CT5-V Thinking about dropping Precision Package on my order

[tiembo]

Hi everyone, long time reader, first time poster.

I’m on the fence on the Precision Package for my order, and wanted to poll the community to see if I have all the right info for opting out of the PP.

Currently I’m first in line for a 5BW allocation at a local dealership. I have it configured with Precision Package with the PS4S (instead of the Cup 2 Rs), but after talking with an owner and reading forum posts, I think going without the PP might work better for my needs.

My plan is to track this car 2-4 times a year and drive it occasionally on the weekends. My biggest worry is the CCBs and replacement cost, which is the biggest deciding factor. Ideally I’d like to get the PP without the CCBs but it doesn’t look like that’s an option.

The increased brake dust with iron brakes is an acceptable tradeoff. I’m already used to it, as I currently have a GR Corolla (which also has very dusty brakes).

Plus, since I only have a handful of HPDE track events under my belt, I’m not sure if I can even extract every last bit of performance from a 5BW at this time, much less a PP one.

I do plan on keeping the other options for the Full Semi-Aniline Leather Seats with CF setback delete and the suede steering wheel and shifter.

Other than better suspension bits + recalibrated computer + CCBs, what else am I missing out on if I pass on the Precision Package? Or is my concern about the CCBs with track days overblown?

Also, will this increase the changes of the dealership getting an allocation?

 

[best3175]

I have the precision Package only because it is the only way I could find the car spec'ed they way I wanted it. Cup 2 Rs are noisy, but you are spec'ing PS4S.

The precision packages does come with Track Suspension linkage that you install for track days. As well as additional components and programming.

I'm curious if the precision package will help with resale value...or not?

 

[tiembo]

I'm curious if the precision package will help with resale value...or not?

I could see it going both ways. The additional suspension hardware and programming is a plus, but then there's the unknown of needing to replace the CCBs.

 

[best3175]

I could see it going both ways. The additional suspension hardware and programming is a plus, but then there's the unknown of needing to replace the CCBs.

Everyone I talk to with experience with CCBs has not had an issue. They require extra care when removing and reattaching the wheels. Otherwise, I think you really have to try and damage them. And even if you track them, we are going hard for 15 minutes at a time. Unless your road course is really tight then I doubt you damage the CCBs. Yes, you can find horror stories, but they wouldn't be offered if they were really that fragile.

 

[FLYARMY]

If you can afford it....do it. It will help resale value later, but you won't get ALL of the cost back. If you never track your car, its up to you whether its just some extra bling that will never be used. My only regret was not getting the PDR for my car.

 

[Todd]

My 2c:

Without the Cup2R tires, I think there is marginal advantage from the PP. R compound tires alone will transform a car. Recent magazine test results seem to back up my hypothesis.

There are currently no lowering springs that will fit a PP car, and I preferred an aesthetic improvement from slight lowering, so another reason for me to pass on the PP.

There’s not much of a tactile advantage to the semi-aniline seats. Most choose that option simply for the carbon backs, which you can’t see when driving the car, nor if you tint the windows, and they tend to creak for quite a few people. Save your money and do the mid tier seats.

Carbon Cermics are worth every… damn… penny. I regret not opting them on my RS6, as the lack of dust is just simply wonderful. I loathe cleaning wheels. They will last forever with street driving and the occasional light track use.

Suede steering wheel and knob was a 100% no for me after having them on past cars. They are impossible to keep clean and end up gross and matted after a short time.

 

[tiembo]

Thankfully the 2026 models come with PDR standard, otherwise I'd definitely add it to the build.

 

[nordique14]

I have a precision package car. The biggest hassle with the CCB is the limited selection for replacement brake pads. When I say limited, I mean very limited…only factory GM pads are currently available. And they are very expensive. I know most people talk about how expensive the rotors are but you will probably not be replacing them for a long time even if you occasionally track. But if you did 2-4 track days a year then you will go through a set of brake pads every 2-3 years. Much better and cheaper selection of pads for the iron rotors.

If you do not mind brake dust and are not searching for that last tenth on the track, then you can skip the precision package without any regrets.

 

[tiembo]

Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences. I ended up removing the precision package from my order.

And now back to waiting for an allocation...

 

[fish monger]

You made your mind up and good for you , I have the PP and i like the firm smooth ride on cup2R's and running thru the gears , I won't track the car ,but I'm a sucker for the handling goodies and the CCB brakes was a must .

 

[vfv]

Sounds like this isn’t your priority, but assuming the dealer lets you spec the car yourself, you can decide if you want the precision pack at the time that you get your allocation. If there’s anything on constraint, you wouldn’t be able to spec it with that allocation, but they I think they still give you the right of first refusal

 

[Champale]

I am not sure that I have heard of anyone complaining about the regular 5BW handling under most circumstances, including at Spring Mountain. I freaking love my 2024 5BW and its cornering prowess is shockingly good.

However, I have ordered a 2026 5BW PP to sit alongside the '24 . . .

 

[white98ls]

Carbon Cermics are worth every… damn… penny. I regret not opting them on my RS6, as the lack of dust is just simply wonderful. I loathe cleaning wheels. They will last forever with street driving and the occasional light track use.

Suede steering wheel and knob was a 100% no for me after having them on past cars. They are impossible to keep clean and end up gross and matted after a short time.

I will recommend the same cleaning products I always do for dirty wheels and Alcantara.

