Carbon Fiber Steering Wheel

[LongGrayLine16]

Took me about 3 hours to complete this one… Not quite as straight forward as my C7 carbon steering wheel was. Working to edit the videos I took so I can post my lessons learned.

What do you guys think?

 

[Tall Steve]

Awesome!!!! I want one too!!!! So jelly!!!!!

 

[KatyTxCT5V]

Wow! Your work is incredible!

 

[DustinEarnhardt]

Awesome! Where'd you order it from?

Do the 4 and 5 have the same steering wheel?

 

[LongGrayLine16]

Awesome! Where'd you order it from?

Do the 4 and 5 have the same steering wheel?

I customized it through TTDCraft (@ttdcraft on instagram). I just sent them DM’s outlining exactly what I wanted. I ordered it back in August of last year when my CT5BW had a September 22 EDD… Didn’t get here till JAN23. So I was being teased by the wheel in my garage the whole time.

As far as I can tell, the CT4 and CT5 use the same wheel. The Blackwing specific trim at the bottom of the wheel proved to be some challenge in putting it together.

 

[G.Newt]

How's the heating function? Still work and get pretty warm?

 

[LongGrayLine16]

How's the heating function? Still work and get pretty warm?

Nope! Gotta give up the heated steering wheel for this one. Although it is nice to have, I never once missed it in the 20k miles I put on my C7 grand sport. The Carbon fiber wheels with perforated leather feel soooo nice in your hand. Just my two cents. Totally worth it for me.

 

[DustinEarnhardt]

Awwww dang... dealbreaker for me. I'm really enjoying the heated wheel. Looks sharp though!

 

[LongGrayLine16]

Here is the detailed install video for anyone wondering.

 

[LongGrayLine16]

Here was my step-by-step process:

