would loose less % wise with a 5 when its time to sell.

They do depreciate heavily. The reason you see low mileage cars for sale is because cars like this are more of an impulse buy for the demographic that buys them. Similar to any performance car like this. People get into them and when the dopamine hit wears off, they realize they would rather...

Remove the few fasteners and pull back carefully. They are all held by clips. It takes some tugging to get them to let go. Unplug the battery and the front retractors exploding are not a concern. Yes there are some very small explosives for activation. Rears are dummies. Just a ratchet. Thats...

For these struggling with this, if you buy a $10 obd dongle, you can use the torque app to see if your sensors are ready and not waste time driving to the test center to find out they are not. I think even the free version of the app has that capability. If not, the full version is like $5

What I have seen regarding these cars is that the dealers price them just slightly under the normal car price and then wait for a sucker that doesn't understand what they are getting. And they seem to always find one.

Ohh....so much for that. I bought the ct5bw belt for my cr4bw because they discontinued the red ct4bw center last year since they were done building special edditions (excent for the new blue accents one). There goes the red ct5 I guess.

The center seatbelt part number is 84815212. I paid $65 for it from GMPartgiant. Got the entire set from there with a coupon code. Install is straightforward but there were a few things to figure out on the way. Like how to unlatch the rear side bolsters, etc.

I dont want my car going to the dealer for anything I am paying for.

Its only useful for warranty issues. Had the same situation with our BMW (tire sidewall got cut on a railroad crossing). Paid for a tow to Discount Tire and then immediately added roadside to my insurance policy.

A bit of a problem with mods that cause cel that needs to be cleared...Come emission testing time, it might be a problem getting all the sensors to ready between the reset and testing. I know some states allow one sensor to be not ready.

I can't remember every reading positive feedback on any carbon fiber hoods. Its just too big of a part to fab to OEM quality fit.

Yup. These damn screws. All stripped out. One was good 1/8" from full seating and there was some movement when the lid around it was pushed down. Didnt have time to take the inlet hose off to get to it, but merely pushing down the lid seemed to have resolved it temporarily. Will fix it this...

Same here. I have been meaning to ask about that. Pretty annoying.

I've had the larger tube lid for about a week and a half, though I don't drive that much. The good: definitely quicker throttle response, and it does pull stronger. The not so good: I did already get the CEL and reset it with my torque app. I don't like how the revs hang when coasting in neutral...

Its the shifter mounting plate bushings. Old issues going back to ATS-V. Do a search and you will find lots of discussions. They all wear out way too prematurely. Then there are the shifter assembly bushings waring and falling apart. But that's a separate story.

Doesn't JB4 make the lid with larger tubes redundant? JB4 is already spoofing readings. What is the lid going to be doing?

Manual. Or I would have been driving an M3 competition