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CT4-V Brakes at 5mm only 12,000 miles

Cadillac CT4-V model

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V-Series Cadillac(s)?
2024 CT4V Black wing
I took the CT4 BW in for an alignment and the service report recommended new brakes front and rear for only $ 2,500 dollars
New tires because the entire center of the tires was smooth with no tread lol. I priced new OEM pads retail $ 750 per axle. bought
a front set of carbotech XP-10's. Will do the rears later. I drove my XTS-V 122,000 miles relaced the front pads at 70,000 and
the rears needed new pads when I traded it for the BW. I checked the pads my self when I got home and they are down to
about 5mm front and rear. Wonder if anyone else has run through a set of pads this fast.
 
Wonder if these have the same issue as newer Civic Type-R/Integra Type-S the stability control on those uses brakes excessively. They wear through rear pads entirely too fast.

Test drove a CT4 BW with 20k miles. It had warped rotors. Seeing more premature brake wear threads on the forum but not a reason why other than driving habits which I don't agree with when it's happening across the board.
 
I'm curious why you're replacing the OE pads with Carbotech XP10s. I was under the impression that the XP10s are for autocross and HPDE.
 
I'm curious why you're replacing the OE pads with Carbotech XP10s. I was under the impression that the XP10s are for autocross and HPDE.
I HPDE the car and daily drive some. XP-10 are about 1/2 the cost of stock pads. I run them on my C5-Z and 1996 Impala with no issues other than dust.
 
I HPDE the car and daily drive some. XP-10 are about 1/2 the cost of stock pads. I run them on my C5-Z and 1996 Impala with no issues other than dust.
94-96 Impala SS is on my bucket list. Good fleet.
 
I HPDE the car and daily drive some. XP-10 are about 1/2 the cost of stock pads. I run them on my C5-Z and 1996 Impala with no issues other than dust.
You should be bragging about being able to do autocross and HPDE and still get 12,000 miles with 5 mm left on your front pads. Unless of course you're no where near competitive :ROFLMAO:
 
I took the CT4 BW in for an alignment and the service report recommended new brakes front and rear for only $ 2,500 dollars
New tires because the entire center of the tires was smooth with no tread lol. I priced new OEM pads retail $ 750 per axle. bought
a front set of carbotech XP-10's. Will do the rears later. I drove my XTS-V 122,000 miles relaced the front pads at 70,000 and
the rears needed new pads when I traded it for the BW. I checked the pads my self when I got home and they are down to
about 5mm front and rear. Wonder if anyone else has run through a set of pads this fast.
On GM Parts website i got front pads for $411 after tax, they offer some pretty good deals and msrp was like ~$800 for them not including tax , and for my both front rotors (OEM of course) they go for $1,200 each not including tax but i got them BOTH for $1,711 after tax might wanna check that out how do you do that you may ask you would have to select a dealer within your state before checking out you simply input your zip code or any zip code you know based on your state and compare whos got the best price now you can order through that dealer you selected or can ask your local dealer if they can price match because sometimes the one you select doesnt ship so you would have to go pick them up yourself BUT you can always ask your local dealer if they price match which they often do now i hope that helps anyone if they are looking for parts cause i know these things can be insanely expensive and can add up lol
 
Test drove a CT4 BW with 20k miles. It had warped rotors. Seeing more premature brake wear threads on the forum but not a reason why other than driving habits which I don't agree with when it's happening across the board.
I have a real hard time believing anyone is getting warped rotors. I don't believe there is anyone on this site pushing their car as hard as I am. I just pounded on the poor thing for 2 days straight in over 90 degree temps. It's carbon deposits, not warped rotors. If I'm not warping rotors, how possibly could anyone else?

Dam, you guys are paying too much for brake pads. Porterfields are $280 front and $160 rear.

Don't be talked into replacing your rotors until you've gone through 2 sets of pads. The micro cracks you see are meaningless.
 
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On GM Parts website i got front pads for $411 after tax, they offer some pretty good deals and msrp was like ~$800 for them not including tax , and for my both front rotors (OEM of course) they go for $1,200 each not including tax but i got them BOTH for $1,711 after tax.
Let's add this up, $1,200ea for front rotors and $1,000ea for rears, so that's $4,400 for rotors. Then roughly $1,600 for pads, so something like $6,000 to replace with OEM parts. Catch some really good deals and maybe you can get that down to $4,000.