1. turn wheel 90 degrees in each direction in order to have access to the trim panels on the side of the wheel. remove the small trim panels on the back of the steering wheel that will expose 2 bolts (1 on each side). These bolts hold in the air bag. Return wheel to centered position.
2. pop trunk. disconnect negative terminal of battery and stow away so that the terminal will not come in contact with the wires. LEAVE the trunk and driver door OPEN! It is all electric switches, so if you close after disconnecting, you won’t be able to open it. Wait 10 minutes or so for residual battery to drain. This is a piece of mind step to ensure that when you remove the airbag it doesn't go off.
3. return to the cab. using a 10 mm socket, remove the two airbag retention bolts. with that, the airbag should be free to remove. there will be three harness plugs connected to the airbag. one black, one pink, and one purple. The black connector has a red lock - pull the lock backwards from the connection and press down the black center tab while pulling apart. This is the horn. The pink and purple plugs will have orange tabs on either side of the switch. use a small flat head or pick to lift on both sides of the orange tabs while pushing away from the airbag. the connectors should pop out and the airbag will be completely removed now.
4. to remove the steering wheel controls wiring harness there will be a yellow multi-wire connector at the top. inside the connector is a red tab on the bottom center that is the connector lock. that will need to be pulled back in order to depress the tab, allowing you to remove the harness from the steering column's connector.
5. using a T50 socket and breaker bar, remove the steering wheel center bolt. from the factory, thread locker is applied so some may be harder than others to remove. i braced the bottom of the wheel with my legs to try and reduce force on the steering column. it took some force, but it did break free.
6. with the steering wheel bolt removed, the wheel should come free - just gently pull towards yourself from the 3 and 9 positions on the wheel.
7. DO NOT MESS WITH THE CLOCK SPRING. just leave it be
8. To remove the trim and buttons from the OEM wheel:
   1. Start with the back. Using a T15 bit, remove all the exposed screws on the back of the panel. in the 6MT cars, the paddle shifters are replaced with a cool Easter egg (check it out for yourself, both sides are different). These rim panels are going to need to be removed too, exposing 1 screw on each side that is the mounting method for the front steering wheel controls.
   2. The back trim piece should come off, with all screws removed, with ease. There will be a small wiring junction box that is retained in the back trim by a tab on the top. i just pulled it forward and up and it came right out.
   3. the wiring harness for the controls are mounted using plastic tabs. i used needle nose pliers and my T15 screwdriver to depress the tabs and pop them out of their slots. 4 in total. easy and straight forward.
   4. the front control panel/switches/trim are all one piece. in order to separate them from the wheel, you should first unplug the steering wheel heater connector. same style as the horn connector on the airbag. with the front of the steering wheel facing away from me, i put my thumbs on the back of the "V Mode" and "PTM" button/switch and began to apply pressure. after enough effort, and some pulling/wiggling from the front one side at a time, the whole harness came right out.
9. Now, you should be able to turn your attention to the aftermarket steering wheel. This is where things got tricky for me.
   1. Because the Blackwing's bottom trim is different than the standard CT4/5's and is the only model with the "V Mode" and "PTM" button/switch, the replacement wheel needed some modification.
   2. I realized that that trim piece had some plastic mold supports that were interfering with the dense foam of the steering wheel mold. Also, the data plate at the bottom of the wheel has about a ¾” long cylinder that pokes out the back of the trim. I had to remove a “U” shaped channel at the base of the wheel to make room for this. Use the factory wheel as a reference point to see what it needs to look like.
   3. I used a brand-new blade on a utility knife to begin trimming material from the wheel. Piece by piece. Very slowly and methodically, test fitting the front controls and back panel to see my progress. I also used the original steering wheel, and its foam supports, as reference to see where the replacement one had some fat that could be trimmed.
   4. I took my time with this (45 minutes or so) to ensure that I wasn’t trimming too much, to the point it would expose any unfinished part of the wheel when reassembled.
   5. When happy with the test-fitting, begin by replacing the two screws (one each side) holding in the control switches. None of this needs to be gorilla tight. Just tight enough. This should also ensure the switches are seated properly in the cubbies of the steering wheel. Replace the paddle shifter covers before putting the back trim on.
   6. Replace the back trim panel using all the screws previously removed. I first put in each, only beginning the threads. I then slowly tightened them all little by little, like lug nuts, to pull together the trim evenly. I didn’t want to crack anything. Remember to replace the black wire junction box in its compartment on the back trim piece.
   7. With the trim all connected again, you should be able to pop the wiring harness tabs back into their places.
   8. The new wheel should be ready for install now.
10. The “drive shaft” (electric power steering, so not really a drive shaft) is splined and has a locating shaft at the 6 o’clock position that only allows the wheel to go back on one way. Gently align the new wheel with the shaft and clock spring and shimmy it into place, being careful to not move the clock spring behind it (align the wiring harness connector with the appropriate slot in the wheel. Once firmly seated, go ahead and reconnect the yellow main wiring harness.
11. Now for the steering wheel bolt. Use the same T50 from before and begin to thread it back in, making sure its not cross threaded. You can add some more medium strength thread locker, but I never have (the old thread locker schmoo provides enough resistance when it goes back together that I am confident with it). My C7’s steering wheel was just as tight when I took it off 2 years later as when I put it on. Using a 3/8” torque wrench, I tightened the bolt to 35 ft-lbs.
12. Ensure the heated steering wheel connector is tucked down into the bottom trim and the harness is out of the way. If you opted for a wheel with heated function, disregard as the connector will already be plugged in and out of the way. The airbag can now be reconnected. I connected the pink and purple first, they just pop right back on and automatically lock into place. The horn connector is next. After plugging in, press the red locking tab back into place. Return the horn into the wheel and check the sides of the wheel to ensure the bolts will align. Insert both bolts and finger tighten. Once both are in, tighten them in a similar manner as lug nuts. These don’t need to be gorilla tight either, just tight enough. Probably 20 ft-lbs. They weren’t crazy tight to begin with. Replace the trim panels that cover these bolts.
13. You are now ready to reconnect the battery. Attach and tighten the negative terminal. Return to the cab to check function of all buttons.
14. After disconnecting the battery, the dash will instruct you to lower and raise all the windows. Follow the prompts. Check all buttons are functioning properly. The heated wheel button will no longer operate if you elected to not get a heated replacement wheel, and I have not had any fault codes present themselves.
15. Your install should now be complete! Enjoy your new wheel!

Let me know if you have any questions if you ever try to do this yourself!

 

[LongGrayLine16]

Awwww dang... dealbreaker for me. I'm really enjoying the heated wheel. Looks sharp though!

