Recent content by piranha971

Keep in mind the buyer fee at these sites. For a 100k car, its the max 5% or $5,000 they charge. So the buyer factors that in.

I get to know the owner a bit by email and on the phone, build some trust. Check records on the car: CARFAX, warranty status, etc. Get detailed photos and a rundown of any known issues. The cars I buy are relatively new and under warranty. I test drive them when I fly in to pick them up with...

The wheels will poke out a bit less in the front and a bit more in the back. They will work fine.

For some additional perspective: I ran the car through Carnana to see what they would pay and established a fair sell/buy price several thousand dollars above that.

Well, how much to list it for depends how quickly you want to sell it. If not in a hurry, I would list it at the high of the KBB private party value and see what the interest is. I bought my car from someone asking the same question in THIS forum and we worked out a deal that worked for both of...

Having an X5 xdrive 40i in the family, I would never get into that BMW trap again. The tire depth balance requirements and that transfer case....... Man, never again. sdrive all the way.

Gold mine. Thank you

I dont think most people do it after breakin. It depends on how you use the car. Track driving, sure that would be a good idea. I replaced it at 20k on my atsv and it looked completely fine. Not planning to replace it before whatever the manual calls for in my 4bw.

Through the door seal on the outside of the car so there are no permanent holes.

Given history of engine failures, you'd have to be either totally ignorant of the issue or be a gambler to get into it without a powertrain warranty. The issue is that dealers are trying to sell these cars at basically normal car prices and wait for these that don't know any better.

I had the same issue on my ATS-V. A bit of rattling on clutch release when I bought it at 13k miles that came and went. Never there when I wanted to show it to the dealer. Then at around 30k, all of a sudden started shuddering where I could not take off smoothly. It became unpleasant to drive...

Slightly thinner oil killed the engine under normal street use?

You have to loosen the vacuum plate and slide it out of the way. Its just a few bolts including the ones that hold the solenoids on top in place. There is nothing to it. You cant really get to the connector without doing that.

I am not talking about just traction. The way the car feels going into corners and going over pump, the way it reacts to inputs. Yes, the compounds are different.