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  1. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuna View Post
    My CTS V has the electric parking brake - never thought about doing a "hand brake" turn so that's not an issue.
    The EPB can be used to keep the car on a hill and not worry about rolling backward between releasing the brakes and getting the clutch out - it automatically releases when the clutch is released. That's come in handy a few times. Then again my V is a stick shift. Probably not an issue with the auto tranny.
    My comment about hand brake turns was in ghest. What I don't like about the eP-brake is all the flexibility of a manual P-brake is not available. When you're moving the car around the shop, you can't actuate the PB unless you have the fob get in the car and turn it on. You can't "modulate" the setting. Moving the finger switch is an unnatural act for most drivers. Lastely, who NEEDS an eP-brake? No one. That decision was made by geeky engineering and a marketing minion. Makes the car more expensive and, as the car gets high-mileage, more expensive to service.

    My manual says that battery power is required to set and release the EPB. Sounds like once set, if the battery dies, the EPB is still set and will not release.
    As I understand it, if the battery is very low or dead, you cannot change the state of the eP-brake except by attempting to drive the car forward which, I understand will release the brake.

    It does mention using chocks on the rear tires if EPB is not functioning. That would mean knowing the battery is already dead or the EPB isn't working and needs to see the dealer. I'll have to remember that if I every park the car on a hill with a dead battery.
    To me, in the 21st century, it's absolutely asinine that there is any condition a car could be in where you have to roll it around with a set of chocks in one hand. I'm going to have to leave a set of chocks in the trunk. It's techo-geekery run amok. Like pushbutton start, a feature which has already killed several elderly people around the U.S. Admittedly, PB start is not restricted to just GM vehicles.

    In another dumb-assed decision, there is no way to read battery voltage unless you turn on the ign. and select battery voltage for display on the DIC or....measure the voltage with a DMM.

    Question for you: Is the cold turbo rattle a real problem or just noise that doesn't hurt anything?
    Good question, the answer to which, at least right now, is unknown to me. I'm attempting to find out and the answer to that question will play into my decision on having it fixed or not. My guess is the rattle is just an annoyance but I'm really not sure. I'm also not sure, yet, how to find out the answer, but I'm researching. I will add that, the rattle is pretty noticeable under certain conditions and, with my engine, it does not occur only when the engine is cold. It's louder then the engine is warming up, but the noise is present most of the time when the engine is not on boost...I think it's actually when the waste gates are full open.

    Today....it's back to Goleta from Henderson, through thunderstorms in southern Nevada and far southeastern California, and then over the stretch of I-5 which was closed after the huge rainstorm then reopened last night.
    Hib Halverson
    I'net Tech Writer
    2Vs+3Zs

  2. #92
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    While I agree with you about the parking brake, I completely disagree about push button start, which has become a "must have" for me.

  3. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~tc~ View Post
    (snip), I completely disagree about push button start, which has become a "must have" for me.
    And, no doubt, there are many who share your feelings. I realize I'm in a minority with my dislike of pushbutton start, but I'll take key switches any day!

    I think a lot of old people who are also not "car people" would feel the same way. I also think the families of the people who've died of CO poisoning because they get out of cars, don't hear the engines, and leave them running in the garage long enough to fill the whole house with fatal levels of CO, would also not care for them much.

  4. #94
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    Made the run back to Goleta from Henderson NV. All the stormy weather was, for the most part, gone.

    It was a nice day for a drive across the desert.

    I was cruising along at about 78 when a Toyota Corolla blew by me at about 90. Me must have been a 3/4 throttle for crissakes. I decided to let him be the rabbit and I'd tag along at the same speed about an ⅛-mile back watching my Valentine. It was like a double-redundant, anti-CHP device. He was running so fast and didn't have a radar warning, so the CHP would get him first and, with my Valentine going off, I'd get slowed in more than enough time.

    It was interesting passing in and out of the fast lane with the rest of traffic moving at 80.

    Got "Pearl the BMW Buster" up to 130 for a brief period. While I can feel a little vibration somewhere at 75-85, above that, it's smooth and quiet at that speed in 8th gear.
    Last edited by Hib Halverson; 12-11-2015 at 10:20 PM.
    Hib Halverson
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    2Vs+3Zs

  5. #95
    Senior Member Tuna's Avatar
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    I wonder if the cold turbo rattle is just a waste gate rattle.
    Is this an issue with the V-Sport / Vsport cars as well or just the ATS V?

    All three of my cars are keyless. Guess we've gotten accustomed to them and expect them. The 2011 V has a twist start knob like it had a key in it but the key is not required. The ATS and Corvette are true push buttons.
    I've changed the batteries in the FOBs at the first hint that the range is reducing and I make sure each car gets a new battery every 3 years.
    So far, so good.

