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288 Miles and an engine failure

I’m thinking something to do with sparking or fueling. It didn’t stutter as I picked it up but continually got a little bit worse over the course of a few hours. They told me it could have been break in miles but then the CEL popped
I once had a cracked spark plug that did something similar. You could have a slight misfire but then as you drove it some more the misfire count recorded by the ECU increased to the point where it would throw a code. If it is a slight misfire you wouldn’t notice it much when on the throttle but it could stumble/misfire at lower RPM. Hopefully it is something simple like this.
 
I once had a cracked spark plug that did something similar. You could have a slight misfire but then as you drove it some more the misfire count recorded by the ECU increased to the point where it would throw a code. If it is a slight misfire you wouldn’t notice it much when on the throttle but it could stumble/misfire at lower RPM. Hopefully it is something simple like this

So the MAF was reading really rich. I’m hoping that it may be the sparkplugs just fouling up and that explains why it went from a slight stumble to a full blown stutter and misfires. But the question is why is it running rich.
 
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So the MAF was reading really rich. I’m hoping that it may be the sparkplugs just fouling up and that explains why it went from a slight stumble to a full blown stutter and misfires. But the question is why is it running rich.
I wonder if they did a hard ECU sweep. Meaning the ecu stored codes that are running the new engine the way it likely had the old one in a limp home mode which is usually pig rich.
 
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I wonder if they did a hard ECU sweep. Meaning the ecu stored codes that are running the new engine the way it likely had the old one in a limp home mode which is usually pig rich.
I mean the battery was disconnected for the longest time but there were definitely some things that were still remembered from the last ECU like the my mode settings
 
I mean the battery was disconnected for the longest time but there were definitely some things that were still remembered from the last ECU like the my mode settings
I dunno, the ECU could store events regardless of battery disconnect. All a theory.

I make cars/surface look good, an engineer I am not lol.
 
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I wonder if they did a hard ECU sweep. Meaning the ecu stored codes that are running the new engine the way it likely had the old one in a limp home mode which is usually pig rich.
Prob not and in some cases there are Throttle body alignment procedures to recalibrate.

These guys don't seem on their game. Why didn't they ensure everything was good before handing it back to the customer. Who the hell knows but if this does have alot of GM visibility I can foresee a new BW on order.
The technician had the cherry picker for my engine fall over onto him as he was pulling it from storage.
Mike Judge GIF by Idiocracy
 
That one pic with with wide open intake ports, greasy block of wood, and dead blow hammer all piled on top bothers me. If it's going to be more than a moment, I always cover vulnerable ports and openings.

Ain't gonna lie, this whole ordeal you're going through would really sour my spirit, but I'm an OCD nut job so YRMV.
 
That’s what they told me at the dealership. Their GM told me my situation has caused quite a stir at Cadillac.
There is no way in hell corporate GM is relaying this kind of info to the dealership. The people at the dealership probably started googling "LT4 engine failure," found this thread, and regurgitated this nonsense that was tongue in cheek.
 
There is no way in hell corporate GM is relaying this kind of info to the dealership. The people at the dealership probably started googling "LT4 engine failure," found this thread, and regurgitated this nonsense that was tongue in cheek.
If that is what happened...OMG too funny.
 
Spark plug wires. I guess they had some bad connectors or something but they came loose. Should have my car back tomorrow. At this point I'll start just beating on it and get all the kinks worked out.
Good luck with the whip, hopefully sooner than later!

As for the ECU, in most cases they can store codes way after the power is killed. My bud flashed his '13 GT500 then retuned the tune to stock and Ford knew actually when the ECU was flashed, time/date stamped.
 
There is no way in hell corporate GM is relaying this kind of info to the dealership. The people at the dealership probably started googling "LT4 engine failure," found this thread, and regurgitated this nonsense that was tongue in cheek.
So what you are saying is that we should all start posting about finding plenty of in stock 5BWs priced far below sticker and that dealerships everywhere are starting to do fire sales on them?
 
Got the car back. Not holding my breath til I make it at least past 288 miles on the new motor ;). All jokes aside feels like its finally running right. What's everyone's oil pressure sitting at typically. This new motor is at 39 PSI at idle, and my old one pre-bearing failure was at like 31-32.
 
Got the car back. Not holding my breath til I make it at least past 288 miles on the new motor ;). All jokes aside feels like its finally running right. What's everyone's oil pressure sitting at typically. This new motor is at 39 PSI at idle, and my old one pre-bearing failure was at like 31-32.
My oil pressure after warm up normal runs between 39 to 41 range.
Glad you got it back to start to enjoy again.
 
Got the car back. Not holding my breath til I make it at least past 288 miles on the new motor ;). All jokes aside feels like its finally running right. What's everyone's oil pressure sitting at typically. This new motor is at 39 PSI at idle, and my old one pre-bearing failure was at like 31-32.
Did you get any news on compensation?
 
Got the car back. Not holding my breath til I make it at least past 288 miles on the new motor ;). All jokes aside feels like its finally running right. What's everyone's oil pressure sitting at typically. This new motor is at 39 PSI at idle, and my old one pre-bearing failure was at like 31-32.
Was 31-32psi when fully warmed up? On the ZL1 LT4 with 0W-40 and standard PF64 filter the hot idle was around 35 psi, cold idle was around 39-40psi. AT WOT it was typically around 60-70psi.

There was a issue with oil pumps on the 2017 and 2018s where they would start to fail and the oil pressure gauge would start to dip into the 20s, you knew were on borrowed time when that happened.
 
Was 31-32psi when fully warmed up? On the ZL1 LT4 with 0W-40 and standard PF64 filter the hot idle was around 35 psi, cold idle was around 39-40psi. AT WOT it was typically around 60-70psi.

There was a issue with oil pumps on the 2017 and 2018s where they would start to fail and the oil pressure gauge would start to dip into the 20s, you knew were on borrowed time when that happened.
I had a 2017 ZL1 and mine fully warmed would run between 37 to 38 psi at idle. Cold for mine at idle was 40 to 41 psi and wide open warmed up would run 58 to 61 psi for me. I put around 21k miles before trading and got lucky with no failure for me.

My 5BW running at 75mph runs 48 to 49psi. Of course the error accuracy of our gauges are probably +/- 1 to 2 psi
 
I had a 2017 ZL1 and mine fully warmed would run between 37 to 38 psi at idle. Cold for mine at idle was 40 to 41 psi and wide open warmed up would run 58 to 61 psi for me. I put around 21k miles before trading and got lucky with no failure for me.

My 5BW running at 75mph runs 48 to 49psi. Of course the error accuracy of our gauges are probably +/- 1 to 2 ps

How many miles are on your car now and is it a 6MT or 10AT. My car is basically identical to yours in terms of oil pressures at idle. I’ll keep an eye on my 75 mph oil psi but in 6th gear it’s barely at 2k rpm and I think it sits at like 43-45 depending on load.

Knock on wood but my new motor did make it over the 288 mile mark on my last trip home just now. Hopefully I can just put this all behind me. No news on compensation yet mr save the manual.
 

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