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I'm not an expert, I'm learning as I'm going through this. And yeah, there's a lot of conflicting info out there. I watched your videos. In "What is Camber? A Simple Explanation" it says most vehicles use positive camber, but racing/off road applications use negative camber. We're dealing...

Granted, I know these AI generated answers are often wrong, so my second reference point is John Heinricy. He was a GM engineer in the Performance Division for 40 years and life long race driver. He presently runs a CT4-V BW in the SCCA Touring 2 class. I've been speaking with him and he's...

Well, here's one reference point:

Front toe should be out, NOT in!

The toe link that comes in the trunk allows for more camber than the "OEM" part. Needed for those that are tracking their cars. With the Precision Package toe link installed, you can't get to a basic alignment for regular street driving. The "OEM" one gives you a range between a regular...

Well, I thought I found something significant, but now I'm not sure. Could I get some more eyes on this to make sure I'm reading the alignment report correctly? All the numbers look good for camber, but isn't the little diagram showing the wheel leaning in the wrong direction? It's showing...

If there're bonus points for IMSA or Mondrian/Impact versions, seems like your willing to pay more for CF 1 & 2 and other things. Dig a little deeper and grab a 1 of 50 Petite Pataud editions. With a new purchase you also get the 2 day track driving school at Spring Mountain.

That's an aggressive alignment for the street and is the reason for the inside wear. You should be around -1.0 in the front. The purpose of the SPC camber bolts is to allow for more camber than the OEM setup allows. They aren't used to lessen camber. Go do a track day to even out the wear. :)

Got the rear end back in Notice the SPL Toe Links? It also received Refined Performance Sway Bar and Swift Spec "R" springs when going back in. Front also received the new sway bar, springs and camber plates.

Add the PDR and HUD :)

You have to drop the whole rear end to put these in. These are the solid rear cradle mounts that would come on a Camaro ZL1 with the 1LE track pack option.

Dropped the ass out of the car today. Gotta make it faster!

How much?

Nobody's mentioned a clay bar?

For those that are more serious about their track days, you need rear air duct deflectors as well as front. Use the ones that came with the car on the rear and buy 5BW air duct deflectors for the front. Here's are pictures of the 4BW deflectors that come with the car and 5BW deflectors...

I just checked my OEM pads that were taken off at 14K and 4 track days. They look as thin or thinner than yours. My mechanic installed my Porterfield R-4 pads in about 30 minutes and said have a nice day - no charge. There was no need to turn the rotors. I've got 2K miles and 2 track days on...

Our rotors can be turned. In fact, you can make them as lite as the GiroDisc rotors. No need to fear any micro cracking you might see if you've gotten them hot from track use. This information comes straight from John Heinricy.

For those that don't know, the advised PSI range above is the PSI when the tires are hot. I go out at 27 PSI cold and am at 34PSI by about the 4th lap. DO NOT go out on the track with standard street PSI.