    I got to thinking about handbrake turns and remembered that the last time I did that was with a VW Beetle modified with left and right hand brake handles back in the '70s. That came in real handy with playing off road in the mud in Louisiana. Don't do that off road stuff any more.

    I also haven't done much car repair work in a very long time and can't appreciate any issues that may occur due to lack of a manual "hand or foot" brake.

    Live Long and Prosper!

    Tuna
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  6. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuna View Post
    I wonder if the cold turbo rattle is just a waste gate rattle.
    Is this an issue with the V-Sport / Vsport cars as well or just the ATS V?
    It affects ATS-V and CTS-V Sport, i.e.: the LF3 and LF4 engines.

    (snip)Live Long and Prosper!

    Well...I'll take the prosper part. As for living long...that's ok as long as I'm still there mentally. If I'm sitting in a wheel chair, drooling, while trying to remember my name, shoot me.
    Hib Halverson
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    2Vs+3Zs

  7. #97
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    So...I was poking around under the hood and around the front end during a little inspection after my trip over to Henderson.

    I got to thinking about the charge air cooler radiators which are down low, one on each side of the front end. They are positioned such that, at high speed, they'll pick up lots of weeds, bugs and road trash. If they get clogged with insect guts and other stuff, I wonder how you clean them?

    Oh and I guess most of the "break-in period" is done with my LF4. In the first 1000 miles it burned -qt oil. In the second 1000 miles it used no oil.

  8. #98
    Senior Member Tuna's Avatar
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    '11 V Wagon, ( '13 427 Vette & '14 ATS)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hib Halverson View Post
    Well...I'll take the prosper part. As for living long...that's ok as long as I'm still there mentally. If I'm sitting in a wheel chair, drooling, while trying to remember my name, shoot me.
    I'm with you there and my wife knows where my guns are.

    Great news on oil consumption also. Have you figured out how to clean the intercooler radiators yet?
    Tuna
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  9. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuna View Post
    I'm with you there and my wife knows where my guns are.
    Mine, too.

    Great news on oil consumption also. Have you figured out how to clean the intercooler radiators yet?
    Yep. Had a look at that situation last night. If you turn the front wheels to full lock, when the tire is turned all the way in, you can see a grating which is the charge air cooler radiator exhaust outlet. I haven't done it yet, but I suspect that either shop air pressure or even a garden hose stream through that grating will "blow" backwards though the radiator and force dirt, insects and other stuff out the front of the radiator.

    Also, I had a short email exchange with the Communications representative at GM Powertrain, Tom Read. After logging data from my engine and never seeing more than 15-psi boost and reading on other forums that people have run on chassis dynos and had only 15-psi, I asked him about the claim of 18-psi boost in some GMPT news releases.

    He stated:
    The compressors are capable of 18 psi of boost pressure, but this is not necessarily observed under standard operating conditions and by the instrument panel. The boost pressure can vary based on barometric pressure and ambient temperature. It's also important to note that the reported delta pressure on the DIC is reduced by the pressure drop across the intercooler and throttle body.
    Last edited by Hib Halverson; 10-19-2015 at 11:00 AM.

  10. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hib Halverson View Post
    And, no doubt, there are many who share your feelings. I realize I'm in a minority with my dislike of pushbutton start, but I'll take key switches any day!

    I think a lot of old people who are also not "car people" would feel the same way. I also think the families of the people who've died of CO poisoning because they get out of cars, don't hear the engines, and leave them running in the garage long enough to fill the whole house with fatal levels of CO, would also not care for them much.
    If one can forget to push the button, one can forget to turn the key ... I wonder how many cases of that never made the news... Frankly, I wonder if people who can't remember to turn the car off need to be driving in the first place ...

  11. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by ~tc~ View Post
    If one can forget to push the button, one can forget to turn the key ... I wonder how many cases of that never made the news... Frankly, I wonder if people who can't remember to turn the car off need to be driving in the first place ...
    I get it about people who can't remember to turn off the car, but...the other side of that is for over 50 years, people were used to putting their keys in the ignition and leaving them there for the duration of the drive then having to shut the car off to get the keys out. I know there were really old cars you could start then remove the key while they were running but that ended in, I believe 1964 for GM.

    Also, we don't NEED push button start just like we don't NEED an electric parking brake. Yeah, some make like it, but it's unnecessary. It's just more evidence that marketing weenies and techno-geeks are making choices for us.

    Finally, back to the issue of people who can't remember to turn off push-button-start-cars shouldn't be driving...

    You might feel differently about that if you were 65+ years old and experiencing some hearing loss. My guess is the unfamiliarity of push-button-start combined with partial hearing loss might have been at the crux of the problem...well, also, tightly fitting windows in their house, too.