Looks like the company now has an option to retain the heated steering wheel functionality. Of course its an upcharge. I wish it was available at the time i ordered mine! They are using my wheel as a marketing piece. CT4/CT5 Carbon Wheel - TTD Craft

 

[bloominguez]

Here was my step-by-step process:

1. turn wheel 90 degrees in each direction in order to have access to the trim panels on the side of the wheel. remove the small trim panels on the back of the steering wheel that will expose 2 bolts (1 on each side). These bolts hold in the air bag. Return wheel to centered position.
2. pop trunk. disconnect negative terminal of battery and stow away so that the terminal will not come in contact with the wires. LEAVE the trunk and driver door OPEN! It is all electric switches, so if you close after disconnecting, you won’t be able to open it. Wait 10 minutes or so for residual battery to drain. This is a piece of mind step to ensure that when you remove the airbag it doesn't go off.
3. return to the cab. using a 10 mm socket, remove the two airbag retention bolts. with that, the airbag should be free to remove. there will be three harness plugs connected to the airbag. one black, one pink, and one purple. The black connector has a red lock - pull the lock backwards from the connection and press down the black center tab while pulling apart. This is the horn. The pink and purple plugs will have orange tabs on either side of the switch. use a small flat head or pick to lift on both sides of the orange tabs while pushing away from the airbag. the connectors should pop out and the airbag will be completely removed now.
4. to remove the steering wheel controls wiring harness there will be a yellow multi-wire connector at the top. inside the connector is a red tab on the bottom center that is the connector lock. that will need to be pulled back in order to depress the tab, allowing you to remove the harness from the steering column's connector.
5. using a T50 socket and breaker bar, remove the steering wheel center bolt. from the factory, thread locker is applied so some may be harder than others to remove. i braced the bottom of the wheel with my legs to try and reduce force on the steering column. it took some force, but it did break free.
6. with the steering wheel bolt removed, the wheel should come free - just gently pull towards yourself from the 3 and 9 positions on the wheel.
7. DO NOT MESS WITH THE CLOCK SPRING. just leave it be
8. To remove the trim and buttons from the OEM wheel:
   1. Start with the back. Using a T15 bit, remove all the exposed screws on the back of the panel. in the 6MT cars, the paddle shifters are replaced with a cool Easter egg (check it out for yourself, both sides are different). These rim panels are going to need to be removed too, exposing 1 screw on each side that is the mounting method for the front steering wheel controls.
   2. The back trim piece should come off, with all screws removed, with ease. There will be a small wiring junction box that is retained in the back trim by a tab on the top. i just pulled it forward and up and it came right out.
   3. the wiring harness for the controls are mounted using plastic tabs. i used needle nose pliers and my T15 screwdriver to depress the tabs and pop them out of their slots. 4 in total. easy and straight forward.
   4. the front control panel/switches/trim are all one piece. in order to separate them from the wheel, you should first unplug the steering wheel heater connector. same style as the horn connector on the airbag. with the front of the steering wheel facing away from me, i put my thumbs on the back of the "V Mode" and "PTM" button/switch and began to apply pressure. after enough effort, and some pulling/wiggling from the front one side at a time, the whole harness came right out.
9. Now, you should be able to turn your attention to the aftermarket steering wheel. This is where things got tricky for me.
   1. Because the Blackwing's bottom trim is different than the standard CT4/5's and is the only model with the "V Mode" and "PTM" button/switch, the replacement wheel needed some modification.
   2. I realized that that trim piece had some plastic mold supports that were interfering with the dense foam of the steering wheel mold. Also, the data plate at the bottom of the wheel has about a ¾” long cylinder that pokes out the back of the trim. I had to remove a “U” shaped channel at the base of the wheel to make room for this. Use the factory wheel as a reference point to see what it needs to look like.
   3. I used a brand-new blade on a utility knife to begin trimming material from the wheel. Piece by piece. Very slowly and methodically, test fitting the front controls and back panel to see my progress. I also used the original steering wheel, and its foam supports, as reference to see where the replacement one had some fat that could be trimmed.
   4. I took my time with this (45 minutes or so) to ensure that I wasn’t trimming too much, to the point it would expose any unfinished part of the wheel when reassembled.
   5. When happy with the test-fitting, begin by replacing the two screws (one each side) holding in the control switches. None of this needs to be gorilla tight. Just tight enough. This should also ensure the switches are seated properly in the cubbies of the steering wheel. Replace the paddle shifter covers before putting the back trim on.
   6. Replace the back trim panel using all the screws previously removed. I first put in each, only beginning the threads. I then slowly tightened them all little by little, like lug nuts, to pull together the trim evenly. I didn’t want to crack anything. Remember to replace the black wire junction box in its compartment on the back trim piece.
   7. With the trim all connected again, you should be able to pop the wiring harness tabs back into their places.
   8. The new wheel should be ready for install now.
10. The “drive shaft” (electric power steering, so not really a drive shaft) is splined and has a locating shaft at the 6 o’clock position that only allows the wheel to go back on one way. Gently align the new wheel with the shaft and clock spring and shimmy it into place, being careful to not move the clock spring behind it (align the wiring harness connector with the appropriate slot in the wheel. Once firmly seated, go ahead and reconnect the yellow main wiring harness.
11. Now for the steering wheel bolt. Use the same T50 from before and begin to thread it back in, making sure its not cross threaded. You can add some more medium strength thread locker, but I never have (the old thread locker schmoo provides enough resistance when it goes back together that I am confident with it). My C7’s steering wheel was just as tight when I took it off 2 years later as when I put it on. Using a 3/8” torque wrench, I tightened the bolt to 35 ft-lbs.
12. Ensure the heated steering wheel connector is tucked down into the bottom trim and the harness is out of the way. The airbag can now be reconnected. I connected the pink and purple first, they just pop right back on and automatically lock into place. The horn connector is next. After plugging in, press the red locking tab back into place. Return the horn into the wheel and check the sides of the wheel to ensure the bolts will align. Insert both bolts and finger tighten. Once both are in, tighten them in a similar manner as lug nuts. These don’t need to be gorilla tight either, just tight enough. Probably 20 ft-lbs. They weren’t crazy tight to begin with. Replace the trim panels that cover these bolts.
13. You are now ready to reconnect the battery. Attach and tighten the negative terminal. Return to the cab to check function of all buttons.
14. After disconnecting the battery, the dash will instruct you to lower and raise all the windows. Follow the prompts. Check all buttons are functioning properly. The heated wheel button will no longer operate, and I have not had any fault codes present themselves.
15. Your install should now be complete! Enjoy your new wheel!