Sonax Wheel Cleaner... Spray on and pressure wash off, gets rid of almost all brake dust on my Tech Bronze wheels (just need to tidy up some spots where I miss with the spray).

Koch-Chemie alcantara cleaner used every 4 months or so takes no more than 5 minutes and keeps my wheel and shift knob looking and feeling great.

Not getting CCBs pains me more for the weight savings not realized than the lack of brake dust or any improvement in braking performance. But I don't regret saving the $9k.

 

[Todd]

Sonax Wheel Cleaner... Spray on and pressure wash off, gets rid of almost all brake dust on my Tech Bronze wheels (just need to tidy up some spots where I miss with the spray).

So I just got back from a 12hr road trip with the RS6 and she was fillllthy.

I was about to give her a nice bath but I remembered my man white98Is singing the praises of the Sonax so I said why not, could be The One, after all the middlin’ results I’ve had with other wheel cleaner brands, like P&S, Nanolex, Meguires.

So plunked down the 26 bucks and had 16.9 ounces of dustbuster inside a spay bottle prime overnighted.

I spray doused my dry black 22” Vossens, with half the bottle, waited 8 minutes, rinsed them off with my deionized water goodness and blew them dry.

“I’ll be gawdamned” I sure said to myself. “These wheels are looking dustless.”

That was from 5 feet away. Once I sat down next to them with my headlamp, the real story revealed itself: still dusty, especially in the spots that didn’t get a full soaking (despite my best efforts).

Better than others? Yes.

But unless I used up the whole $26 bottle, I’d still be left with unacceptable dust, to my eyes. Black wheels, in all fairness, are unforgiving.

I see you can buy the stuff in bulk, and that could drop the cost per dose to $10, but let’s be honest: that’s still really salty per wash.

So I still say: buy the CCBs. You will not regret it.

 

[RDATLTE]

So I just got back from a 12hr road trip with the RS6 and she was fillllthy.

I was about to give her a nice bath but I remembered my man white98Is singing the praises of the Sonax so I said why not, could be The One, after all the middlin’ results I’ve had with other wheel cleaner brands, like P&S, Nanolex, Meguires.

So plunked down the 26 bucks and had 16.9 ounces of dustbuster inside a spay bottle prime overnighted.

I spray doused my dry black 22” Vossens, with half the bottle, waited 8 minutes, rinsed them off with my deionized water goodness and blew them dry.

“I’ll be gawdamned” I sure said to myself. “These wheels are looking dustless.”

That was from 5 feet away. Once I sat down next to them with my headlamp, the real story revealed itself: still dusty, especially in the spots that didn’t get a full soaking (despite my best efforts).

Better than others? Yes.

But unless I used up the whole $26 bottle, I’d still be left with unacceptable dust, to my eyes. Black wheels, in all fairness, are unforgiving.

I see you can buy the stuff in bulk, and that could drop the cost per dose to $10, but let’s be honest: that’s still really salty per wash.

So I still say: buy the CCBs. You will not regret it.

When you said dustbuster, it made me think of my favorite flavor:

 

[Apex Eater]

The only way I’ve been able to accomplish a true “spray away” result with brake dust on wheels is giving them a thorough decontamination wash and polish, then coating with this: Wheel Coating
I have a couple cars I wasn’t able to spec with CCB’s, my F-Pace SVR being the worst, 22” black wheels, and this is a life saver.

 

[stephen k]

I just ordered and took delivery of a car with all the options including precision pack. I also wondered a lot about the pp and if I should order it.

I have 700 miles on the car are my observations are that the springs are for normal driving the car is stiffer and you can feel all the small bumps, but as the tires warm up and as I get more miles on the car, I feel it less and less. The big bumps, I feel are almost the same on a car without precision. The car on throttle and in corners is noticeably better with pp. I feel like with 4-5 k miles on it, the precision pack springs and all components around it will break in and will smoothen out the ride. I car about ride quality the most and am really picky with this, but I think it’s going ok so far.

Ccb’s are robust. I have had them on nearly all my Porsches including my daily driven Cayenne, the rotors will last forever if it’s just driven on the street, you just need to change the pads before they get run down. The caddy academy had them on their cars and the instructors said that they don’t change the rotors, just the pads and they have been fine.

I don’t do hdpe or track days and I notice the pp and enjoy it. Just getting back into some canyon driving as of recent with buddy’s who all have gt3’s.. ( I used to be a 911 guy, I’m a blackwing guy now especially now with kids) .

I think you need pp . I ordered it with ps4s

 

[lunyx]

I was also in this dilemma and ended up without the PP. I did get the CCBs, though. I do wonder how much you really notice with just the PS4S. It seems like Stephen had both and notices a difference, but there are also others who say that it doesn't help much if you don't have CUP2s and aren't tracking. I'm guessing that having PP without cup2s might make you 1% faster (just based on lap time differences), but would be hard to notice if you aren't fully pushing the car on public roads. You would notice all the small bumps when dailying, though. A bunch of people have also told me that the base car is already amazing, so I guess I'll see how it is. My TPW is 8/10, really hoping I didn't make the wrong choice here.

 

[Todd]

It’s even more extreme of a difference when it comes to tires. It’s PS4 vs Cup2R. R compound is super sticky and gets maybe 2k miles of life on the street.

 

[jbawden]

I think PP without cup tires and no intention of tracking is an odd choice. But, we all get to make choices and if just having PP allows you to enjoy the car more, then by all means it’s worth checking that box. For a street car, the non-PP is incredible performer.