Or $3,500 to switch to CCB including the pads. Why would anyone buy iron? You're going to go through 3 sets of those OEM parts during the time I go through one set of CCB.
 
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Let's add this up, $1,200ea for front rotors and $1,000ea for rears, so that's $4,400 for rotors. Then roughly $1,600 for pads, so something like $6,000 to replace with OEM parts. Catch some really good deals and maybe you can get that down to $4,000.

Or $3,500 to switch to CCB including the pads. Why would anyone buy iron? You're going to go through 3 sets of those OEM parts during the time I go through one set of CCB.
My understanding with CCB is typically you need more rotor surface area than iron to match their braking performance. There was a discussion on this in the C8Z forums can't find it now.

You have to remember you're a unique individual that track rats their CT4 BW and doesn't care about using Alibaba parts. I'm 100% supportive of this. However, the majority are not willing to do this.

As far as your CCB vs iron costs comparison iron is always cheaper. I'm sure there's cheap China iron rotor options.

Lastly, while CCBs are lighter and people always think they're losing rotational weight making a huge difference with brakes it makes less of an impact than wheels and tires. Removing weight furthest from the hub (tires) makes the biggest difference then wheels then brakes. This is why you see a lot of track guys with factory CCBs (Porsche, C7/C8, etc) switch to iron. Cheaper costs and performance is the same. If you're purely after overall weight reduction nothing wrong with CCBs.
 
#1 - My understanding with CCB is typically you need more rotor surface area than iron to match their braking performance. There was a discussion on this in the C8Z forums can't find it now.

#2 - You have to remember you're a unique individual that track rats their CT4 BW and doesn't care about using Alibaba parts. I'm 100% supportive of this. However, the majority are not willing to do this.

#3 - As far as your CCB vs iron costs comparison iron is always cheaper. I'm sure there's cheap China iron rotor options.

#4 - Lastly, while CCBs are lighter and people always think they're losing rotational weight making a huge difference with brakes it makes less of an impact than wheels and tires. Removing weight furthest from the hub (tires) makes the biggest difference then wheels then brakes. This is why you see a lot of track guys with factory CCBs (Porsche, C7/C8, etc) switch to iron. Cheaper costs and performance is the same. If you're purely after overall weight reduction nothing wrong with CCBs.
1 - This doesn't make sense to me, CCB is known to have superior braking capabilities. Are the rotors on a 5BW with CCB larger than iron rotors? I don't think they are. The guy here who already put Chinese CCB on his 5BW that were an identical sized drop in part has reported he had to recalibrate his braking foot so he didn't put his face through the windshield. He apparently expeirenced an increase in braking capability with no increase in rotor surface.

2 - Well, that's what I'm trying to educate people about. You are literally getting the EXACT same part, made in the exact same factory, using the exact same equipment, by the exact same workers. The ONLY difference is you invite a middleman into the equation who doubles the final price to the end consumer. You can buy a set of wheels from the ABC Wheel Co for $3,000, or you can buy the wheels direct from the factory that makes them for the ABC Wheel Co for $1,400.

3 - I still feel when you consider the fact that a person would go through 3 sets of iron brakes during the period a single set of CCB would last, the iron still cost more in the long run.

4 - Absolutely correct about the greater benefit coming from weight reduction furthest from the hub. I would think rotational mass is the least of the reasons for CCB. I would think that less rotational mass would benefit acceleration more so than braking. I would think the primary reason for CCB is the reduction in unsprung weight, which improves handling.

4 part B - I've had this conversation with brake suppliers and people at the track. The universal opinion is that people that check the box to add expensive high performance brakes to their car at purchase, but then removed the high performance brakes to drive the car on the track are morons that in most cases bought more car than they can afford. They are so financially stretched by the car purchase, they don't want to face a $10K brake job. So they drive their expensive high performance car in a high performance situation using less than high performance parts.

And please also consider it's not just about being cheap. I'm buying my wheels, brakes and tires on Alibaba, but I'm also the guy running Motul 300V 5w40 Competition Racing oil at $22/quart and I change it every 500 miles, which means every 3 days.
 
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