Brake pad install questions

[Rob CT4-V]

Getting ready to do pads. Never changed pads on Brembo's but it looks simple enough though. What are some do's and don'ts for this car? Just looking for any gotchas that can be avoided.

Thanks

 

[Mircrowaved_Bananas]

Make sure you disconnect the battery before doing anything. It's possible if you leave the battery installed and you have the key on you while working, the car will self test the brakes and that's not ideal when there's no pads installed.

Other than that it's really simple, just punch out the pins, remove the bracket, pull out the pads, use a caliper spreader to push the pistons back into the caliper (if the spreader isn't large enough to get all 6 pistons, you can use the old pads to help evenly push them back in), install new pads, reinstall the bracket and pins, done. Reconnect the battery when you're done with everything.

Re-installing the pins can be a little tricky cause there's not a lot of space to hit them hard enough to get them set, so using something like a small piece of wood can help.

I really like the Brembo system, makes changing pads a breeze. I can have all 4 corners swapped in under an hour no problem.

 

[Rob CT4-V]

Perfect. Thank you!

 

[Dirkbg]

I just did mine using the Powerstop Z26. I would also suggest reusing the original pins if you're doing the same. The rear pins just were slightly fatter and shorter and didn't want to go in nicely. If the original pins are in good shape, clean them and reuse them all. I took extra time cleaning the brake dust off the hard to reach areas of the calipers too. That adds a lot of extra time, but I think it's worth it for longevity of appearance.

Before you start have a punch, or a couple of punches handy to drive out the pins. I've watched videos where the person is scrambling for all kinds of parts to use as a punch like a drill bit. I used a nail setter punch to start which worked really well because it's concave at the tip. Then I switched to a conventional tip long nose thin one to go the rest of the way (I have a lot of punches...). Using the right tool, they go out pretty easily. Also, the steel spring in the center puts pressure on the pin and it stays tight all the way through. Push down on the spring and the pin will come out easier once it's halfway out. The second pin won't have the pressure since the first pin isn't levering on the spring at that point. You'll see what I mean once you get into it.

Also, it may not be clear in the pad instructions but the important lube point is the edges on the sides where the caliper guides it as it drops in.

 

[Rob CT4-V]

Thanks guys. Just finished burnishing them in. Took about 2.5 hours from driving on a 2x6 to dropping it down. Since everything was off, extra time to clean the calipers and wheels. It was literally the easiest brake pad install I've ever done.

I put the Power Stop pads in and they seemed to haul this thing down pretty good when I was putting some heat to them. Cooling and hopefully, no more dust!

Thanks again for the tips, appreciate it.