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I think struts or more generally suspension are the likely places to focus, but have you checked lug nuts for the proper 140 ft-lbs?

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Sounds like it's the turbo encabulator. There's troubleshooting details at the end of the video.

At Spring Mountain they put us on a skid pad with all the nannies turned off and it was damn near impossible to do the lazy figure 8 course. We were all swapping ends with even the smallest amount of throttle or steering input. Then they turned the nannies back on and it was like the car knew...

https://www.cadillacvnet.com/forums/threads/fuse-panel-access.5626/post-118907 F30

Interestingly, air filters get BETTER as they get dirtier (to a point of course). This is because dust attracts dust. So if you think aggressively changing your air filter early is helping like with your oil change intervals, you're actually wrong.

Yeah that is uncommonly good service for a dealership. You should name them so people nearby can patronize them.

Yeah the inside of your engine bay would have been a mess and you'd have seen some evidence on the driveway as well.

Well if you know you're in one of the modes with all the tiles then you may have enabled the 'simplify' or 'stealth' modes. Try turning those off.

Here's an excerpt from an Ars Technica story on car theft techniques: The rest of the article is on the "CAN Injection" method, but cars from the last few years have implemented countermeasures that make it less likely to succeed. Regardless it would be cool to capture the communication and be...

This is the control schernov is talking about: You are probably in a different mode like Tour or Ice/Snow which doesn't have all the info panels on the left. You probably want to get back to "My Mode" or "V mode." Getting back to V mode is easy- mash that V button on the steering wheel...

Saves your battery and is also an anti-theft measure. Edit: Our cars have a 'sleep mode' for the fob. If the fob is stationary for 2-3 minutes it stops transmitting so the Faraday box isn't strictly needed unless, like me, you prefer a belt + suspenders approach for certain things.

For shorter periods of time when you aren't driving you could use transport mode if you don't have a battery tender handy: -Begin with engine Off -Turn on the hazard flashers -Press and hold the brake pedal -Press the start button and hold for @ 15 seconds "Transport Mode On" will appear on the...

There's videos out there. Apparently that stretch of road is popular for showing off and driving like a maniac so there's always kids filming.

Killed himself and the passenger. Save that crazy ish for the track. https://www.nbclosangeles.com/news/local/video-game-developer-vince-zampella-crash-call-of-duty/3819576/

Detectors are the same class of offense as tint or front plate meaning they can't use that as the sole reason to pull you over. Furthermore even if you do get cited it's a fixit ticket. They've really watered it down from the old days of officers confiscating them.

You can try updating the firmware as newer firmware has better false-positive filters. The V1Driver app may also help you eliminate false-positives. It costs $10, but is cheaper than getting a different detector.

Here's another option: 1. Remove the front bottom plastic cover so you can access the hood release cable. 2. Pull on the cable to access the hood (this assumes the CT5 routes the hood cable the same as the CTS in the video) 3. Charge or jump-start the car

Since you can access underneath, maybe try supplying power to the starter via jumper cable? That should get you enough power to open a door. Sadly this is an area where the 4 is better than the 5. The 4 retains the mechanical door locks so if you lose power you can still open the door.