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That's an aggressive alignment for the street and is the reason for the inside wear. You should be around -1.0 in the front. The purpose of the SPC camber bolts is to allow for more camber than the OEM setup allows. They aren't used to lessen camber. Go do a track day to even out the wear. :)

Got the rear end back in Notice the SPL Toe Links? It also received Refined Performance Sway Bar and Swift Spec "R" springs when going back in. Front also received the new sway bar, springs and camber plates.

Add the PDR and HUD :)

You have to drop the whole rear end to put these in. These are the solid rear cradle mounts that would come on a Camaro ZL1 with the 1LE track pack option.

Dropped the ass out of the car today. Gotta make it faster!

How much?

Nobody's mentioned a clay bar?

For those that are more serious about their track days, you need rear air duct deflectors as well as front. Use the ones that came with the car on the rear and buy 5BW air duct deflectors for the front. Here's are pictures of the 4BW deflectors that come with the car and 5BW deflectors...

I just checked my OEM pads that were taken off at 14K and 4 track days. They look as thin or thinner than yours. My mechanic installed my Porterfield R-4 pads in about 30 minutes and said have a nice day - no charge. There was no need to turn the rotors. I've got 2K miles and 2 track days on...

Our rotors can be turned. In fact, you can make them as lite as the GiroDisc rotors. No need to fear any micro cracking you might see if you've gotten them hot from track use. This information comes straight from John Heinricy.

For those that don't know, the advised PSI range above is the PSI when the tires are hot. I go out at 27 PSI cold and am at 34PSI by about the 4th lap. DO NOT go out on the track with standard street PSI.

I first looked at replacement pads for tracking to address the concern of potential brake fad. Then I learned what they are really about. It's the increase stopping power that makes them needed by those that are driving hard on the track.

Track specific toe links - only needed for getting aggressive with the camber. As you drive faster, camber will become very important.

https://wildhammermotorsports.com/16-24-camaro-zl1-1le-spec-solid-rear-cradle-mounts-chevrolet-performance/?sku=84341929&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19606329784&gbraid=0AAAAADEUw9sb8gI756vIynGlJdll3USTO&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_rPGBhCbARIsABjq9cc4ZSXzdqiZf971XbanqcRGvkkRmE1YfYkMfI-pNTEjb9AUNTlkXxMaApeeEALw...

Slowing me down? Oh no, that's not me. That is the John Heinricy during the final laps of the 2023 SCCA T-2 Run Offs. That's the best of the best showing what our Blackwings are capable of. Here's the full race.

You need a lot of camber to make them work. I'm going with 3.7 front and 2.1 rear. In the back you need to remove the rear shock dust boot and trim the edge off the upper bumper cup as the tire can hit it and get cut. Opps! Don't forgot the Camaro solid rear cradle mounts. Hoping to have...

Yes, they can fit. Watch this - this 4BW is running 295 and 315 Hoosier A7's. Yeah, spicy!

I can't help you with that, busy working on it myself. However, if I could drive a Lamborgini at 90% I'd be faster than the professional driver driving a 4BW at 100%. So I'm going to work on bettering the car, while also bettering myself. Here's a hot lap at VIR with just camber and tires...

Suspension: camber plates, toe links, sway bars and springs Brakes: full race pads on the front Tires: you can go as far as 295 front and 315 rears. You'll shave a lot more off your lap times with handling improvements than you will by increasing power.