I actually tried that metallic gold Sharpie trick on my tech bronze wheels and it works surprisingly well for small scuffs - just make sure to clean the area really good first.
Yeah I'd go with a compromise alignment somewhere between street and track settings - maybe -1.8 to -2.0 degrees front camber instead of the full -2.5 since you're doing more street miles than track time.
Yeah I've been doing my own oil changes on the BW just to avoid this exact situation - too many horror stories of dealers using whatever they have on the shelf.
You might have accidentally hit the stealth mode button - check your infotainment settings and look for a "stealth" or "minimize display" option to turn off.
Try the manual method from jwolf99 but make sure you're really pulling hard on the door handle while turning the key - sometimes those mechanisms get stiff when they haven't been used much.
The brake pad sensor might have gotten damaged or is malfunctioning - I'd definitely have the dealer check it out since saying "no" should make that message go away and the front pad reading jumping to 0% sounds like a sensor issue rather than actual wear.
Yeah, I guess so.
I'm actually more worried about heat management now. Do the vents like on this 350z hood actually help to cool down the engine or are they mainly for feeding air into the intake? Mine is stock (not the open K&N style)
Hey everyone! So I've been eyeing carbon fiber hoods for my gen2 for a while now. I love the aggressive look, and I know there's some weight savings involved (I've heard anywhere from 20-40 lbs depending on the brand), but here's my dilemma...
I'm about 95% street driving, maybe hit the track...
Yeah that Tremec can be finicky when cold but once it warms up mine shifts much better - just gotta baby it those first few miles until the trans temp comes up.
Sounds like it could be a bad injector like Comment 2 mentioned - that combo of rough idle and stabilitrak error is pretty common when the engine isn't running smooth.
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