Let me know if you have any questions if you ever try to do this yourself!

I have no plans to do this (I *like* my heated steering wheel, for one thing). I just appreciate a good MOP.

 

[DustinEarnhardt]

Excellent write-up!

I did look up their site and you're right, it does look like you can retain the heating feature now. The "Japan LED" thing is also pretty wild (though a bit much for my taste... but kudos to them on the creativity).

I'll keep my eye on this. I don't think I want to be the guinea pig on the heating option (because I love it that much and wouldn't want to lose it) but this is definitely on the "potential future mod" list.

 

[DZnutz]

Looks fantastic, I just hope the company makes those subtle changes to the wheel to make it a real plug and play operation with no trimming on a Blackwing.

 

[jsbwjm]

$900 for the heated version…tempting

Less so for me because I love the microsuede wheel/shifter that I optioned.
But that carbon fiber/blue stripe/perf’d leather esthetic is killer. Would match my blue calipers

 

[LongGrayLine16]

$900 for the heated version…tempting

Less so for me because I love the microsuede wheel/shifter that I optioned.
But that carbon fiber/blue stripe/perf’d leather esthetic is killer. Would match my blue calipers

You can get the sides to be alcantara/suede instead of perforated leather.

For ANYONE interested: DM @ttdcraft on instagram and tell them @lt4_blackwing sent you. They will give you a discounted price (not sure what exactly it is). I DO NOT get any type of kick back. Just trying to help the community.

 

[LongGrayLine16]

Looks fantastic, I just hope the company makes those subtle changes to the wheel to make it a real plug and play operation with no trimming on a Blackwing.

Initially I was hesitant to start trimming. But a brand new blade and slow steps of material removal was actually very easy. I did a lot of comparison between the OEM wheel and this one. Like playing that game where you compare two pictures and find the differences.

 

[DZnutz]

I sent them an email well over a week ago with no reply.

 

[LongGrayLine16]

I sent them an email well over a week ago with no reply.

I would direct message them through Instagram or Facebook. They have always been responsive to me during their business hours via those methods. Like I said mention I (@lt4_blackwing) sent you and they may give you a discount.

 

[V_G_M_3pedalonly]

wheel looks awesome, may be on the future list... tks for all the detail and the great writeup