  12. #102
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    Default and now for something completely different

    If enough geezers forget to push the start button to shut down when done driving, the NHTSB will probably mandate an
    interlock that will lock the doors until you shut the engine down. Think I'm kidding? The fed gov nannies never sleep.

    Damn the start button and electric park brake ... my Acura TSX had the PB lever in the middle of the console and it was the best assist grab for getting in and out of the car. And the system of interlocks, door handles and start button in my C6 Corvette baffle the mind - just because the engineers could doesn't mean they should have. YMMV.

    Glenn

  13. #103
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    I'm starting to get a picture of why the very first "tuners" who've worked on an ATS-V might be seeing some significant increases.

    It's starting to look like GM "left some on the table" calibration-wise.

    For one thing, in the data logging I've done, in three WOT acceleration tests in 3rd gear up to 6300 rpm, when the engine computer is in "power enrichment" (PE) mode, I saw the "commanded EQ ratio" (which is sort of like the air-fuel ratio) hovering at 0.909-lambda which is pretty lean. If the car is running on pump gas with no ethanol in it, the stoichiometric AFR is about 14.68:1. At 0.909-lambda, that's 13.3:1 which is pretty darn lean. Why that is so lean is up for speculation, but reduced carbon emissions might be one reason. So, if a calibrator was to add some fuel in PE such that the commanded EQR was down around 0.87-0.86, there might be some power there.

    Also, at max boost and high rpm, the spark timing is retarded quite a bit, as low as 8. There might be some power there, too, but there'd also be big problems with knock retard if you were running pump gas so, the only way to run the engine with more spark and minimal KR would be on 100-oct. unleaded racing gas which...for most people, is not very practical nor cost effective.

    Another idea might be to improve the efficiency of the charge air cooler. You could do that by increasing the size of the heat exchangers but that would not be easy. You could jury-rig a water spray system for the two radiators. You also could decrease or even eliminate the use of antifreeze in the separate cooling system used by the charge air coolers. Water is a better coolant than a 50/50 mix of water/antifreeze. To do that requires special equipment because, to fill the charge air cooler system you have to apply a vacuum to the system, first. Obviously, if you park the car overnight or store the car in a place where it gets below freezing you can only reduced antifreeze to a level of freeze-protection you need.

    Fooling with the boost limit might gain a bit but the turbos can only make 18-psi which is just a few psi more than what most people are seeeing now. If you increase boost you also need to either increase the performance of the charge air coolers or increase the octane of the gas.

    Down pipes without cats would pay off in a big way I suspect.

    Some other things I've noticed...

    Now that I can read trans temperature, the 8-speed auto must have a gynormous cooler as I've yet to see trans. temp over 150F.

    Next thing to do to "Pearl the Bimmer Buster" is to install a clear bra on the front end. I'm considering XPEL installed by Transhine Auto Detailing in Whittier California for the job.

    I'd also like to put in some colder spark plugs but, looking at all the stuff on top of the engine's cam covers, I'm thinking plug changes on the LF4 are a lot of work.

    Some people have asked if I'm going to change the exhaust on the car. I haven't decided, yet. My experience with dual-mode exhausts on C6 Vettes has been that few, if any, aftermarket exhaust makers make a system which leaves the bypass valves intact and operational. If the aftermarket goes that route with the ATS-V, I probably will not go aftermarket with exhaust.
    Last edited by Hib Halverson; 12-06-2015 at 11:30 PM.

  14. #104
    Junior Member Djason's Avatar
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    Yep agree Hal...looks like quite a bit is left on the table from the stock tune not to mention the horrible angles and bottle necking of the stock cats and exhaust.

    Would love to see the Titanium Akrapovic system for the ATS-V. Doubt they will do it but I'm extremely happy with the workmanship and materials used for the system on my Z06. Can literally pick one side up with a finger. And yes it keeps the dual-mode valves. You have to swap your actuators but the mounting and valves are part of the mufflers.




    Fully installed with their smallest (115mm) tips. The sound is spot on.

    Last edited by Djason; 10-23-2015 at 03:19 PM.

  15. #105
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    Default A Little-V Blog: The ATS-V purchase and ownership experience

    Lowering the air/fuel will not make more power. Max power is made at stoich. Want to make more power - need more air to burn more fuel, or increase the compression ratio - simple as that.

    Richening the mixture MAY allow for increased boost or timing due to lower EGT, and if so, that would generate more power.

    The turbos are certainly capable of a lot more than 18 psi, just keep the waste gates shut. The issue is how much boost can the head take before blowing the gasket.

    For all Cadillac's talk about gram phobia, they sure left a lot of weight on the table - the Ti exhaust is a great example.
    Last edited by ~tc~; 10-21-2015 at 10:14 PM.

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